Peter,
One point to note on the 82xxx tanks is the cab footsteps. While those on the off side bend in under the cab, those on the near side run down vertically, as shown in the attached photograph of 82002 (copyright unknown).
Ian
Hi Ian,
I completely overlooked the difference in the cab steps. I must be getting less observant in my old age! I assumed that they were originally built with the turn in at the top on both sides and some received straight steps on both sides later on. I will correct it . Many thanks.
A bit odd at first glance. I imagine that the lower part of the backing plate and the steps themselves are the same distance from the loco centreline. Vertical on the near side (as normal) but, presumably, cranked out at the top on the firemans side to clear the injector pipework?
Dave.
I would agree. The straight steps are set inboard of the lower edge of the cab and the injector pipework loops up behind step plate on the other side, which precludes mounting the step plate in the same place as the left hand sid Hence it is mounted further out and cranked inward under the pipes, no doubt to clear platform edges and remain within the loading gauge.
Mike, replacing the valve guided castings is an option but I decided to see what I could make them.
Regarding the commdnts on the conn rods and coupling rods, point taken.
Brian, many thanks for the images. Sad to see the class 3s in such run down conditions.
Having removed the conn rod to add the missing overlay to the boss, I decided to drill some holes in the top hat bush to allow easier tightening and loosening while I'm setting up the valve gear, although its prob6time I added the return crank.
Although I'd removed the flats from the 8BA spacer which improved the appearance, as Paul suggested, nickel silver would look better. The problem was, what to make it from. I dug out my box of spare parts accumulated over ten years of collecting drawing instruments and found this leg extension from a Riefler compass. It's about 4 inches long and is hollow at the slotted end to a depth of about 3/4 inch to accept the peg of what ever attachment you are using (needle, pen or pencil). It is about 5mm in diameter so just about right to make a new spacer.
After sawing off the hollow section, squaring up the end and drilling out 2.5mm on the lathe, I sawed off two circles about 2mm wide then sanded to size. Much better than the brass one and it gives the impression that the centre boss on the coupling rod and inner face of the conn rod are wider than they actually are.
To thicken the fork end of the rear coupling rod and cover the unsightly etched groove on the outer face, I made an "overlay" from the another compass leg extension after first turning it down to match the fork diameter. I then drilled out the end to clear 12 BA before sawing off 2 circles and sanding to size as before.
Here's the results. I also used a 14BA nut drilled and tapped 12BA to retain the screw. I used a 12BA screw as the etched holes were too large for 14BA, but a 12BA nut is too large in appearance.
The rods are no longer parallel but it's not noticeable from normal viewing angles and it still runs smoothly.
This closer view was taken before I'd thickened the fork end boss and replaced the 12BA nut.
I'm leaving the front and rear bosses on the coupling rods as they are. The front one matches the prototype which is of reduced thickness for clearance purposes behind the the crosshead. If I thicken the rear ones I'll have to replace the the screws and the top hat bushes so I'm living with it as is.
Some adjustment of the cylinder angle was possible so the conn rods clear the slide bars equally at tdc and bdc and I've now added the motion brackets, but the left hand footstep has still to be modified. Oh, and I've also removed the front valve covers, cut about 1.5mm off the rear and refitted. These were too long and the front edge was too close to the drop plate. I've had to replace the tail rods as they were now too short after having cut them back to clear the drop plate when the valve covers were the original length.
Without knowing the specific details of the class that certainly seems to be the impression I get. The centre line through the cylinder bores I would typically line up close to the axle centre line of the wheels they are driving. It maybe the photo is misleading but they do look a little too high in the alignment.
Adrian, if you look at this image posted above by Paul Tomlinson, I dont agree that the cylinders are too high. They are very tight against the hanging plate as on the prototype. By the way look at all the leaks in the side tank, a problem for which the class was prone. Hope the new build guys have taken this into account and taken steps to prevent it on 82045!
Cheers,
Peter