The Heybridge Railway, 1889 to 1913

[RichardG]

The spoils of Kempton.

I sold two RTR wagons on the bring and buy, and since the last show here I have completed three kits. So by buying four kits and a built model, I am still arithmetically in balance

The highlights are the built LSWR wagon, bought for less than the cost of its wheels and buffers; the unidentified wagon; and a really bored-looking figure to represent the groom for the horse box.

I saw a few WT'ers. There was an alcove with two or three pro model makers, I guess this is the real naughty step? I have never enjoyed a show quite as much as this one.

 

[simond]

Good to see you yesterday, Richard.

It was a great show, I can’t claim to remain in any kind of balance, but did come home with a nicely built WEP Mica, for about the price of the kit. I don’t need more kits…

 

[Hayfield1]

Richard

Good to see you again, sorry too bust to chat. Looks like you had a good haul of items

John

 

[RichardG]

Looks like you had a good haul of items

Yes a good haul. And also, the show has let me see better where my light railway project fits into the larger hobby. I mean, there are swathes of 7mm modelling like express passenger trains and the traction to haul them, which put a sense of proportion on my own efforts. Space constraints at home mean I cannot accommodate let alone enjoy anything with more than six wheels (be it loco coach or wagon) so I am fortunate to get so much pleasure from a light railway theme.

There were I think 123 independent railway companies though some had already merged by the supposed time of the Heybridge Railway. Even if I draw a line at sensible quantities of wagons and so on owned by the railway and visiting from the GER, there is a huge potential for infrequent and even one-off visitors from other railways. I was talking with a modeller who had seen a toy soldier painted and crated up as a statue and put onto a wagon. I would never have thought of this, even though I put a 00 figure as a statue on an H0 layout! All I need is enough imagination to dream up plausible wagonloads.

View attachment 229835
I bought this North Staffordshire Railway wagon because the buffers appealed and the model seemed nicely-finished. In my innocence, I bought a wagon where the load of ballast was an integral part of the model . . . I want it to be able to carry something else . . .

. . .

Shows like Kempton showcase parts I vaguely knew of but didn't have the confidence to buy online, like these barrels from Monks Gate. These are 3D prints so they don't have the seams of the injection-moulded ones. They can be beer from the Midlands for the Old Ship and hostelries in Heybridge itself.

I bought the NSR wagon at Kempton a year ago and with a rock-solid load of ballast inside it, so it is nice to call it finished. Barrels painted by Monk's Gate.

 

[Osgood]

I don't know, RTR barrels - I mean, whatever next?

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

RTR barrels

Shouldn't it be RTROT barrels - Ready To Roll Out The barrels?

 

[RichardG]

I don't know, RTR barrels - I mean, whatever next?

Perhaps, “ready to restore”?


I found this rather lovely but neglected wagon at Kempton on Saturday, within the Epson and Ewell MRC estate sale. The model was built by Douglas Thomas.


The model seems to have been stored in a wet place.


Possibly in standing water.


Wheel cleaning was in stages:
- Chemical cleaning using Birchwood Casey's ‘Blue and Rust Remover’
- Abrasive work with wet and dry paper used wet
- Polish with a small flap wheel
- Chemical bluing using Birchwood Casey’s ‘Perma Blue’ and then buffing


The blob of glue(?) inside the brake guide is a clever touch. It makes the brake guide really sturdy.


A little repainting on the floor and to hide minor chips.

The wagon sits flat on the track and runs well.

This was the heaviest rusting I have tried to remove from Slater’s wheels. There are a few dark spot marks I couldn’t shift but these have vanished under the bluing.

 

[Osgood]

Those Monks Gate barrels are very nice.
You should get some builders (and rebuild?) plates of your own.

 

[Hayfield1]

Richard

Please could you elaborate slightly on both (or is it one of the same) Birchwood Casey products please

John

 

[RichardG]

Please could you elaborate slightly on both (or is it one of the same) Birchwood Casey products please

Of course!

The Birchwood Casey products are of USA origin and marketed for the care and maintenance of steel gun parts. In practice, they are also useful for the steel parts of Slater's wheels, rims and axles.

I bought a set of three chemicals, this came with some fine wire wool too.

• The Blue and Rust Remover is a proprietary blend of sulphuric acid, oxalic acid and phosphoric acid. I apply it with a cotton bud and then rinse with a copious quantity of water.
  
  
• The Cleaner-Degreaser is another proprietary mix and claims to be the safe and easy way to clean metal. I don't use this very much because there is usually something else e.g. meths or acetone to hand.
  
  
• The Perma Blue is a chemical for doing cold bluing on steel. It reacts with the metal to form a layer of oxidisation on the surface, and this helps to stop new rust forming. It is quite a controllable product; you just leave it on the metal until you get the finish and colour you want, and then rinse away with water. The oxide is electrically conductive. You can achieve better protection by adding a layer of oil afterwards, this is sensible if the model is going into store for a while.

The Perma Blue will darken some rail too which may be useful e.g. check rails, but it is difficult to use on the layout because of the need to rinse with water. If you don't rinse it properly, it proceeds to encourage the growth of rust. The product only works on raw steel, it doesn't help to darken cheap and cheerful wheels with plated tyres.

These are quite nasty chemicals, especially the rust remover and the bluing. Definitely wash hands after use, maybe wear gloves too.

 

[chigley]

bc also do a super blue

 

[simond]

and for brass

 

[RichardG]

I think the railway will find a simple trolley useful for tools or perhaps a stationary engine.


This kit is for a Portland stone quarry block wagon. It is my first kit by ABS Models.


Simplicity means no instructions.


Initial assembly with epoxy glue.

The kit axles are a soft wire coated with copper and I found them difficult to work with, so I am using brass instead.


The bearing clamps fell off too easily so I soldered them on, though the solder hardly shows now. I added the brass plate to neaten things up and make a space for a label.


Adrian Swain was certainly a master caster . . . I haven’t done any cleaning-up here except to dress some of the sharpest edges.

The idea was to make a simple static model for display. I turned the wheels to a better profile but a piece of flange fell off. Then it dawned on me, I could never leave the model on the track unless I was running a battery loco. So I am now waiting for some 00 wheels, see if I can make a working model.

 

[RichardG]

The 00 wheels have arrived so I know what axle size they need. I have spoilt my first three goes at making their axles.

The little boy next door gave me this for my birthday, It has its wheels and it has been painted, and he is only three years old. So if he can do it so can I and I must persevere. I think it is wonderful how he has put all this work into something he has given away to someone.

 

[Osgood]

Just a thought re. ABS trolley - plastic rod for the axles and thin insulating washers between between wheel and axle bearing would allow use of those lovely wheels (I know - too late now).

 

[RichardG]

Just a thought re. ABS trolley - plastic rod for the axles and thin insulating washers between between wheel and axle bearing would allow use of those lovely wheels (I know - too late now).

Tony this is a perfectly good thought but I think the white metal wheels will wear out quickly.


My fourth go at an axle appears to be a success. It only took me an hour and a half, starting from a decking screw. Not much mild steel stock to hand. The axle resembles a Slater's one but I have put the shoulders further apart to work with the thinner 00 wheels.

The 00 wheels are commendably thin when viewed in a 7mm scale context, about the same as a S7 wheel. The flanges are usefully thin too. Nevertheless, the ABS model is to scale, and I am struggling to find free space to allow running on my 31.5 as well as 32 mm gauge tracks. So I will be grateful for an air gap to let the wheels go round and round. There is no room for any washers (except possibly mylar ones?), indeed I am taking the hub bosses off the backs of the wheels.

The idea is to cut out alternate spokes to make 5-spoke wheels.

 

[Hayfield1]

Richard

What size wheels are these, the chances are I may have some older Romford wheel sets which are a tad coarser. At least I could measure a set and see how they may differ

John

 

[RichardG]

What size wheels are these, the chances are I may have some older Romford wheel sets which are a tad coarser. At least I could measure a set and see how they may differ

The Hornby wheels are 12 mm diameter. A 13 mm wheel would look better, 14 mm is too big. A slightly broader tread would be good. Having 10 spokes is useful so I can make a 5-spoke wheel.

 

[Hayfield1]

Richard

Older Romford wheels 10 spoke 12mm. 14mm over flanges. 2.5mm wide. Thought I had some coarser wheels, must have sold them off .

Happy for you to come round and go through them

John

 

[RichardG]

. . . the ABS model is to scale, and I am struggling to find free space to allow running on my 31.5 as well as 32 mm gauge tracks. So I will be grateful for an air gap to let the wheels go round and round.

I couldn’t face working up a second decking screw so I had a go with some Meccano axles. I broke three when I tried to reduce them below 1.7 mm. I got fed up with making 2.5 mm rod so I went back to the brass (already the right diameter) and made two new axles at the first attempt. So I have had a go at making eight axles in all, and ended up with two and a spare.


The diameter of each end is unique (they vary by a few thou) so each wheel hub got opened out to match. Hence the marks on the axles to allow fairly foolproof disassembly and reassembly.

The shoulder of the axle shows the amount of space I had to spare for running on 0-MF tracks. With a fairly thin wheel flange, the B2Bs are 29.7 mm. There isn't really any room to play with.


I have persevered with the Hornby wheels too. In case you don’t know, these are a bit cheap and cheerful - brass tyres on plastic centres, with shiny plating on the brass to give a sort of chrome effect. A positive is they have a part number (X8084) so they can be had without rummaging through boxes at swapmeets.


The initial track test for all of my wagons is to propel the model at maximum speed over every track in both directions; and then reverse the model and repeat. A pass is achieved if the wheels stay on the track.

The test for this wagon has been made easier by ‘Lady Marion’ being my only loco with suitable buffing gear, and her maximum speed is about a scale 15mph. Nevertheless, the test was a complete success and I think cheering to see for a model with a wheelbase less than the track gauge.


The wagon weighs 130 grams, which should help its stability. I can sort out some coupling chains when I do the painting.