MarkR
Western Thunderer
Hi Brian
That Dapol brake van looks great, could you tell me please, what reference material you used for the conversion.
Many thanks
Mark
Brian Daniels diesel workbench
- Thread starter Brian Daniels
- Start date
Hi Brian
That Dapol brake van looks great, could you tell me please, what reference material you used for the conversion.
Many thanks
Mark
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Looks like I haven't done anything for a while but I have been building this Finney7 West Country "Seaton" Think all that's left is the backhead. and a bit of tidying up. Just done the cylinder drain cocks today, they seem a bit low but it's got to run over my outside layout that's been down 30 years now and is a little worse for wear and has a few ups and downs on it but if it runs here it will run anywhere!
Can someone help with the bit in the cabside that has the 4 handles on it and two valves on it with a coiled up copper pipe. How long do I make the copper pipes? Are they the water pipes for cleaning the floor down with.
Can someone help with the bit in the cabside that has the 4 handles on it and two valves on it with a coiled up copper pipe. How long do I make the copper pipes? Are they the water pipes for cleaning the floor down with.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Finally finished this DJB Std 4 Tank that I built about 10 years ago!
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Also done a Heljan Pre-Production Clayton and a Heljan 37 that I cut the bufferbeam away on. The 37 is a GD machine so should really be a bit dirtier! It will have a bit more doing to it.
Brian
That is beautiful. I could lust after it as I did the Hornby Doublo model when I was a kid. I think it the smartest looking large tank loco ever built in the UK. For me it's the double scallop of the tanks above the valve gear enhanced by the BR (ex LNWR) livery.
Regards
Allen Morgan
That is beautiful. I could lust after it as I did the Hornby Doublo model when I was a kid. I think it the smartest looking large tank loco ever built in the UK. For me it's the double scallop of the tanks above the valve gear enhanced by the BR (ex LNWR) livery.
Regards
Allen Morgan
Silverystreaks
Western Thunderer
Well Brian, considering how long it is since this DJB kit first appear, its stands up well against the more modern opposition..... great job
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I have to add some more dirt to it if 37062 here is anything to go by.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Absolutely! I've build both the DJB and MOK variants and overall, the MOK takes the biscuit. However, it's only when you put them side by side that you notice odd dimensional errors on the DJB.
A superb model Brian, along with everything else on you thread, even the diesels.
Cheers,
Peter
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Has it really been April since I put anything on here!
Oh well, current project is to try and make a silk purse out of a sows ear as they say and improve the Hatton's/Heljan A4. I have made a start by adding Ragstone AWS receiver on the bogie and changed the wheels to Slaters with the Finney7 axles. The original axles are 3mm and the Slater's ones are 4mm so a little bit to open out. Cut back the drain cocks as well. Coupler banging plate made out of brass. Buffer heads have been blackened with Birchwood Casey gun blue. I have added a strip of plasticard to the edge of the running plate as it's flush with the valance unfortunately. Hopefully I will get the missing bits from Hattons at some point which includes the AWS conduit that tucks up under the sticky out ledge. Cab handrails added and tender ones made longer at the top. I have ordered a Finney7 tender lifting rings and a W1 valve gear etch to make up the lubricator to go into a couple of Ragstone white metal lubricator pots. Just got to think how to secure them to the chassis. Will try and replace the half moon curved bit on the valve gear as well, sorry brain fade and can't remember what it's called, it's not on a diesel you see! A re-paint at the end of it as well with Fox lining. It's going to be 60011 Empire Of India by the way. Got to support that front vac pipe or replace with a cast one, be stronger at least. Got to extend the bracket on top of the slide bars up a bit, can you solder to this metal?
Oh well, current project is to try and make a silk purse out of a sows ear as they say and improve the Hatton's/Heljan A4. I have made a start by adding Ragstone AWS receiver on the bogie and changed the wheels to Slaters with the Finney7 axles. The original axles are 3mm and the Slater's ones are 4mm so a little bit to open out. Cut back the drain cocks as well. Coupler banging plate made out of brass. Buffer heads have been blackened with Birchwood Casey gun blue. I have added a strip of plasticard to the edge of the running plate as it's flush with the valance unfortunately. Hopefully I will get the missing bits from Hattons at some point which includes the AWS conduit that tucks up under the sticky out ledge. Cab handrails added and tender ones made longer at the top. I have ordered a Finney7 tender lifting rings and a W1 valve gear etch to make up the lubricator to go into a couple of Ragstone white metal lubricator pots. Just got to think how to secure them to the chassis. Will try and replace the half moon curved bit on the valve gear as well, sorry brain fade and can't remember what it's called, it's not on a diesel you see! A re-paint at the end of it as well with Fox lining. It's going to be 60011 Empire Of India by the way. Got to support that front vac pipe or replace with a cast one, be stronger at least. Got to extend the bracket on top of the slide bars up a bit, can you solder to this metal?
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Don't know if you saw this on the net anywhere else but I painted this pre-production Heljan 56 recently
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Got a proper EXPANSION LINK on this A4 now and few other bits of the valve gear. I wanted to change the con rod but the etched one is a tad too short and I can't move the crosshead back to meet it, or is it the Heljan one is a tad too long! Still got the other side to do. Soldered the new return crank onto the end of the centre crankpin which now lines up everything a bit better.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That looks like Finney7 expansion link design, specifically the LNER Gresley set? If you are using that connecting rod then yes, sadly it is too short.
The real A4 connecting rod is 11' between bearing centres (the same as the Gresley A1/A3 and W1) which scales out at 77.07 mm, sadly I drew the coupling rod on said etches and it is 77.05 mm between centres, apologies for being short 0.02mm
The rear end of the slidebar guides shall be 22" ahead of the centre of the leading axle.
The centre line of the slidebar bracket shall be 3'-4 59/64" (a gnats smidge under 3'-5" in laymans terms) ahead of the leading axle centre.
Hope that helps.
The real A4 connecting rod is 11' between bearing centres (the same as the Gresley A1/A3 and W1) which scales out at 77.07 mm, sadly I drew the coupling rod on said etches and it is 77.05 mm between centres, apologies for being short 0.02mm
The rear end of the slidebar guides shall be 22" ahead of the centre of the leading axle.
The centre line of the slidebar bracket shall be 3'-4 59/64" (a gnats smidge under 3'-5" in laymans terms) ahead of the leading axle centre.
Hope that helps.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Yes it is the W1 etch Mickoo. As you can see the Heljan con rod has a very deep recess on it. I wonder if I can cut the end off and add a little bit and hopefully hide it behind the crosshead? As you can see I used a screw to attach the expansion link as the Heljan model only has one support bracket to hold it up so could not use two little stubs to hold it each side. Going to be fun to make the lubricator links on the other side!
mickoo
Western Thunderer
How short is it?
The W1 connecting rods are a laminated pair so you could cut them and extend them, but cut them in different places so the joint is staggered, the rear can be filed with some carrier etch, the front I'd do as you suggest, as close to the cross head bearing as possible. There's only a couple of mm from where the fluting ends and the bearing hole is, so it'll be nip and tuck.
The expansion link screw works and once the slot is filled, will look fine. Real engines have a cover plate on here so that'd hide it as well, sadly that cover plate is on the main chassis etch, it's on there due to the thinness of that sheet and not on the 0.7 mm valve gear sheet.
The lubricator linkage is fiddly, but definitely worth the effort.
Grab a copy of the W1 instructions off the Finney7 site, page 11 details the construction.
http://finney7.co.uk/Downloads/LNER_W1_A3_Pages.pdf
The W1 connecting rods are a laminated pair so you could cut them and extend them, but cut them in different places so the joint is staggered, the rear can be filed with some carrier etch, the front I'd do as you suggest, as close to the cross head bearing as possible. There's only a couple of mm from where the fluting ends and the bearing hole is, so it'll be nip and tuck.
The expansion link screw works and once the slot is filled, will look fine. Real engines have a cover plate on here so that'd hide it as well, sadly that cover plate is on the main chassis etch, it's on there due to the thinness of that sheet and not on the 0.7 mm valve gear sheet.
The lubricator linkage is fiddly, but definitely worth the effort.
Grab a copy of the W1 instructions off the Finney7 site, page 11 details the construction.
http://finney7.co.uk/Downloads/LNER_W1_A3_Pages.pdf
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Erm, if 1' = 7mm and 10' = 70mm, then surely 11' = 77mm ?
Ian
Ian