I believe that the self-guarding crossings have raised "checks" which act upon the outer face of a wheel rim and thereby guide the wheel towards the crossing nose.... the check rail seems to work on the outside of the wheel rather than the inside of the wheel flange, or have I got it wrong?
Whilst waiting for the tea to draw this morning I browsed the proto48 web page of track components - I had just got used to the idea of a guarded frog when my brain started complaining about the range of crossing types... and with me not understanding the differences. So, Jordan, please offer some explanation for these bits and pieces:-
I wrote 'thick brown paper' but probably should have put "thin brown card" instead, probably a bit stronger than is visualised.
Progress is going to be slow on this. First up I've been working on making one of these for Code 100...
Blimey suddenly I'm the Expert on US track & switch terminology!!!Jordan, please offer some explanation for these bits and pieces:-
* rigid frog;
* bounded rigid frog;
* manganese insert frog, (I get the Mn bit, where / what is the insert?).
Correct. As far as I can tell, these are more common in "low speed" applications; i.e. yard tracks & industrial spurs rather than mainlines.I believe that the self-guarding crossings have raised "checks" which act upon the outer face of a wheel rim and thereby guide the wheel towards the crossing nose.
I've received a parcel today from the US of some highly-detailed cast parts for hand-laid switches. I may have to relinquish my Reserved Seat at the Back soon, & join you trackmaniacsenthusiasts up at the Front for a while....
Yup, yessir, goes with the territory - I have recollections of "expertations" in one or two of your posts "from the comfy chair".Blimey suddenly I'm the Expert on US track & switch terminology.
The corollary to that, of course, is that we the Dark Siders have very subtly been able to lure un-suspecting pure, true-blue British Chaps into the labrynthine clutches of Area 51.... *evil laugh*Yup, yessir, goes with the territory - I have recollections of "expertations" in one or two of your posts "from the comfy chair".
regards, Graham
That's the plan. I'm also hoping it'll be easy to poke the 'empty' square holes in them with a spare spike - the Peco IL13 spikes are square shank, which is most thoughtful of them.I think brown card will work really well, if you choose a stock that has a close grain then the texture will give a nice finish and work well toward a worn rusted look.
No. When it's American it has to be White & Red.Cracking, but shouldn't it be blue if it from the back of the class?![]()