Brian Daniels diesel workbench
- Thread starter Brian Daniels
- Start date
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Yes Tom I have done quite a bit more to it.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
If only Tom. And as you probably know it will be blue and grey and not PO Red!(Thanks for the offer though Mike 
) It still needs some gangway buffer castings and another set of blue star MU jumpers and some buffers from JLTRT which I have not ordered yet as I am putting a list of bits and bobs together for Laurie regarding my future projects as well. It's getting there though. I shall add some brake rodding under it as well like I did with the Thumper. Still trying to make my mind up wether to add the door handles and handrails now or after painting? I would like to solder them on now rather than glue later, nice stronger joints for the rough handling it will get later!
) It still needs some gangway buffer castings and another set of blue star MU jumpers and some buffers from JLTRT which I have not ordered yet as I am putting a list of bits and bobs together for Laurie regarding my future projects as well. It's getting there though. I shall add some brake rodding under it as well like I did with the Thumper. Still trying to make my mind up wether to add the door handles and handrails now or after painting? I would like to solder them on now rather than glue later, nice stronger joints for the rough handling it will get later!
tomstaf
Western Thunderer
If only Tom. And as you probably know it will be blue and grey and not PO Red!(Thanks for the offer though Mike
And there was me thinking you might just Jaffa Cake it seeing as that was very much around in the B/G era
I'd add them on after painting as that's lots of individual painting to do, whereas you could do the whole lot in one mist of paint off the model.
Cheers
Tom
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Decided to solder the handrails on now as I think they will be a much stronger joint than glued. I will probably regret it whilst painting but there we are it's done now. I will paint the blue first then mask up and paint the grey so the masking tape should miss the soldered on stuff.
I have added some bufferbeam details on one end and the handrails all round. I also leveled it up a bit as it was a bit high at the trailing bogie end and a bit low at the power bogie end. Also added the battery box cover safety clips. Also added Westdale whitemetal door window frames to the ones that would drop.
I have added some bufferbeam details on one end and the handrails all round. I also leveled it up a bit as it was a bit high at the trailing bogie end and a bit low at the power bogie end. Also added the battery box cover safety clips. Also added Westdale whitemetal door window frames to the ones that would drop.
Attachments
tomstaf
Western Thunderer
Those make it look a lot better, far more 3D. Are you going to add the cab window frames like you did on the Thumper too?
Cheers
Tom
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Yes Tom, front window frames ordered from Pete Harvey. Hopefully pick them up at Telford. Just got some bi-coloured red/white LED's from DCC Supplies for this and future projects.
By the way this will be on display on my demo table at Telford along with a few Heljan conversions.
By the way this will be on display on my demo table at Telford along with a few Heljan conversions.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Done some more to the Heljan Western upgrade.
I have now replaced the buffers with JLTRT buffers so there is no seam around the barrel now. And I finally had a go at making and attaching the JLTRT brake castings. I ended up glueing the rear brake hanger into the frames and added the strip of metal across the front which rests on the top of the bogie. Ideally it should be screwed into the top I suppose but it seams ok at the moment. I had to remove the end of the fuel tank fairing to get room for the rear blocks. Must admit the middle axle has me stumped though as the spigot on the hanger wants to be fitted just where the screw is for the pick-up solder tag. A couple of pictures showing the bends I put in the speedo support as well.
I have now replaced the buffers with JLTRT buffers so there is no seam around the barrel now. And I finally had a go at making and attaching the JLTRT brake castings. I ended up glueing the rear brake hanger into the frames and added the strip of metal across the front which rests on the top of the bogie. Ideally it should be screwed into the top I suppose but it seams ok at the moment. I had to remove the end of the fuel tank fairing to get room for the rear blocks. Must admit the middle axle has me stumped though as the spigot on the hanger wants to be fitted just where the screw is for the pick-up solder tag. A couple of pictures showing the bends I put in the speedo support as well.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Brian, well worth your effort
What size strip did you use between the brake hangers ?.
Rob
What size strip did you use between the brake hangers ?.
Rob
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Small thin Nickle silver stuff 
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Although it looks like I haven't done much recently I have been beavering away at odd projects. One thing done recently was converting and weathering a Heljan class 31 to an ETH one for a friend. I painted the cab interior whilst I was at it and removed the front window molding and cut it into three windows . I filed the individual windows down a bit so as they fit better at the top when placed back into the body. Did the same with the headcode glazing so it sits inboard a bit. One thing I could not do though was to get a small diameter tube on the ETH sockets. It was driving me mad for half an hour before I gave up and used a piece of tube that's too big but at least it has something.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I have now finished my 4 Mousa Models Conflat L's at last. I have never known a little wagon take so long to make. I had to get Simon Thompson to make me 12 3D printed containers for these wagons which required painting and weathering before attaching to the wagons with the etched chains. I weathered it with Model Mates weathering paints that require you to varnish it after one colour application to seal it for the next colour. This all takes time as did soldering up 48 of those chains!
But in the end it's all been worth it as these are a very nice looking wagon behind my JLTRT class 25 just rattling down the main from Peak Forest?
But in the end it's all been worth it as these are a very nice looking wagon behind my JLTRT class 25 just rattling down the main from Peak Forest?
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I have also been making one of these Pete Harvey rail built buffer stops. I have soldered it onto a short length of Atlas track.
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Brian,
"One thing I could not do though was to get a small diameter tube on the ETH sockets. It was driving me mad for half an hour before I gave up and used a piece of tube that's too big but at least it has something"
try using heat shrink, shrunk onto some pre-bent 0.5/0.7mmish copper wire - it's up to you whether you drill holes in the ETH housings and leave a 'spigot' on the end of the wire or leave the spigots on the ETH, assuming that they are small enough. If you go for the latter, then you can get a smooth outer casing to the tube by holding a piece of 0.7mm brass wire say 75mm long - uncleaned, in a vice, slide the new heat shrink (say 75 - 100 mm long) over the wire and while rotating the tube all the time, apply the heat, when you have done about 50mm you can slide it off, turn it round and do the rest.
Best of luck.
cheers
Mike
"One thing I could not do though was to get a small diameter tube on the ETH sockets. It was driving me mad for half an hour before I gave up and used a piece of tube that's too big but at least it has something"
try using heat shrink, shrunk onto some pre-bent 0.5/0.7mmish copper wire - it's up to you whether you drill holes in the ETH housings and leave a 'spigot' on the end of the wire or leave the spigots on the ETH, assuming that they are small enough. If you go for the latter, then you can get a smooth outer casing to the tube by holding a piece of 0.7mm brass wire say 75mm long - uncleaned, in a vice, slide the new heat shrink (say 75 - 100 mm long) over the wire and while rotating the tube all the time, apply the heat, when you have done about 50mm you can slide it off, turn it round and do the rest.
Best of luck.
cheers
Mike
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mike. I did file down the spigots on the JLTRT ETH equipment but obviously not enough. The tubing I used for No2 End isn't bad but as usual I did not have enough to do both ends so No1 End is a bit thicker. It's one of those things that will get replaced easy enough later. Flexible tubing is one of those diesel bits you need a lot but can you get hold of any decent stuff? I am using bits from my previous DJH kits as they have a nice supply of varying sizes but we don't know who their suppler is as I would willingly get a reel of the stuff
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Brian, I'd like to see a better picture of your ex Kings Cross Motor Depot building please
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Not mine I'm afraid but will see what I can do next time I am down there.
Jon Fitness
Western Thunderer
I'm sure Steph Dale mentioned some suitable material on here somewhere. Something to do with fishing or something...Thanks Mike. I did file down the spigots on the JLTRT ETH equipment but obviously not enough. The tubing I used for No2 End isn't bad but as usual I did not have enough to do both ends so No1 End is a bit thicker. It's one of those things that will get replaced easy enough later. Flexible tubing is one of those diesel bits you need a lot but can you get hold of any decent stuff? I am using bits from my previous DJH kits as they have a nice supply of varying sizes but we don't know who their suppler is as I would willingly get a reel of the stuff
. Can't find it though...JF