Designing For Laser Cutting

28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Ressaldar said:
In the first photo of the last set, there is an inverted 'backing panel' can this be re-fed into the machine that face down so that the inside parapet wall can be lasered on, as the other side is 'uncut' from the first pass and that way, you are almost the correct thickness for the parapet wall, just need the coping stones or brick on end coping.

Sorry if I'm teaching to suck eggs

Mike
Click to expand...
The mdf is 2 mm thick or 3 1/2 " im guessing the parapet should be 13 1/2 " so I shall go with a 2mm, 3.2mm and 2mm sandwich which should about right
 
Ressaldar

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I agree with the parapet thickness, therefore, you will presumably be getting x number of strips out of one sheet fot the inner face of the wall?

Should also have said brick 'on edge' - not 'on end' for the coping - it was getting late and I was still in the air with the Lancaster and enjoying the sound of four Merlins.:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::'(

cheers

Mike
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Yes the visible part of the back will be laminations, and the coping will be stone, brick would be a right pain :)
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
This should work :) I decided to engineer a slot and tab support for the insert

Inner supports
IMG_4760.JPG

All just slot and tab no glue, making a framework

IMG_4761.JPG

Can you see what it is yet?

IMG_4763.JPG

Plenty of support for the liner

IMG_4764.JPG

A quick eyeball and all the clearances are spot on first time:cool:

IMG_4766.JPG

This is really proof of concept for an overbridge rather than part of the arches but you know how easily distracted I am.......
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
This shows one of the problems with cutting narrow lines in thin material. If the substrate is not absolutely flat then straight lines become bananas, and it is not helped by being at the limit of line thickness in .75mm Rowmark.
They will eventually be destined for the big warehouse on Heyside
IMG_4952.JPG

IMG_4953.JPG
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Card, but not the stuff you get from Smiffs. it Pendon without the pain :))
7mm Pallet resting on big 1/32 brother. I have scuffed the ends a bit, but thats about it. Assembly time is about 1 minute to glue up, wait half an hour (or 30 seconds in my case) and remove the assembly supports with a scalpel or slitting saw and job done:)
IMG_4986.JPG
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Gosh, don't those pallets show up the difference between 7mm and 1/32. I should imagine a few of those can disappear on Heyside

The Mk 2 window looks fantastic. Are they likely to be stable with changes in temperature being so thin?

Richard
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Another little view into my mad world......
Whilst waiting for a job to finish cutting, I started thinking of garden sheds or rather the lack of them on Heyside :)
So i fired up Autocad and in 10 minutes I had these (actually they are 1/32 as I thought bigger would be better for a first attempt)
IMG_4991.JPG

To which I added some boards
IMG_4992.JPG

Unfortunately I have not worked out a way of making featheredge on a laser and end on it shows the shortcomings, but if I can source some really thin ply it might be feasible
IMG_4993.JPG

Being practical in 7mm I think a overlay lasered to represent T&G is the way to go over an mdf former
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
I see Heyside has sucked you in. We get everyone in the end:)

Great work again. I'm full of admiration for the skills shown by you and others with the take up of 'new' technology.
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
28ten said:
Another little view into my mad world......
Unfortunately I have not worked out a way of making featheredge on a laser and end on it shows the shortcomings, but if I can source some really thin ply it might be feasible
Click to expand...

Facinating stuff.

Would you be able to see the ends on the finished building? Our shed has batons on the corners so the end of the featheredge isn't visible. Could you half-etch(laser) a step in the rear of the planking so that the visible bottom edge appears thinner. The step could provide a positive location so that each plank is parallel. Does that make sense?
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
adrian said:
Facinating stuff.

Would you be able to see the ends on the finished building? Our shed has batons on the corners so the end of the featheredge isn't visible. Could you half-etch(laser) a step in the rear of the planking so that the visible bottom edge appears thinner. The step could provide a positive location so that each plank is parallel. Does that make sense?
Click to expand...


Good thinking, that man :thumbs: we will see later tonight :)
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
As I said my old camera is struggling with this but here is a shot eith an attempt at faded creosote and out of interest I poked a bit of wire at it in the second left upright to see if I could do anything about nails and the answer would appear to be yes with a smaller diameter wire. I could laser the impression but i think it is just as easy and a little more random to do it by hand
CRW_5008.jpg
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
mmm........so your a nail counter eh ? ;):))

I do like the shed though, very nice idea :)

Have you thought about doing a brick built station building ?

Phill :thumbs:
 
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