The Heybridge Railway, 1889 to 1913

RichardG

Western Thunderer
I found that Ronseal "Antique Pine" over a sand coloured base was a perfect match for genuine samples of GER, as well as GWR, (two shades) L&BR/LSWR/SR compartment interiors.
Peter this is a very timely post of yours! It will be difficult to redo what I have done on this LT&SR horsebox, but my saloon coach is still unpainted after more than two years.


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I have the D&S kit to build one of these. This may well be my only GER passenger-carrying stock so the Sandringham Hotel can go in here nicely. This model was at the Middy on Easter Sunday.
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
. . .

The varnished wood effect is Ronseal teak-coloured varnish brushed over Tamiya XF-15 "Flat Flesh". I did some test patches of the varnish over different underlying paint colours and this is the only one I liked. The Tamiya version of flesh is like a peach colour, the others e.g. Vallejo are paler and more yellowy. There are five really thin coats of the varnish, I painted them on as slowly and carefully as I could manage and the streaks appeared naturally as it dried.

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I wonder if many other members of WT can own up to having one of those Humbrol airbrushes? The screw thread takes a jar of Tamiya acrylic. The only adjustment is for the paint flow (turning the nozzle up and down) and how far the paint flies through the air (a regulator valve on the airline).

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Operation is a bit like a fire hose but it works for me. I discharged half a jar of Tamiya ‘flat flesh’ onto the body in five passes, one after another without stopping so the paint was reasonably wet all the way through but didn’t run.

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I gave the underframe a similar treatment and got more overspray than I ever imagined could get through my masking. I have a dual-action airbrush and I am thinking, the time has come to learn how to use it. I want something more controllable.

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I worked up the wheels while the overspray cured and then repainted the floor with a brush.

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Pencil lines on the body to try to represent features of the wood. The lines on the horizontal planking produced a better effect, so I missed out the lines on the flat panels on the second side.

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Finally, the main event. This is three really thin coats of Ronseal ‘teak’ varnish, brushed on in the direction of the imaginary grain.

This is satin varnish and its appearance varies according to the lighting. I think the teak effect is softer and more realistic in daylight than it looks under the flash here. Adding more coats will make the sides darker (like the inside of the compartment) so I will stop here and move on to the detail parts. The finish looks a bit too pale to me so I am adding some more layers.
 
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Phil O

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,

I had one of those, years ago when they 1st came out, I ran it on cans of aerosol, I couldn't afford a compressor.

Now I have a selection of air brushes and a suitable compressor.
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,

I had one of those, years ago when they 1st came out, I ran it on cans of aerosol, I couldn't afford a compressor.

Now I have a selection of air brushes and a suitable compressor.

My parents gave me one when I was in my teens. I too couldn't afford a compressor, and the cans of air were expensive, so I had the "car tyre adaptor". You pumped up a spare tyre and connected it to the airbrush. The way I remember things, you got half a minute with too much pressure, half a minute about right, and another half minute to try to finish the job off!

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This is the only model I still have from those days, and painted using that airbrush. I think eventually the airbrush was given away. I bought its replacement a few years ago, it is a very useful tool but a bit limited in its application. The overspray is always huge.

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I have my notes from the build, this would have been around 1979 or 1980. A can of primer in a pound shop still costs much the same!
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
I did an image search for “teak railway carriage” and decided my efforts on the horsebox were a bit wishy-washy. So I added more varnish to build up the effect.

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I have ended up with four coats of varnish over the whole body, plus a fifth coat in a few places. Now I have a model which looks better in photos than it does in real life, which is a personal first.

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One more look at the sound module.

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I will never have the manual dexterity to make the buffers sprung using the steel wire supplied in the kit. Indeed my smallest pliers can barely go into the space available. So I have fixed the buffer shanks and heads in place with glue.

The couplings (also from the kit) are sprung, in case I want to swap them out for something else. These are by Premier Components and I have crimped the ends of the screw threads to stop them undoing themselves. Thank you @simond for this tip.

I have omitted the Westinghouse brake hoses. Partly because I think they will get in the way during operating, partly because I don’t know where they should go (left or right of the coupling hooks), and partly because I wonder if there should be a vacuum through pipe as well. It is a bit daft to do something I don’t want and which may turn out to be wrong.

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Charlie waits, bemused. The crew of 'Blackwater' need to set back along the platform, to reach some space to drop the door.

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Charlie was painted by Dan at Tunnel Lane Models.

( Continuity check: model turned for compositional reasons )

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The transfers and glazing can come another day. I am very glad I built this model, it brings a splash of colour to the railway.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Richard,

I'm surprised you have space difficulties with buffers. This is my preferred approach when I don’t have sprung kit buffers;

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The grey caps are 3DP but could easily be made from K&S brass tube, the wire is 0.5mm piano wire. The coupling is a cut-down Premier one with an extra hole.

The caps are superglued to the buffer stems, I glue them on, and as soon as it’s stuck, I oil the stem and buffer guide to prevent any undesired sticking.

I admit that I did glue the lead in after fitting the buffers.

Whether springing is worthwhile is another kettle of fish!
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
I'm surprised you have space difficulties with buffers.

The difficulty is with access as well as space.

I left the buffer heads until the end out of habit and as implied by the instructions. I could have sprung them if I had fitted them before adding the brake hangers, perhaps even before adding the axle guards.

This would have entailed adding the couplings at the same time. The kit would be easier to build if the entire headstocks were a detachable subassembly.
 
A summary of the wagons so far

RichardG

Western Thunderer
Today is my third anniversary on WT. The Heybridge Railway has been underway a bit longer, since the autumn of 2021. I have promised myself a break until next weekend (Kempton) in which to decide what to do next.

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The wagons belonging to the railway are pretty much all there. Three for customer’s freight and four for service use. This is about the minimum I can get away with.

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The collection of foreign wagons is looking balanced too. The unpainted van is GER, so there are five GER and seven from further afield. These are a mixture of builds by me and others, plus the Minerva mink. The NER Lomac is only useful for the dismantling of the railway in 1913.

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Conversely the PO wagons are still struggling. Most of these are a fiction in one way or another. I am much happier with my own inventions than those devised by the large manufacturers. Certainly the compact tar wagon will stay, but it would be good to replace some of the others with models of real wagons. Eventually, as I find suitable kits and models.

The main omission is something belonging to E H Bentall, and of course these will be fictional too. I bought the Chas Roberts demonstrator (Tower Models) as a quick fix but it doesn’t quite work. I have some plastic kits to do the Bentall wagons, but I am having a bit of a Brass Phase at the moment and I want to try out my RSU again. Kempton may of course change things again!

Thank you of course to everyone for your continued support. This and the facility to share my efforts on WT does help to drive me along :)
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
Strictly, 3 years and 3 days.... unless you are working on 366 days per year.
Three years since I made my first post. I don't count the three days before this, working up the confidence to write something. Now I probably write too much!

Ought "drive me along" be written as "drive me towards S7"?
No. WT has given me awareness of the broad gauge, and I do hope I can try it out one day. But at the moment I see it as something for a small, self-contained project. This may change of course but I do like being able to take my trains to NEEGOG and other 32mm gauge tracks. There is a simple pleasure in watching the trains go by. A continuous run will be a struggle in any gauge at home.
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
I'm sure you'll get away with it in FS :D
Coincidentally this is a very recent acquisition:

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Recommended reading and a good reference source.

"Landscapes under the Luggage Rack" by Greg Norden is a beautiful book with plenty of narrative to explain the pictures and the artists behind them. My copy has one pencil annotation from a previous reader! On page 31, the locomotive crossing the Ouse at York might be an A3. Not a D49.

Something to save up until November when it is too cold and dark to be outdoors.
 
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