Transport Age (Scorpio) 7mm BR Standard 3MT tank

[P A D]

Why not go for the MOK buffers. About the best for the standards.

Nick

True. However, MOK doesn't offer them for sale on the website and the Invertrain ones will pass muster when painted.

I've been making steady if slow progress on the under pinnings. I bent one of the steps once too often so decided it was time to strengthen them up. The one under the cab that has been straightened has received a backing plate.


On the other side I've added a simple U bracket from 0.9mm NS rod.


At the front I've added a single length of NS rod to the rear edge along with a diagonal stay. I've done a similar thing at the rear but without the stay.


I've scratched up a representation of the lower part of the ashpan on which to mount the ashpan hopper door lever which is from Ragstone.


And in position. The drive will be on the rear axle of which there is clearance behind the truncated ashpan.


When it came to adding the cylinder drain pipes, I found yet again that the holes in the wrappers were too large for the pins on the castings.To correct this I added an overlay of thin NS plate and drilled new holes to match the size of the pins. Front sandpipes and supports have been added.


Now for the injectors, again from Ragstone to replace the poor quality white metal options from the kit. Here I'd, made a start on adding the pipes, the lower one being the outer injector.


The supports have now been added to the ends of the
rear sandpipes.


Right hand cylinder drain pipes, front sandpipe and flange added to the snifting valve cover.


Same thing on t'other side.


And a close up of the ash pan operating lever.


The injectors should be mounted on brackets off the main frame but that would create issues separating the body and chassis, although it could be done, but I decided to mount them on the underside of the body as a simpler option.


The water valves are from the spares box and the pipe unions were macd from 3mm brass rod, drilled on the lathe, cut and sanded to finish.


Here's a close up showing the holes drilled in the ends of the drain pipes to give a more realistic appearance.


Back tracking to the cab roof, I've added a short strip of 0.7 NS rod just behind the front and rear edges in the centre. This prevents the roof from being pushed back and forwards when handing, giving a more secure fit but still easy to remove and install.


The front buffers are now fitted but the rear ones are still to go on.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Here's a couple of extra views showing the full pipework on the right hand side.


There's still a lot on bits to add and some to make, but it now looks like a 3MT.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Scanlon]

Beautiful work Peter.
R

 

[NickK]

True. However, MOK doesn't offer them for sale on the website and the Invertrain ones will pass muster when painted.

I've been making steady if slow progress on the under pinnings. I bent one of the steps once too often so decided it was time to strengthen them up. The one under the cab that has been straightened has received a backing plate.
View attachment 201683

On the other side I've added a simple U bracket from 0.9mm NS rod.
View attachment 201685

At the front I've added a single length of NS rod to the rear edge along with a diagonal stay. I've done a similar thing at the rear but without the stay.
View attachment 201686

I've scratched up a representation of the lower part of the ashpan on which to mount the ashpan hopper door lever which is from Ragstone.
View attachment 201688

And in position. The drive will be on the rear axle of which there is clearance behind the truncated ashpan.
View attachment 201684

When it came to adding the cylinder drain pipes, I found yet again that the holes in the wrappers were too large for the pins on the castings.To correct this I added an overlay of thin NS plate and drilled new holes to match the size of the pins. Front sandpipes and supports have been added.
View attachment 201689

Now for the injectors, again from Ragstone to replace the poor quality white metal options from the kit. Here I'd, made a start on adding the pipes, the lower one being the outer injector.
View attachment 201687

The supports have now been added to the ends of the
rear sandpipes.
View attachment 201695

Right hand cylinder drain pipes, front sandpipe and flange added to the snifting valve cover.
View attachment 201696

Same thing on t'other side.
View attachment 201698

And a close up of the ash pan operating lever.
View attachment 201697

The injectors should be mounted on brackets off the main frame but that would create issues separating the body and chassis, although it could be done, but I decided to mount them on the underside of the body as a simpler option.
View attachment 201702

The water valves are from the spares box and the pipe unions were macd from 3mm brass rod, drilled on the lathe, cut and sanded to finish.
View attachment 201700

Here's a close up showing the holes drilled in the ends of the drain pipes to give a more realistic appearance.
View attachment 201703

Back tracking to the cab roof, I've added a short strip of 0.7 NS rod just behind the front and rear edges in the centre. This prevents the roof from being pushed back and forwards when handing, giving a more secure fit but still easy to remove and install.
View attachment 201701

The front buffers are now fitted but the rear ones are still to go on.
View attachment 201699

Cheers,
Peter

If I've ever needed any I've messaged Dave and he has always obliged.

Nick

 

[P A D]

If I've ever needed any I've messaged Dave and he has always obliged.

Nick

Now that you mention it Nick, I have in the past bought some parts not on his website after giving him a ring. However, I'm happy with the ones I've got and I'm sticking with them.

A little more progress was made today with the addition of the pipework on the left hand side. I'm pretty sure there is a valve on the inner pipe but I didn't have any so I knocked up a representation. I've still to drill throught it to add the control rod. It's far from perfect but should look OK in the murk under the cab.


I've still to add some cosmetic clamps to the pipework on both sides as well.




The bodywork was getting decidedly grubby and even though there's more soldering to be done and it will get grubby again, I decided to give it a scrub with shiny sinks. It's great for getting all the crud off, but is a sod to rinse away from all the nooks and crannies and clings like hell to solder seams.








The next big hurdle will be the lubricators and oil pipes and off course the cab interior has still to be detailed.

Cheers,
Peter

PS. And the little matter of adding the motor and pick ups!

 

[LarryG]

Looking good PAD I always enjoy following your construction threads. The Cl.3 2-6-2T is a bit of a hybrid with its Fairburn appearance married to a BR front end.

 

[simond]

Peter,

I have found that an ultrasonic bath is the bee’s knees at getting Cif or Shiny Sinks off models.

After a good scrub, I rinse whatever I’m making under the hot tap, and then a 10-minute blast in the bath, pretty much at the end of every soldering session. It’s nice to start the next session with a clean model.

that said, I’ve not noticed your builds looking grubby!

atb
Simon

 

[P A D]

More scratch building to improve the motion brackets which lacked the large box structure are the top rear and making the weight shaft supports which were not catered for in the kit. It's difficult to photograph the additions with the body, on but I'll do that in the next post. Hopefully these images give some idea of what I've added. I've also replaced the "triangular" webbing at the top edge of the brackets.



Here behind the radius rod, you can see where I've extended the upper part of the motion bracket inwards by grafting on an "L" shaped piece of brass plate.


As well as the weight shaft supports I've also added the missing reversing lever to the shaft.


And from a lower angle.


I finally got the rear buffers on.


The additions behind the motion bracket are not perfect but they give the impression of what should be there and fill in the gap that is left as it comes.


I've not had a chance to check it on the curves, but the rear truck wheels strike the steps when moved from side to side. It may be that the truck is pivoted too far to the rear but I'll check that and consider what to do. It should be possible to move the truck mount/stretcher forward if needed.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Dave Holt]

Nice work, Peter. Those additions around the motion bracket and reverser shaft make a noticeable difference.
The footstep issue is probably due to us generally expecting our models to cope with much tighter radii than the full size could. I've had that trouble with the front bogie wheels on LMS 4-6-0s, so I now move the steps out slightly (0.5 mm per side) and, in 4 mm scale, that just does the trick. Might need a bit more in 7 mm.
Dave.

 

[P A D]

Nice work, Peter. Those additions around the motion bracket and reverser shaft make a noticeable difference.
The footstep issue is probably due to us generally expecting our models to cope with much tighter radii than the full size could. I've had that trouble with the front bogie wheels on LMS 4-6-0s, so I now move the steps out slightly (0.5 mm per side) and, in 4 mm scale, that just does the trick. Might need a bit more in 7 mm.
Dave.

Thanks Dave.
Yeah, I've done the same in the past at the front on some locos. In this case there is no scope for doing that as the rear steps are at the extremity of where they can be mounted. The front is fine as the swing of the truck just clears the steps.

Looking at this drawing posted earlier by @OzzyO, the rim of the truck wheel is just in line with the front edge of the step. The truck pivot is in line with the driving wheel tyre, whereas on the model it is behind. I'm thinking that is probably the issue.






Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Checking the distance between the centres of the rear driving axle and rear truck axle confirmed that the distance was too great by about 6 scale inches. After giving some thought as to how to correct the error, I decided on extending the mounting spacer forward and re-drilling the hole for the truck screw 3.5mm towards the front. I made the extension plate then screwed and soldered it to the upper face of the spacer, then drilled the new hole and tapped it 8BA


So the pivot position has moved from here.


To here.




Now the top rear edge of the truck fouled the slope on the frames, so I marked up the area for removal with tape.

And ground back to the tape.


And now it's hunky dory.


When the truck is swung out on this side it now clears the steps.


On this side wheel clears the step, but fouls the pipe on the injector. I need to check it on the curves and if it's a problem I can adjust the pipe so it clears.


It looks a lot better now as the rear of the truck is tucked in under the buffer beam as ig should be and no longer level with it.








And after all that back tracking, some actual progress. I made a start on detailing the the locker/coal doors sub assembly, by adding the snecks to the coal doors and the hasps to the lockers. There are some oil boxes, the brake standard and I believe a lamp iron or two for spare lamps, although the latter will be on the bulkhead on the right of the lockers.


This assembly will be painted separately and then glued in place at the end. Still lots more to go in the cab.


I need to file down the snecks a little although they won't be visible from this angle after I add the cab doors.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

I overlooked this image showing that the spacing between the truck and rear driving axle centres is now correct at a scale 8ft 6in. The missing support to the sandpipe has since been replaced.


Oh, and some better images of the mods to the motion bracket and the added weight shaft detail. I need to trim the reversing rod behind the mount onto the frame.


The motion bracket from the rear.


And from the front.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Dave Holt]

Peter, a good resolution of the rear truck issue and, as you say, an improvement in appearance.
The enhanced motion bracket adds substance to what is a pretty hefty lump of metal on the real thing. If you really want to go the whole hog, you could add the small splashers over the top - rear of the leading wheels, which is inside the rectangular space you've created. The outer face of this splasher is in line with the vertical edge of your N/S infill plates, to clear the face of the wheels.
Dave.

 

[P A D]

Peter, a good resolution of the rear truck issue and, as you say, an improvement in appearance.
The enhanced motion bracket adds substance to what is a pretty hefty lump of metal on the real thing. If you really want to go the whole hog, you could add the small splashers over the top - rear of the leading wheels, which is inside the rectangular space you've created. The outer face of this splasher is in line with the vertical edge of your N/S infill plates, to clear the face of the wheels.
Dave.

Thanks Dave.
Good point about the splasher. Having downloaded this image (along with many others) from the 82045 website I had given it some thought and may add them. These are the patterns for making the casting mould with the bloke who made them. Good to know that pattern making is a skill that has not been lost with the demise of the steam locomotive and that there are guys who can transform these items into 7mm scale. Ian Young at Sanspareil who makes the castings for MOK springs to mind and of course with the advent of 3D printing, Mick Davies and others are bringing new skills to the party. My scratch built efforts are a bit crude in comparison, but Nick Dunnill I ain't!



Speaking of which, I must pull up the 82045 website to see if they have added any updates since October.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Continuing with the cab innards, I've completed the "wardrobes " for the rear bulkhead.


Here it is with the backhead casting.


To clear the cheesehead screw on the cab frontplate which locates the firebox, I ground a recess in the casting with a round cutting burr and also added a plate of brass at the bottom, drilled and tapped 12BA for the retaining screw up through the floor.


And I've made a start on removing the unwanted moulded detail that will be replaced with separate items.


I think it will look the part when it's done.


I note that the Lionheart model doesn't have the driver's side draught screen, but no doubt it will be on the production models. I cut mine a little short so will add a strip of angle brass at the bottom.


The gap won't show when the doors are on but I'll fill it anyway. And I must tidy up that beading on the leading edge of the front window. The rivets for the lifting brackets inside the bunker were added a while ago with items from Prime Miniatures as I forgot to punch them when I made the replacement bunker sides.


I've been putting off doing the lubricators and oil pipes but it's time I bit the bullet. The chunky items on the right are what comes with the kit, but I have some items from Ragstone bought years ago which I'm using instead. I also found these nice cruciform Wakefield ratchets in my spares and as many 3MTs had them fitted, I'll be using those as well. I think they may be spares from the F7 A4 or perhaps MOK???


First job was to drill holes for the brass tubing to mount the copper wire pipes. Yes, I know there should only be six feeds not eight and I subsequently corrected that by removing two feeds from each.


I cut the tube to roughly the same lengths using this simple jig.


And this one to then file them level.


I added the priming levers to the ratchets from brass strip and rod.


The alignment of the tubes in the left one is poor but they wont be (too) noticeable when I place.


To preempt any issues with the rear truck wheel fouling the injector piping on the curves, I've rejigged it to give more clearance. The pipe run has been changed from this.....


...... to this. Hopefully the extra clearance will be enough.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[dibateg]

Another beautiful tank from you Peter, great work!

Regards
Tony

 

[P A D]

Many thanks Tony.
After seeing what you did to correct the DJH Fairburn tank some years back, I really fancy one of them sometime. If I ever get one I will plagiarise the hell out of what you did!

After further hacking away at the backhead casting and adding some detail I've got to this. I've scraped off the unwanted moulded details and drilled out the washout plugs and replaced with square section brass. The water valves on the firbox side srd from the kit.


The water level gauges are just push fit for the photo as I still have to drill out the bottom to fit some copper wire for the pipes. As it comes, it's actually not a bad representation of the BR backhead. On the rear it is stamped BR class 4, but the 3 and 4 backheads were very similar.


I'm not sure about those sticky out levers but I'm leaving them. The damper wheels are from the spares box and I think they may be by DJB. I'll build up the brake stand with overlays and add the details, as well as adding an overlay to the tray over the firehole door, plus a separate part for the top end of the door opening lever.


I've added some simple brackets to the cab sides for the seat cushions which I'll make from plasticard. I will also add the small turn in to the cab side behind the fireman's seat.


I still need to make a plinth for the safety valves and will need to adjust the position of the whistle to clear the valves.


Another item I'll need to make it the sieve box located under the right hand tank. This is the one on 80004 taken in the shed at Oxenhope some years back.


And the one made for 82045


I can use the one on my MOK 4MT to work out the size.


And I'm still putting off the lubricators and piping.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Purple-haze]

Peter/anyone, I asked this question on another topic, so please excuse me hijacking your fantastic build, but I can't figure out how to view all the photos you supply.This is so frustrating as I'm really wanting to more of your work. The problem is only a few photos can be seen, all the rest appear to be downloads with jpg numbers. I am viewing on a chrome book and I,m wondering if this is not compatable?
After all that I think your work is akin to merlin!

thanks in advance Rog

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

Rog,

I have no problems viewing the photos, using a desktop and a laptop both running Windows and Chrome.

Tim

 

[P A D]

Rog,
All the images are inserted the same. I've no idea why you can't view them so I suggest you contact the admin team. Maybe you need to change a setting on your device???
Cheers,
Peter