Designing For Laser Cutting

[Steve Cook]

Any thought welcome

What, aside from the 'Are you doing one in kit form mister' one that sprang to mind straight away

Honestly, whilst I like what you've done, I reckon you have a chance to up the ante in 1/32 and get two paint colours on that window frame. If I were giving it a go (and you've no idea how much I want to having thought about it ) , it'd be stained wood, then a light chipping with a cream coloured paint, sealed with varnish and a second chipped coat of paint, but whiter than the first. The idea would be to create an undercoat of older paint that has yellowed with age, slowly being revealed as the later paint flakes and chips off. A bit of distressing over the top with rain streaked dirt and moss as you've already done and it'd be a cracker.

Just a thought....

Steve

 

[Dog Star]

Having looked at that and the pictures in the thread I thought a representation of the rising plate on the rear of the wheel would be an idea. Just a mylar disc that slides over the axle I would imagine that it could be riveted to represent bolts.....
View attachment 12038

Might there be four of those disks keeping the paint mask company?

 

[28ten]

Might there be four of those disks keeping the paint mask company?

There will be a small handful I need to make the centre hole bigger as I remembered that the S7 wheels have that boss on the inside. BTW Mylar needs to be glued with a contact adhesive.

 

[28ten]

What, aside from the 'Are you doing one in kit form mister' one that sprang to mind straight away

Honestly, whilst I like what you've done, I reckon you have a chance to up the ante in 1/32 and get two paint colours on that window frame. If I were giving it a go (and you've no idea how much I want to having thought about it ) , it'd be stained wood, then a light chipping with a cream coloured paint, sealed with varnish and a second chipped coat of paint, but whiter than the first. The idea would be to create an undercoat of older paint that has yellowed with age, slowly being revealed as the later paint flakes and chips off. A bit of distressing over the top with rain streaked dirt and moss as you've already done and it'd be a cracker.

Just a thought....

Steve

Yes I could add some layers of paint, it would just need a bit of salt and chipping fluid, although the windows are really quite fine it might not show, it is certainly something for when I paint the structure as it would have been GWR Stone and it was repainted cream in 1952, so quite a few layers to reveal. I stall can't get the Doan method to work but cellulose thinners over the paint causes it to crackle quite nicely.

I started the week with things that went wrong, well hopefully something has gone right

To give an idea of size, little guy is 7mm, big guy is 1/35 and the 'box is 1/32





I couldn't resist trying this...... Do I need a Ruston pushing a warflat?

 

[Dog Star]

There will be a small handful

Thank you.

 

[28ten]

Further to my attempts at being confined to padded cell, I thought it might be worth trying individual panes in the window.... this is way beyond my meagre photographic skills, but I quite like the effect of the glazing being within the window rather than behind the bars.

 

[28ten]

I wasn't entirely happy with the floor so I have made some nail impressions


its not a huge effect - its not meant to be - but it gives a little variation and i quite like the result

 

[28ten]

I have started tickling the Southern western corner, there is a long way to go yet, but as this will be the most distressed corner/side as it would have been subject to both sun and rain. the rear will have more slime/moss effects.
I have found some good reference of wooden signal boxes in WR signalling by Kevin Robertson and the paintwork is only meant to be about 10-15 years old so i need to show restraint and not over do it it would be easy to get carried away and finish it like a US logging diorama


This is first base, I have only really worked on the upright, which is starting to look quite rotten. The sill will get similar treatment, but a little more dried out and lighter in colour. The majority of the paintwork will just be peeling and faded with some GWR stone showing through in places

 

[28ten]

I felt that i had gone a little too enthustically so the front has been toned down a little


this is a little work in progress on the porch

 

[28ten]

After a bit of thinking the base of the roof is done.


I hadn't intended to model the roof joists but seeing as i was at it.... i don't intend for the roof to be removable as such but i do need to get access for the rest of the construction.
a quick glimpse



This is a reject, but it shows it a little more clearly


and a few more rejects... although I thought CAD and rapid prototyping was supposed to eliminate this

 

[Dog Star]

Why are you rejecting the roof parts in the picture? And how wiil you change the CAD and laser work to avoid further rejects?

Nice piece of work - regards, Graham

 

[28ten]

Design issues for example two slots instead of one, or moving something 1/2 mm for clearance. You never really know until you build up the parts. This isn't intended to be a kit, but I do like to get things designed nicely.

 

[28ten]

To amplify on that this is a series of shots showing the four versions

First version on the left.


From the underside, again first on the left. I decided that I might as well add the internal planking, just because I could and its dead easy to do, but at this stage I was planning on the joists being fixed to the main building, however I heed to get access to the interior for all the details so not a good idea

Version 3 on the left and final in the right. I decide to add the porch to the roof so I could lift the whole lot off in one shot, you will also see I changed the slot and tab method to provide a little more support

from the underside, mk 3 on the left, final on the right. essentially the same but testing showed that the clearance was a little tight so the joists in the porch were adjusted by .75mm

Fortunately, this is where having your own machine pays dividends allowing experimentation without incurring setup costs.

 

[Dog Star]

Thank you for explaining... makes sense and shows how deisgn develops.

regards, Graham

 

[westernfan]

Looking forward to the lever frame detail and the modelled frying pan and kettle on top of the wood burner . Isnt there a model house at Pendon that has a book shelf with books that actually have pages ? So in 1/32 just imagine what detail can be achieved even dust between the floor boards. Also impressed with the laser cut window frames oh well back to my stanley blade and metal set square

 

[28ten]

this si the first shot at a fully glazed frame. Five individual panes glued into the frame, weathering etc yet to be added, but I think it is a practical solution in this scale and I shall push on and hopefully refine the idea.

Looking forward to the lever frame detail and the modelled frying pan and kettle on top of the wood burner . Isnt there a model house at Pendon that has a book shelf with books that actually have pages ? So in 1/32 just imagine what detail can be achieved even dust between the floor boards. Also impressed with the laser cut window frames oh well back to my stanley blade and metal set square

the frame and token instrument will be 3d printed as nobody makes them in 1/32. yes I have plans for a kettle and other assorted bits, fortunately there are some 1/35 diorama accessories that can be pressed into service

 

[lancer1027]

Thats most impressive Cynric

 

[jamiepage]

Guv'nor, what did you use to glue the glazing? Or was it a push fit?

 

[28ten]

Push fit and roket odourless cyano, which doesn't fog the glazing

 

[Dan Randall]

Hi Cynric

The individual panes are a great idea and with five different facets, they'll hopefully catch the light in prototypical fashion, something a single piece of glazing falls down on.

By the way, whatever happened to your Regan's Yard diorama - did you finish it?


Regards

Dan