BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Hi Martyn,
Can i take it that t0 convert the Lionheart pannier, all that is needed is to widen to S7 dimensions? Wheel reprofiling not being required?
A Nice Little S7 Layout
- Thread starter Dan Randall
- Start date
Hi Martyn,
Can i take it that t0 convert the Lionheart pannier, all that is needed is to widen to S7 dimensions? Wheel reprofiling not being required?
Chuffer
Active Member
The wheel profiles are just about OK as although not S7 they're finer than many others I've seen. I have found a couple of spots where the rims occasionally clipped on the cosmetic fishplates (cast brass ones, not the plastic variety) so I've had to file the tops of those down a little to stop this. The Prairie has S7 wheels so that runs nicely through all the track work.
Chuffer
Active Member
Thankyou - wasn't expecting that!
I'll have a think about exhibiting once I've reached the final stages of scenic work and presentation. I've just finished installing LED daylight lighting strips (fixed to battens that are suspended beneath the overhead tubing using spring tool clips), and why I was only now able to take photos in this daylight rather than the normal fluorescent yellowy colours of my workshop's ceiling lighting. Digital cameras are really sensitive to artificial lighting and the camera can still be confused by this and produce colour variations, so the images posted have all been slightly adjusted for colour balance - not much but enough to present the shots as near to the colours my eyes see in the flesh.
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Hi Martyn,
I will soon be making a start on the ballasting of my layout, I am already experimenting with various types that are on the market, and so far the only one that comes close is Dapols version although now I have this niggling doubt that the chippings are a bit too large.
Could you please tell me what you are using for ballast and also do you airbrush the rail sides and what colours were used? Sorry for all the questions, there is certainly an art to portraying natural colours and you certainly know how to bring these out to the best effect.
Regards,
Martyn.
I will soon be making a start on the ballasting of my layout, I am already experimenting with various types that are on the market, and so far the only one that comes close is Dapols version although now I have this niggling doubt that the chippings are a bit too large.
Could you please tell me what you are using for ballast and also do you airbrush the rail sides and what colours were used? Sorry for all the questions, there is certainly an art to portraying natural colours and you certainly know how to bring these out to the best effect.
Regards,
Martyn.
Chuffer
Active Member
Hi Martyn,
I have several glass jars containing ballast chippings of assorted sizes and origins and rather annoyingly I didn't keep their outer packaging (which would have been useful), but I think I used a blend of Woodland Scenics, Carrs and Green Scene. I studied colour photos of WR track and tried to work out which colours to go for. There seemed a common mix of pale grey, off white, plus a golden brown. It would seem less common to see one colour used throughout and random areas of contrasting shades would be favourite. I'm guessing the grey came from Meldon Quarry but I don't know if they produced other colours of granite stone. I would have used the size they market for 7mm scale, but you're right in that some products do look a tad oversize so if you think it looks too large a grade, it probably is. Better to be slightly undersize than over.
For sidings such as the loco shed one, I mixed a blend of 4mm scale ballast and much sieved garden soil - I use real soil for normal groundwork dressing as it's already the right colour. I also combine this very fine soil dust about 90/10 with chinchilla dust (Gordon Gravett gave me some which is a very pale grey/white material) to add texture and simulate very fine random stone dots.
I do use the airbrush for rail sides and chairs because it's so much quicker than paint brushes and doesn't clog up the finer detail unless I want to simulate very heavy rust and crud combinations, when a paint brush can be useful - a few dollops of talc blended in will add thicker powdery texture. A little matt black with a lot more red/orange brown works well. I think the red brown is either Humbrol 113 or 100 - I'll check tomorrow, but I vary the mix to suggest subtle changes in colour with matt orange also randomly added to the mix. The airbrush allows me to softly blend in the colours, which is why it's ideal for loco weathering.
I also add in touches of Humbrol Gunmetal 53 to the spray cup to add a little sparkle and texture plus Metalcote Gunmetal from their polished finish range, which nicely simulates oily deposits here and there. This same assortment of colours is also allowed to spray the ballast immediately beneath the rails as traffic dirt and rust particIes migrate from the rails to the chippings beneath. I spray this in random very light dustings onto the ballast and sleepers as well just to add further variation. Matt black and the Metalcote Gunmetal combine well to suggest that fresher, wet oily blue/black sheen in areas where a loco would regularly stand for periods of time, such as at the end of the platform by the starter signals, or in the engine shed road. This applies to steam or diesel locos - they all leave deposits of oil and grease where they stand.
Assorted weathering powders in similar orangey brown or yellow brown shades are randomly dusted onto the rail sides using a small paint brush. Rust is a subject all of its own really and exists in a variety of colours from very orange brown to a deep metallic blue/purple colour in old sidings. One paint I never buy is 'track colour' because to my mind there is no such thing - it's always a blend of colours, some subtle, others less so. I can often be found pointing my camera at rail sides and sleepers at preserved lines whilst everyone else is busy snapping the locos etc, but then I'm probably a little odd . . .
Hope this helps, always happy to answer questions.
Martyn
I have several glass jars containing ballast chippings of assorted sizes and origins and rather annoyingly I didn't keep their outer packaging (which would have been useful), but I think I used a blend of Woodland Scenics, Carrs and Green Scene. I studied colour photos of WR track and tried to work out which colours to go for. There seemed a common mix of pale grey, off white, plus a golden brown. It would seem less common to see one colour used throughout and random areas of contrasting shades would be favourite. I'm guessing the grey came from Meldon Quarry but I don't know if they produced other colours of granite stone. I would have used the size they market for 7mm scale, but you're right in that some products do look a tad oversize so if you think it looks too large a grade, it probably is. Better to be slightly undersize than over.
For sidings such as the loco shed one, I mixed a blend of 4mm scale ballast and much sieved garden soil - I use real soil for normal groundwork dressing as it's already the right colour. I also combine this very fine soil dust about 90/10 with chinchilla dust (Gordon Gravett gave me some which is a very pale grey/white material) to add texture and simulate very fine random stone dots.
I do use the airbrush for rail sides and chairs because it's so much quicker than paint brushes and doesn't clog up the finer detail unless I want to simulate very heavy rust and crud combinations, when a paint brush can be useful - a few dollops of talc blended in will add thicker powdery texture. A little matt black with a lot more red/orange brown works well. I think the red brown is either Humbrol 113 or 100 - I'll check tomorrow, but I vary the mix to suggest subtle changes in colour with matt orange also randomly added to the mix. The airbrush allows me to softly blend in the colours, which is why it's ideal for loco weathering.
I also add in touches of Humbrol Gunmetal 53 to the spray cup to add a little sparkle and texture plus Metalcote Gunmetal from their polished finish range, which nicely simulates oily deposits here and there. This same assortment of colours is also allowed to spray the ballast immediately beneath the rails as traffic dirt and rust particIes migrate from the rails to the chippings beneath. I spray this in random very light dustings onto the ballast and sleepers as well just to add further variation. Matt black and the Metalcote Gunmetal combine well to suggest that fresher, wet oily blue/black sheen in areas where a loco would regularly stand for periods of time, such as at the end of the platform by the starter signals, or in the engine shed road. This applies to steam or diesel locos - they all leave deposits of oil and grease where they stand.
Assorted weathering powders in similar orangey brown or yellow brown shades are randomly dusted onto the rail sides using a small paint brush. Rust is a subject all of its own really and exists in a variety of colours from very orange brown to a deep metallic blue/purple colour in old sidings. One paint I never buy is 'track colour' because to my mind there is no such thing - it's always a blend of colours, some subtle, others less so. I can often be found pointing my camera at rail sides and sleepers at preserved lines whilst everyone else is busy snapping the locos etc, but then I'm probably a little odd . . .
Hope this helps, always happy to answer questions.
Martyn
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Hi Martyn,
Thank you for the in depth reply, I appreciate you advice and I will certainly put it to good use.
I have used the sieved garden soil to good effect and also the kiln dried sand is also quite effective. Basically I have created some small test patches, these I do to help beat the monotonous task of soldering on track feeds and ballasting.
Apart from trying the different materials, I have realised just how important it is to get the colours as close as possible to the real thing.
I have to admit I also like to take plenty of photos of old disused sidings and railway paraphernalia, So your not alone
.
Thanks again,
Martyn.
Thank you for the in depth reply, I appreciate you advice and I will certainly put it to good use.
I have used the sieved garden soil to good effect and also the kiln dried sand is also quite effective. Basically I have created some small test patches, these I do to help beat the monotonous task of soldering on track feeds and ballasting.
Apart from trying the different materials, I have realised just how important it is to get the colours as close as possible to the real thing.
I have to admit I also like to take plenty of photos of old disused sidings and railway paraphernalia, So your not alone
.Thanks again,
Martyn.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
There's nothing better than studying nature for weathering and colouring. People have often asked me how I do my weathering and colouring and my standard reply is - just look out of the window.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
True, but I suspect most people want to learn how to use modelling materials to replicate what they see out of the window. I've got Martyn's books and articles, I've got most of the tools and raw materials, but I don't really have the skills - yet - to perform the miracles.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Sadly Dave, I can't agree, although looking out of the window definitely helps I think there is far more to it than that. There are lots of different techniques for getting that perfect finish and it's bloomin hard !
Richard
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
There are some good books on weathering that are done by plastic modellers, that is the method I am going to use.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Another good source of weathering techniques is from the wargaming fraternity - who are years ahead in this field.
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
My neighbour, who is into wargaming, highlighted Abandoned Miniatures FB pages to me. There's some very good stuff on there.
Chuffer
Active Member
It pays to look sideways at other types of modelling from time to time, because we tend to live in our own 'railway' world and don't always notice what the other genres of modeller are up to out there. I've stumbled across products and materials I didn't know existed that these other folk have apparently been using for years.
There's some brilliant modelling going on in the world of cars and aircraft, ships, spacecraft even - certainly worth a look anyway.
There's some brilliant modelling going on in the world of cars and aircraft, ships, spacecraft even - certainly worth a look anyway.
Stoke5D
Western Thunderer
The military stuff, especially the painting and detailing of dioramas is very relevant and transferable. Some here have mentioned that before of course. I particularly recommend a supplier called Ammo by Mig Jiminez AMMO by Mig Jimenez to anyone who's not looked at their range before. They also do several books etc. on using their materials. There's a free download on weathering http://www.migjimenez.com/img/cms/PDF/WEATHERING GREATEST HITS.pdf that is worth your while looking at.
Andrew
Andrew
allegheny1600
Western Thunderer
Simply Superb!
Thanks for the inspiration.
John.
Thanks for the inspiration.
John.
