DJH 9F 2-10-0

mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
There is no instruction plate per'se, there is a scoop in and out indicator plate which is mounted next to the scoop position indicator.

In simple terms the plate is fixed below the water scoop handle by a distance roughly equal to it's size, so if the plate is 5 mm long then it's fitted 5 mm below the handle centre line.
 
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oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Gottit, Mick. And many thanks. I've relied on your collection of photos throughout this build, and while my detailing would not satisfy you it's helped enormously at all stages of the build, lately with the detail of the painting. I couldn't locate the "scoop in and out" plate on the tender photos because the tender door was in the way.

Brian
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I think you'll also find it has been removed as it's fitted to a larger plate that covers the scoop handle mechanism, such that when it's all removed a new blanking cover plate is fitted; this covers the scoop indicator slot and the bearing where the handle would go.

I don't know or cannot recall if the scoop mechanism is still extant on Evening Star, it appears not to be on other preserved 9F's, hence no indicator plate either.

MD
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick. I now understand that.

As I've built the loco it has the scoop mechanism, so I'll fit the plate. In fact, in all my photos of 9Fs, and two specialist books, there are no photos of the tender front on.

Much appreciate your help.

In other areas of the workshop all plates have received their first coat of black prior to rubbing off the raised lettering for the brass plates and, for the others, finding a way to paint the raised lettering in white. That's still WIP.

Otherwise, still to do: paint buffer beams red (already undercoated in white), cut and fit glazing, finish painting and fit side windows including sliding windows, finish detail painting of back head and other cab interior components including seats etc, and then fit the backhead, fit buffers and couplings (already chemically blackened), fit heating and vacuum flexible pipework, fit smoke deflectors and smokebox door once the smoke deflectors are secure and finally reunite chassis with bogie and loco and tender bodies to their chassis. I suppose I ought to paint and fit the crew, although people painting is not my strong point (many would say that painting anything is not my strong point). I guess that, with all the fiddling about that's about two afternoons work, and I always underestimate timescales and the time it takes for paint to dry, so let's say it'll be finished early next week.

Hooray! That's another off the bench.

Then boo! It's back to the dreaded K. (With occasional bits of Finney A3 construction when I'm overcome with emotion)...........



Brian
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
That's interesting but not surprising. As the model is in mid 60s condition the scoop will be correct, but thanks for providing today's new information snippet!

B
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Health warning. Warren had better look away NOW!:)

This build has had the gestation period of two elephants, but I suppose with a house move and workshop build between starting and finishing it's maybe not too surprising. However, the project is now complete so here are the promised photos.

100_0486 - Copy.JPG 100_0487 - Copy.JPG 100_0488 - Copy.JPG 100_0490 - Copy.JPG 100_0491 - Copy.JPG 100_0493 - Copy.JPG 100_0494 - Copy.JPG 100_0495 - Copy.JPG
My critique is this: Hand lining - could do better. This was the first effort with a bow pen and those corners could do with smartening up. One of the verticals on the tender isn't....erm.... vertical either. The orange lines on one tender side are variable in width as well, which I'll put down to my lack of familiarity with a bow pen, but we all have to start somewhere, don't we? However, I couldn't face stripping the whole thing down and starting again, so it is what it is. Overall I'm reasonably happy with the paint finish, although there are one or two grollies.

I reckon the gap between loco and tender may be bit too big, but as this loco will work for it's living on the club layout it'll have to go round corners. I'll start with this drawbar. I have a longer and shorter one made up so that is an adjustment easily made.

This is the first time I've included the pipework between loco and tender, and I'm quite pleased with that. I'm also happy with the bright pipework on the whole, and the cab detailing worked very well, but although I tried to get the camera in there to take a photo it was a step too far.

Inevitably there are one or two other areas ripe for improvement, but I reckon I can scam my way past those.

On the whole I'm pleased with this first effort out of my new workshop and it's been a pleasure to actually get back to some model building again.

Brian
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Brian,

Permanent black felt tip on the brass Slaters wheel bushes! Particularly the pony truck!

Looks great, I'd love a (black) 9F and a load of Summers bogies, but not my era.

Best
Simon
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Simon - that's a good call! I forgot all about that.

Not a problem. I can deal with it at club tonight.

In fact I'd have much preferred to make a black 9F, but club asked for Evening Star and hand lining. So it's ALL THEIR FAULT!!:)

Actually, it'd been good practice. The third loco I've hand lined and the first using a bow pen, and not a very good one at that. (The Haff arrived today!) I'm hopeful that the next one will show further improvement.

Brian
 
P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
oldravendale said:
Health warning. Warren had better look away NOW!:)

This build has had the gestation period of two elephants, but I suppose with a house move and workshop build between starting and finishing it's maybe not too surprising. However, the project is now complete so here are the promised photos.

View attachment 76712 View attachment 76713 View attachment 76714 View attachment 76715 View attachment 76716 View attachment 76717 View attachment 76718 View attachment 76719
My critique is this: Hand lining - could do better. This was the first effort with a bow pen and those corners could do with smartening up. One of the verticals on the tender isn't....erm.... vertical either. The orange lines on one tender side are variable in width as well, which I'll put down to my lack of familiarity with a bow pen, but we all have to start somewhere, don't we? However, I couldn't face stripping the whole thing down and starting again, so it is what it is. Overall I'm reasonably happy with the paint finish, although there are one or two grollies.

I reckon the gap between loco and tender may be bit too big, but as this loco will work for it's living on the club layout it'll have to go round corners. I'll start with this drawbar. I have a longer and shorter one made up so that is an adjustment easily made.

This is the first time I've included the pipework between loco and tender, and I'm quite pleased with that. I'm also happy with the bright pipework on the whole, and the cab detailing worked very well, but although I tried to get the camera in there to take a photo it was a step too far.

Inevitably there are one or two other areas ripe for improvement, but I reckon I can scam my way past those.

On the whole I'm pleased with this first effort out of my new workshop and it's been a pleasure to actually get back to some model building again.

Brian
Click to expand...

Hi Brian,
That's an honest critique of the built, which I have enjoyed reading .

On a pedantic note I would just like to correct you on the name of the tool you have used for the lining. Like most modellers and some of the professional painters, you refer to it as a bow pen.

A bow pen would be a small bow compass with a pen attachment. This could be used for offset lining (on running plate valances for example), but unless you were to over tighten the joint, there would be a danger that the gap could widen and the line would go adrift.

The tool that is commonly used for offset lining is a spring bow compass with a pen attachment (spring bow pen). This has a screw adjuster between the compass legs to set and hold the gap.

The tool that is used for painting straight lines, against a straight edge is a drawing pen or ruling pen, not a bow pen. Indeed if you look on the Haff website you will see that they refer to these instruments as drawing pens. Pedantic rant over.

Cheers.,
Peter
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thanks for that correction, Peter. I'll try to remember next time!

The loco was well received tonight at club. However, some kind soul pointed out that it should have a copper capped chimney.......:headbang:

B
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
In preparation for the touching up to give the loco the chimney it needs I've been looking at colour photos. Not being a GWR aficionado I don't have definitive evidence, but it looks as though the chimney cap is brass, not copper. Is that a trick of the light (in all the photos I've looked at) or should I be painting the top of the chimney brass?

Brian
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dad,
Don't paint it! It'll look like paint.

Give me a couple of days and I'll give you details of a metallized wax, that will look like metal if applied over black.

Steph
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I've always thought it was copper, my notes say copper, all my books say copper but if proof is needed then see below.

IMG_3911c.JPG

Note change in colour between chimney cap and spectacle plate beading which is brass.

Close up

IMG_3828.JPG

Chimney cap is copper as is the clack valve supply pipe, nameplate, commemorative plaque and front number plate numbers are brass.

I think the number plate numbers are individual and brass from original, but painted white at some point during BR days, but importantly they seem to be white all over, I.E. removed and painted white, as opposed the more common just painting the face white and leaving the sides black as on cast number plates; though that seems to vary with region, works and even depots. Dundee had a spate of painting nameplate and I think the odd number plate background light blue, not sure if Haymarket followed suite.

All pipework when built and sent into service was engine colour, that above the footplate was engine green, that below was gloss black. Polished pipework came later when it gained more celebrity status.

Brian, it's copper mate ;)
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thanks for both bits of advice.

Mick - copper it is!

That bare metal foil looks good too, and at £6.99 from Hannants won't break the bank. I'll probably have to build some more GWR locos to use up the rest of the sheet. :rolleyes: In fact this product looks as though it would be useful for "copperising" castings etc which may be supplied in white metal or brass. That's well worth a thought.

I'll see what Steph comes up with later and then make a decision, but the help is truly valuable.

Brian
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dad,
That's a tricky shape to use bare foil on, especially for your first go at using it.

If there aren't any postal restrictions I'll send you the wax next week.

Steph
 
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