7mm Poor man's Alamosa.

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Many thanks Jason, if I’m honest it’ll be getting a set of protocraft working buckeyes, Richard and I have come to the conclusion that we (and purely a personal thing) can’t really abide the magnetic arm.

Wheels would be great. Do you have a replacement set for the GP35? If not I have been in touch with NWSL and hope to pick some up in a couple of weeks.

JB.
 

JasonD

Western Thunderer
No, the P48 wheels I have are mostly 33", some 36" (both diams coming to you). Mike was a steam era fan and had picked up some 3-rail Sunset steam locos to convert, but no 40" diesel wheels in his collection.

Over the years I've thought about snipping the magnetic arm off as near flush as possible, but I was doing something else today....

Also irrelevant, there is a "what about gauging P48 wheels for 1.25" track?" on the Fb group. I think getting the wheelsets down from .172 width to .115 was proposed first, but the compromise .145" was proposed by ?? ... PSC? The change to the correct track gauge followed very quickly.
Jason
 

JasonD

Western Thunderer
In case it's any help. Usual mix of good stuff and pics, with not reading the question well enough:


Jason
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
In case it's any help. Usual mix of good stuff and pics, with not reading the question well enough:


Jason
Thanks Jason, an interesting read, and does make you wonder about using the lifting bar couplers. Kadee's do provide the ultimate seamless layout. I guess its aesthetics vs operation, and without having any ideas on what my (intended) layout plans to 'do', I'm still not sure which wins at the moment.

The intention at the moment is light locos running around amongst a roundhouse (and possibly a traverser depending on space) and sidings, with the odd carriage or car sat in those sidings, all at a selfishly high errrr height, so manually splitting trains would be a chore. But of course, the higher the baseboard goes, the more you will see the leg of a Kadee.

JB.
 

JasonD

Western Thunderer
What a lovely pair. Such a shame that Atlas had their unexpected problem with their Chinese factory. Let's hope they cope with their acquisition of MTH Master products well enough.

I won't ramble on about trimming 1.5mm (well 1/16" to us Imperial Unit users) off the fixed end of the old, original Atlas couplers again for coupling up smoothly to Kadees.

Jason
 

RGSrr

Member
In case it's any help. Usual mix of good stuff and pics, with not reading the question well enough:


Jason
Protocraft and KDs together ?
I've tried without much success.
Considering Protocraft ( alone )
1. using their narrow draft box, they are very sensitive to set up and track radius.......... below 60" rad unhappiness requires intervention with pointy skewers etc, thus defeating the objective.
2. A slightly wider draft box is available ( more like the patented KD ?? ) I have some to play with. Based on comments from the US. the wider "throat" facilitates brakeman kicking couplers to improve alignment.
New Modular layout has min rad of 72", my intent is to set up Protocraft only sets of cars / switchers.

N.b. the 60" rad min relates to making / braking joints, the wider box may help? Trials this summer...... Protocraft couplers will run though 48" rad curves in a train, provided overhang lengths are not excessive but they won't make or brake happily

An alternative considered, if rads are below 60", is to truck mount the Protocraft so it follows the track centreline, however P48ers go into a faint swoon when this is suggested ;-] Too much like satan's "HI Rail" & damnation to you On5er swine sir !!

When Protocraft work they offer pure joy in the sense of open knuckle coupling or dropping cars without inserting the skewer and moving things in an unproto way. The watchmakers among us will no doubt rise to the challengers of working cut levers but I'm ok with a magnetic wand, if used carefully, only real hazard is too strong a magnet getting hold of the car, practice makes perfect.
When making a joint, loco stops short by 5ft, Brakeman opens both coupler jaws with cut levers or mag wand, calls engineer on to the joint which like the proto causes the couplers to automatically engage, stretch the slack, hook up the air and away you go :-}}

Protocraft & KD conjoined ???
Tried with each using standard draftboxes, Protocrft narrow box & KD 805 and KD 7xx series standard boxes. Neither system works faultlessly enough, skewer intervention sometimes works but the Protocraft needs to be opened to make the joint, this inevitably causes the Proto to touch the nose of the unopened KD causing both the refuse the hook. Not tried the wider Protocraft D/Box yet but based on present experience can't really see any point. Go with one or the other system. Not tried KD/ Protoc over the KD on track magnet but can't see the point of that either ?

Hope this helps, new layout is modern switching 21st century in On5. Protocraft couplers throughout if possible is the plan.

John Pearson
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
The watchmakers among us will no doubt rise to the challengers of working cut levers

Done that....:) ;)

The watchmakers among us will no doubt rise to the challengers of working cut levers but I'm ok with a magnetic wand, if used carefully, only real hazard is too strong a magnet getting hold of the car, practice makes perfect.

I mount small magnets in an aluminium or brass tube with a 45 deg or less cut on the end. This ensures the magnet will be at a constant distance above the coupler magnet and no danger of attaching itself.

magnet.jpg
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
A little while back there was an auction in Indiana for someone’s private collection and one of the lots I really really wanted.


Sadly it didn’t pan out as the price went way above what I wanted to pay (could afford).

24 hours later, a guy that I follow on Facebook living in Florida who it appears must be doing house clearance of collections, has one up for sale. What are the chances…

Here it is, a great deal cheaper believe me, but with a great deal of work to do to it!

67EF1932-64B2-43B1-8158-542540475F94.jpeg949687DD-F218-41F9-803D-7641ECFBE65E.jpeg566FFF74-DB1D-4C3B-B2BC-B2C5E4480FE2.jpegB058D9FC-8876-4E00-B461-734706A6DB28.jpeg57CA67F0-22D8-44DE-B1EF-CE8654F5D985.jpeg

Looking forward to getting it stripped and down to its component parts. I must admit the paint is well on there. Bucket of cellulose overnight??

JB.
 

JasonD

Western Thunderer
Lucky devil. Good price because of slight damage(?), but when you've fixed it up you'll be so fond of it...! Proud even! 2-8-0 is my favourite wheel arrangement, even S&D 7Fs!
Jason
 

PhilH

Western Thunderer
You may have noticed this already JB, but your loco seems to have been fitted with a different boiler front than the original PFM model

C48 smokebox front.jpg

presumably the holes were for attaching the headlight in the centre of the smokebox door as on the Milwaukee locos
Also the cab sides may have been changed - the Milwaukee locos had two equal sized windows whereas the D&RGW locos had a narrower window at the front of the side (usually later plated over) and a wider one with two sliding panes at the rear.
Anyway good luck with the rebuild !
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
You may have noticed this already JB, but your loco seems to have been fitted with a different boiler front than the original PFM model

View attachment 163055

presumably the holes were for attaching the headlight in the centre of the smokebox door as on the Milwaukee locos
Also the cab sides may have been changed - the Milwaukee locos had two equal sized windows whereas the D&RGW locos had a narrower window at the front of the side (usually later plated over) and a wider one with two sliding panes at the rear.
Anyway good luck with the rebuild !
Absolutely spot on Phil, yes the cab sides have been changed too. I’ll need to find a drawing or dimension from another model so I can etch some new ones up.

Any idea on the whereabouts of a new smokebox door?

Bit more work than I was expecting..

JB.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
I think you will need to 3D print a new smoke box door.

Richard
I think you could be right.

It could be a fairly simple job on a lathe possibly too. Perhaps a bit of sheet brass for the main flat surface, and a bit of brass bar rounded over on the corners.

Just then need to find the castings for the clamps(?)

JB.
 
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