warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Just search on eBay in angling 'Rig Tube' there is loads of it
Brian Daniels diesel workbench
- Thread starter Brian Daniels
- Start date
Jon Fitness
Western Thunderer
Ah, thats the stuff. Thanks.
JF.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Managed to get out between the showers and take a few pictures of another project on the go, a JLTRT class 22. I will be doing it as 6319 in blue.
I am not keen on the way it's been designed, you have to put the windows first because the cab interior slides in from the back so is locked in when the cabs are put on the body. I suspect this was done this way because of a tuck under of the body side which makes putting the floor up inside from the bottom a challenge. I have secured the windows with a waterproof PVA glue that I thinned and then run round the windows with a small brush. Hopefully when the model gets cleaned for painting under the tap the windows will not fall out. Also will have to mask all of the windows before painting.
Both the cab desk and rear bulkheads come up nice when painted.
I have opened out the headcode boxes to put a light behind them and to get a glass finish to the headcode glass as there is no glazing in the kit for these. I have just made a temporary headcode just to see what it looks like, will get a proper headcode number done soon. I can't put the cabs onto the rest of the body until I have glued these headcodes in so it might be a while as I have to get the headcodes made using Fox numbers on black plasticard and then I use a photocopier to make them in paper before using Kristal Klear to glue them to the headcode glazing. I broke a handrail for the front trying to file the rear of the bottom cast pad as it's got a V shape to the back so does not sit back on the cast front very well. There are not enough of the correct style lamp brackets supplied, the two I have fitted on the front are good but the other two like it on the sprue have a pad cast on the back and the other two have the fixing brackets turn up on themselves. suspect these are correct for all the variants of these loco's but you could do with two lamp bracket sprues and not just the one supplied.
The bogie sideframes are very nice but there is no method to fix them to the bogie inner apart from gluing them on which I am loath to do as you can bet you will need to get them off sometime in the future when a Slaters wheel allen screw comes loose! There are no holes in the bogie inner to put pick-ups in like their other models so you have to mark out and drill your own.
But for all this it's looking very nice. I still have not got any motors and gearboxes. I will use Mashima's and Roxey fold-up etch gear boxes.
I am not keen on the way it's been designed, you have to put the windows first because the cab interior slides in from the back so is locked in when the cabs are put on the body. I suspect this was done this way because of a tuck under of the body side which makes putting the floor up inside from the bottom a challenge. I have secured the windows with a waterproof PVA glue that I thinned and then run round the windows with a small brush. Hopefully when the model gets cleaned for painting under the tap the windows will not fall out. Also will have to mask all of the windows before painting.
Both the cab desk and rear bulkheads come up nice when painted.
I have opened out the headcode boxes to put a light behind them and to get a glass finish to the headcode glass as there is no glazing in the kit for these. I have just made a temporary headcode just to see what it looks like, will get a proper headcode number done soon. I can't put the cabs onto the rest of the body until I have glued these headcodes in so it might be a while as I have to get the headcodes made using Fox numbers on black plasticard and then I use a photocopier to make them in paper before using Kristal Klear to glue them to the headcode glazing. I broke a handrail for the front trying to file the rear of the bottom cast pad as it's got a V shape to the back so does not sit back on the cast front very well. There are not enough of the correct style lamp brackets supplied, the two I have fitted on the front are good but the other two like it on the sprue have a pad cast on the back and the other two have the fixing brackets turn up on themselves. suspect these are correct for all the variants of these loco's but you could do with two lamp bracket sprues and not just the one supplied.
The bogie sideframes are very nice but there is no method to fix them to the bogie inner apart from gluing them on which I am loath to do as you can bet you will need to get them off sometime in the future when a Slaters wheel allen screw comes loose! There are no holes in the bogie inner to put pick-ups in like their other models so you have to mark out and drill your own.
But for all this it's looking very nice. I still have not got any motors and gearboxes. I will use Mashima's and Roxey fold-up etch gear boxes.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I got round the glazing problem by painting the cabs and body sides in the flat, then assembling things.
It's nice to see a Headcode box version. Laurie at JLTRT has threatened me with a grubby blue one for the show stand.
It's nice to see a Headcode box version. Laurie at JLTRT has threatened me with a grubby blue one for the show stand.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Hi heather.
I did wonder if I should do it that way but I prefer to stick it all together before I paint it as the older I am getting the hand /eye co-ordination ain't what it used to be
Putting the windows now is ok, but a pain, as we did it to the 25 and 52's.
I did wonder if I should do it that way but I prefer to stick it all together before I paint it as the older I am getting the hand /eye co-ordination ain't what it used to be
Putting the windows now is ok, but a pain, as we did it to the 25 and 52's.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Brian,
For the bogie sides you might try this, chop off the spigots on the bogie sides and drill say 4 mm hole, insert corresponding rod but make it stick out by a good 10 mm, the drill the inner chassis hole deeper to accept your new rod, maybe drill all the way through.
Next on the underside and about 7 mm in, drill a vertical hole (2 mm should be plenty big enough) that intercepts the transverse hole, counter sink on make a larger hole in the top to hide the screw head, or just use grub screws after threading the smaller bore, slide in your side frames and then screw a small retaining screw into the holes to grip the new rod in your side frames, your sort of making a giant insulated terminal block (chocky blocks we call them)
Blue are the retaining screw holes.
Red, your new brass fixing rod 4 mm or so.
Green, the new hole in the inner frames to accept the longer fixing rods.
Once you have screwed them in the screws will mark the brass rod, simply withdraw and file a small flat in the rod at the corresponding marks, that way you won't have to tighten the screws up so tight to hold the rod in future.
For the bogie sides you might try this, chop off the spigots on the bogie sides and drill say 4 mm hole, insert corresponding rod but make it stick out by a good 10 mm, the drill the inner chassis hole deeper to accept your new rod, maybe drill all the way through.
Next on the underside and about 7 mm in, drill a vertical hole (2 mm should be plenty big enough) that intercepts the transverse hole, counter sink on make a larger hole in the top to hide the screw head, or just use grub screws after threading the smaller bore, slide in your side frames and then screw a small retaining screw into the holes to grip the new rod in your side frames, your sort of making a giant insulated terminal block (chocky blocks we call them)
Blue are the retaining screw holes.
Red, your new brass fixing rod 4 mm or so.
Green, the new hole in the inner frames to accept the longer fixing rods.
Once you have screwed them in the screws will mark the brass rod, simply withdraw and file a small flat in the rod at the corresponding marks, that way you won't have to tighten the screws up so tight to hold the rod in future.
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Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I was thinking along those lines Mickoo, thanks.
Another couple of hours today.
Fitted the roof etches.
Bufferbeams attached but they needed a bit of filing to get a good fit with the cabs.
Finished the bogie sideframe details with the air cylinders and lifeguards.
[
I added the buffer heads to the shanks and stopped them turning by the old fashioned way with a piece of wire between the two rear shafts. Thankfully there is a slot between the floor and chassis for the wire to sit in.
When the cab interior is slotted in it is a pig to get out again as the side windows that are further in at the bottom than the top get in the way. It takes a bit of twisting to get the things out again.
Another couple of hours today.
Fitted the roof etches.
Bufferbeams attached but they needed a bit of filing to get a good fit with the cabs.
Finished the bogie sideframe details with the air cylinders and lifeguards.
[
I added the buffer heads to the shanks and stopped them turning by the old fashioned way with a piece of wire between the two rear shafts. Thankfully there is a slot between the floor and chassis for the wire to sit in.
When the cab interior is slotted in it is a pig to get out again as the side windows that are further in at the bottom than the top get in the way. It takes a bit of twisting to get the things out again.
Attachments
Simon
Flying Squad
That's looking good and I think your anti buffer rotating wheeze is excellent, I shall copy it on D6319 which is forever displaying displaced bufferheads
The face of the model convinces, but the sides look a bit lumpen to my eyes.
They aren't helped by the angle between the roof arc and the tops of the sides, there seems to be a planar face that splits the two angles and the strip above the cab side looks similarly odd. But I expect that there is more work to do in these areas as part of the "fitting it all together".
I suppose the body shell was too small to allow a single casting of the whole thing like Fred's G1 model? It all looks like b. hard work to me
Looking forward to seeing it progress nonetheless
Simon
The face of the model convinces, but the sides look a bit lumpen to my eyes.
They aren't helped by the angle between the roof arc and the tops of the sides, there seems to be a planar face that splits the two angles and the strip above the cab side looks similarly odd. But I expect that there is more work to do in these areas as part of the "fitting it all together".
I suppose the body shell was too small to allow a single casting of the whole thing like Fred's G1 model? It all looks like b. hard work to me
Looking forward to seeing it progress nonetheless
Simon
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
The face is really good, certainly the bit that I was not happy with at all on my SB kit.
I'd have thought the "filling & sanding" sage that JLTRT kits seem to need would preclude pre-painting the body components before assembly? Or at least, just make touching up the paint the equivalent "awkward" job instead of masking the glazing...? Just observations....
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
When I was building the pre-production one for the show stand, I was told the cabs were not the final version, and things might not fit as well as the proper production models might. I found I needed to spend a while carefully sanding and filing to ensure the join was as good as it could be, and I didn't need any filler in the end. I painted sides and cabs before assembly, and I don't recall anything more than a little retouching at some points.
The slightly awkward joint I found was the body to roof one, which was made better by running a square file backwards down the roof slot a few times.
As you probably realise, to cover the multitude of various end styles these locos carried over their relatively short lives, the cabs are made as special moulds rather than let you mix and match details to suit. It's why you need a loco number and a date when you order. Some variation in the moulds is inevitable, so a bit of fettling before assembly is always a good idea.
It's coming on nicely, Brian. Laurie tells me he wants a filthy blue one for the show stand, which will make a change from all this GWR green I seem to have on my order book!
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
Looks great Brian, will you be adding the snow ploughs ?
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Did clsss 22 carry ploughs? I'd of guessed not but class 29 certainly did
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I would love to add a set of ploughs but I have not seen a picture of one yet with them on.
I will have a go at doing the bogie sideframe mod with a bit of brass rod but typically I haven't got any rod big enough for the job so it might be a while until I get this done. Also I can't glue the body together until I make the headcodes as these will be glued in from behind. I must order some headcode transfers from Fox. I did try and make some with Headcode font on my computer but you need it printed out with waterproof ink as I attach them to the glazing with Kristal Klear and that tends to make computer inks run.
I will have a go at doing the bogie sideframe mod with a bit of brass rod but typically I haven't got any rod big enough for the job so it might be a while until I get this done. Also I can't glue the body together until I make the headcodes as these will be glued in from behind. I must order some headcode transfers from Fox. I did try and make some with Headcode font on my computer but you need it printed out with waterproof ink as I attach them to the glazing with Kristal Klear and that tends to make computer inks run.
Andrew Thompson
Western Thunderer
I have seen a picture with one with snow ploughs on a recent forum will try and remember were I saw the photo .
Andrew
Andrew
Andrew Thompson
Western Thunderer
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Brian
To waterproof the ink spray it with varnish
Richard
To waterproof the ink spray it with varnish
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Amazing
first shot I've ever seen of one with ploughs. Suits them rather well I think 
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I am sooo tempted to add ploughs even if there are no pictures of 6319 with them on as all I have to say is I have modelled it on the days that no one photographed it which was when it had it's ploughs fitted, if there's no pictures how can you prove otherwise 
I do have a set of JLTRT ploughs for one end only though. I might just make them up and see what it's like.
I did think about sealing the headcode transfers Richard but lets be honest, I am a lazy so and so
I do have a set of JLTRT ploughs for one end only though. I might just make them up and see what it's like.I did think about sealing the headcode transfers Richard but lets be honest, I am a lazy so and so
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
About time I up-dated this thread!
I got the bogie sideframes sorted so they can come off easily but once you put the brake pull rod on behind the wheels you can't get the sideframes off without removing the rod!
I got the bogie sideframes sorted so they can come off easily but once you put the brake pull rod on behind the wheels you can't get the sideframes off without removing the rod!
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I finished it today!
Should I put a chip in it the lights are in and wired up already so we can illuminate it in all it's glory. I have drilled a hole at the top of the cab bulkheads to poke a bulb through.
I added a couple of horns under the bufferbeam as the one on the drivers side shows in pictures but so much the the one on the other side. Does anyone know for sure if I got them right?
Should I put a chip in it the lights are in and wired up already so we can illuminate it in all it's glory. I have drilled a hole at the top of the cab bulkheads to poke a bulb through.
I added a couple of horns under the bufferbeam as the one on the drivers side shows in pictures but so much the the one on the other side. Does anyone know for sure if I got them right?