Weathered Locos & Stock

[Silverystreaks]

Neil
What paint colours / mixtures did you use for the wheels and motion as shown on the Standard Class 4 image
Regards
Bob

 

[Podartist79]

Neil
What paint colours / mixtures did you use for the wheels and motion as shown on the Standard Class 4 image
Regards
Bob

I started blowing over the motion - by airbrush - a very thin, barely discernible layer of dirty grey-brown Bob.
Once this paint layer was dry and hard, I followed this by applying a mixture of oil paints.
Mainly Raw Sienna, with a little Burnt Umber added in, creating a consistency heavier than a wash, but not so thick as to fully colour the motion if that makes sense.
Here and there to create a more oily sheen I added some Windsor&Newton Liquin Original. The sheen it leaves is subtle, but I like it for scale models: I don’t like anything looking too glossy on models.
Hope that’s useful Bob.

 

[Podartist79]

A weathering job I completed before Christmas was this SR Z Class.
Scratch built by Nick Dunhill
Painted by Warren Heywood

 

[cmax]

Neil,
Fantastic build by Nick Dunhill, and love the early BR livery by Warren, but Neil, Wow! that finish is awesome.

Gary

 

[Podartist79]

Very kind Gary, thank you.

 

[steve50]

I love these posts, that is one stunning loco, just looks so real!

 

[Podartist79]

Thank you Steve.
It’s a very nice build.

 

[Podartist79]

The weathering on this King Arthur (MOK Kit) loco was completed some time ago now.
The draincock pipework was left off for ease of painting and then weathering, fitted later by the builder Mick Davies.
Painted by Paul Moore.
*MD has published photos of the loco fully finished with fitted draincock pipework, etc.

 

[Ressaldar]

Sublime, as always

regards

Mike

 

[Podartist79]

Thank you Mike.
It was a super build by MD, and lovely paint job by Paul Moore.

 

[cmax]

Wow! just wow.

 

[John Duffy]

Lovely stuff

 

[James]

Beautiful work Neil!

 

[paulc]

Hi Neil , beautiful work .
On the main bodywork was that a case of paint over then rub most of it back off to give you that sheen that oil paints seem to leave behind and the grot left around the edges and in the corners .

 

[Podartist79]

Hi Neil , beautiful work .
On the main bodywork was that a case of paint over then rub most of it back off to give you that sheen that oil paints seem to leave behind and the grot left around the edges and in the corners .

Thank you Paul.
That was absolutely the process, yes.
The oil paint leaves that oily sheen, as long as you don’t go too far rubbing it entirely off, if that makes sense.

 

[magmouse]

Thank you Paul.
That was absolutely the process, yes.
The oil paint leaves that oily sheen, as long as you don’t go too far rubbing it entirely off, if that makes sense.

Thanks, Neil - and what do you rub the paint off with, please?

Nick.

 

[Podartist79]

Thanks, Neil - and what do you rub the paint off with, please?

Nick.

Hi Nick,
I use a combination of cotton swabs (gently) soft large flat brushes and also the soft material cloths that come in glasses cases.

 

[paulc]

Thank you Paul.
That was absolutely the process, yes.
The oil paint leaves that oily sheen, as long as you don’t go too far rubbing it entirely off, if that makes sense.

Aha , so I'm finally starting to get the hang of this weathering malarkey as that's how I do it but haven't used a glass cleaning cloth yet .

 

[steve50]

Man alive he's done it again. Absolutely superb! That's so inspirational but I wouldn't know where to start, you seem to have a lot more control over what you put on and take off over other methods.

 

[Podartist79]

The latest loco to come off of my weathering workbench is another beautiful Lee Marsh Models Castle, GREAT WESTERN.