Church Norton
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Western Thunderer
There are a lot more detailed parts to add, but I find it easier to paint the main walls and interior at this stage. The “ upstairs “ with this type of signal box was accessed from a set of interior stairs, so it looks like I will have to scratch build a stairwell and some form of bannisters, as these will be quite noticeable through the glazing.
Cheers,
Martyn.
Cheers,
Martyn.
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
So far so good, it has been quite a productive day. The brickwork has all been painted now, and always looks a bit psychedelic before the mortar coat is applied. I have also cut out the stairwell, and made a start on the staircase which I am making out of coffee stirrers courtesy of a well known supplier 
.... The stair and bannisters rails will be made out of something a bit sturdier, probably some off cuts of brass angle and rod.
Happy New Year,
Martyn.
.... The stair and bannisters rails will be made out of something a bit sturdier, probably some off cuts of brass angle and rod. Happy New Year,
Martyn.
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Now that the staircase and bannister rails are in place I thought I would get on with applying the mortar coat. Rather than applying a coat of diluted paint, my method is to use a synthetic filler and literally spread it into all the gaps with an old credit card of similar. It took me less than 20 minutes to apply the mortar coat and once it hardens off I will make a start on weathering the brickwork.
Cheers,
Martyn.
Cheers,
Martyn.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
The mortar fill looks great. I've seen others colour the filler first. Its something I want to try myself as it looks a lot easier than my paint method. 
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3 LINK
Western Thunderer
The mortar fill looks great. I've some others colour the filler first. Its something I want to try myself as it looks a lot easier than my paint method.
Afternoon Phil,
Regarding the filler, I have thought of trying to colour the filler first, I just haven’t got round to it yet. Maybe try mixing the filler with weathering powders rather than paint as the texture of the synthetic filler is different to normal fillers. If I can find the time I’ll carry out a couple of experiments and see if it’s feasible.
Regarding applying the filler, it takes next to no time to carry out the process, much quick than a diluted wash of paint which I don’t mind admitting is a pet hate of mine, I could never seem to get a good consistency to the wash or the actual coverage.
Martyn.
LarryG
Western Thunderer
It's too late for me to use now, but the synthetic Polyfilla looks a good idea. Adding mortar is one of those skinning a rabbit jobs and I am always keen to read other modellers techniques.
Like others, I found diluted enamel did not work on laser cut brick courses because it soaked upwards and downwards into the wood courses and all-but disappeared after a few hours. I have used undiluted enamel for the past couple of years. After an hour, the bricks were wiped clean with turps on a tissue and then the brick were dry-brushed at an angle with the original colour. Muck & water runs were added with much diluted PPC 'dirty black'.
Like others, I found diluted enamel did not work on laser cut brick courses because it soaked upwards and downwards into the wood courses and all-but disappeared after a few hours. I have used undiluted enamel for the past couple of years. After an hour, the bricks were wiped clean with turps on a tissue and then the brick were dry-brushed at an angle with the original colour. Muck & water runs were added with much diluted PPC 'dirty black'.
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Western Thunderer
Hi Larry,
Its always interesting to hear how fellow modellers deal with this part of modelling, the level of detail that can be achieved with laser cut brickwork nowadays is amazing. So it’s hats off to Phil (Intentio ), and Lcut and rest of the guys that can bring us these amazing kits.
Martyn.
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Western Thunderer
Yes that’s correct Adrian, I have also purchased their lever frame kit and block instruments, hopefully I’ll find the time to build that tomorrow. I used solder to build the stove rather than super glue or epoxy as the parts are very small I’d reckoned there would be more glue on my fingers than on the parts....
Cheers,
Martyn.
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
I agree Grahame,
the etches are fine and of good quality, it’s just a shame it will be hidden behind the glass of the signal box. Still I suppose I know it’s there
..Martyn.
