Elmham Market in EM

[James Spooner]

Exactly.

Is there another hole in one of the beams, and a matching hole in one of the frames? Maybe only small, for a bit of wire?

That would indicate that the kit designer thought of it before me

No, sadly not. Back to your initial suggestion I think. Currently visiting family in Yorkshire until Monday so will attack it on my return.

Nigel

 

[Herb Garden]

Exactly.

Is there another hole in one of the beams, and a matching hole in one of the frames? Maybe only small, for a bit of wire?

That would indicate that the kit designer thought of it before me

There is.... At least on mine

 

[James Spooner]

Exactly.

Is there another hole in one of the beams, and a matching hole in one of the frames? Maybe only small, for a bit of wire?

That would indicate that the kit designer thought of it before me

No, nothing of that ilk so I don’t think so…

 

[James Spooner]

I have attacked the chassis again on my return from Yorkshire. Whilst there were some holes in the chassis, they were for the brake rigging to go through, not for any compensation reasons and the beams have elongated slots to allow them to move when the rigging is in place. Accordingly I followed the suggestion from @simond and tightened the bolt holding the compensation beam on one side.

I made up the coupling rods and got to a point where the chassis rolled very sweetly, so made up and fitted the brake rigging. I used elements from both the 52F chassis kit and from the original Gibson kit as the latter had moulded plastic brake hangars and blocks (rather than etched nickel silver) and I felt the plastic was likely to give me better protection against shorts.

Having got to this stage the chassis then failed to run sweetly any more and it is getting late so I will stop there and try to resolve the running problem tomorrow before trying to progress any further. A photo of the current state of affairs is attached.

Nigel

 

[Stevers]

One of the carrying wheel sets could be arranged to merely rock to give longitudinal stability, with the other one sprung. I've done something not dissimilar with a Maunsell W where the pony truck and driving wheels are compensated and the trailing bogie is sprung. Similarly my LBSCR I3 is compensated as a 4-4-0 on the Sharman principle, with that inconvenient trailing radial axle just sprung.

The GWR 14xx I built for a friend had twin beams on the driving wheels and a carrying wheelset that was centrally sprung. That glides along very smoothly (with an early and silent Portescap), and on that basis I wouldn't rule out the option of springing both ends!

 

[simond]

One of the carrying wheel sets could be arranged to merely rock to give longitudinal stability, with the other one sprung. I've done something not dissimilar with a Maunsell W where the pony truck and driving wheels are compensated and the trailing bogie is sprung. Similarly my LBSCR I3 is compensated as a 4-4-0 on the Sharman principle, with that inconvenient trailing radial axle just sprung.

The GWR 14xx I built for a friend had twin beams on the driving wheels and a carrying wheelset that was centrally sprung. That glides along very smoothly (with an early and silent Portescap), and on that basis I wouldn't rule out the option of springing both ends!

I came to a similar conclusion with a Springside 14xx though the central pivot for the carrying axle was fixed, this worked well. I’d be concerned that any attempt to spring both ends will end up as a nodding dog.

Dapol fix two axleboxes on one side of their 0 gauge wagons. The boxes on the other side are supported by a rocking beam as I suggested to Nigel for his loco. It’ll work very well, I think.

 

[James Spooner]

Thanks both for your thoughts and comments. I have gone with Simon’s original suggestion of fixing one side of the drivers and letting the other side float with some light springing on the pony trucks to keep them in contact with the rails. The resistance last night was due to brake blocks intermittently binding so they have been pared back and the chassis runs freely again.

George (he of the Herb Garden) has kindly shared details of the F4/5/6 cab interiors and this is one area where the kit is showing its age. I have started measuring and cutting some plasticard to create a more complete interior. I’m not sure it will be totally complete due to my greediness with the size of motor (left over from a failed attempt to squeeze a large power unit into a Blacksmiths Claud) but, as I can’t see much in the cab of the G5 I fully detailed, I don’t think it will notice! Nothing has been glued in yet, just placed in to test for fit before adding more details…

A couple of photos attached.

Nigel

 

[James Spooner]

I’ve been plugging away at the cab interior this evening. I am content with the detailing on the back sheet which matches the drawing and is the most visible element through the cab doors. The front part has caused some head scratching as, to be honest, I don’t think the cast back head for the boiler was designed for this loco. Maybe it was the J15 blackhead reused? I don’t know but having created the driver’s seat and the splasher covers, according to the drawing (whose dimensions match the overall inside of the cab in the kit), the back head sits far too high. I have therefore carefully cut the reverser off the casting (this will need an extension and a wheel adding later before being glued in) and trimmed the side wings down to lower the back head to an acceptable place. I think I have a wheel somewhere in a stash so will start hunting for it. In the meantime, a couple of photos showing progress to date.

Nigel

 

[Herb Garden]

I’ve been plugging away at the cab interior this evening. I am content with the detailing on the back sheet which matches the drawing and is the most visible element through the cab doors. The front part has caused some head scratching as, to be honest, I don’t think the cast back head for the boiler was designed for this loco. Maybe it was the J15 blackhead reused? I don’t know but having created the driver’s seat and the splasher covers, according to the drawing (whose dimensions match the overall inside of the cab in the kit), the back head sits far too high. I have therefore carefully cut the reverser off the casting (this will need an extension and a wheel adding later before being glued in) and trimmed the side wings down to lower the back head to an acceptable place. I think I have a wheel somewhere in a stash so will start hunting for it. In the meantime, a couple of photos showing progress to date.

Nigel

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I thought you said you weren't detailing the inside of the cab? You are certainly a wizard with plasticard

 

[James Spooner]

I thought you said you weren't detailing the inside of the cab? You are certainly a wizard with plasticard

Yes, you are quite right but once I started, it all just seemed to run away with me! Thanks for the compliment but the photos cruelly magnify the flaws. I’m mulling over whether to do the vacuum ejector in any detail. The problem is with all of those windows all around the cab, these things do show more than in a cab, say, of a G5. ‍♂️

 

[AJC]

I would bet on that being a J15 blackhead. His LSWR O2 had the same, I think. The instructions certainly included a drawing of the inside of a J15 cab (with the screw reverser tippexed out - O2s have a lever: there was no lever in the box…).

Looking very good, I must say.

Adam

 

[James Spooner]

The last few days have been spent trying to restore some order to the garden and so modelling has perforce taken a bit of a back seat. However, this evening, with the lowering clouds and intermittent drizzle, I have returned to my workbench and I think I have added enough cab detail to the F6 to make it look reasonable (especially when the cab roof is on and the windows are glazed. I couldn’t find a spare brake standard and, being rather impatient, made a representation out of plastic rod and brass wire. The ejector was quite prominent so I made one up from bits of copper tube and different sizes of brass wire. The reversing wheel was made out of 0.33mm brass wire, although if I’m honest I’m not entirely happy with it. I’ll decide in the morning whether I can live with it or improve on it. Pressure gauges were plastic rod cut down into slithers and glued in place.

A couple of photos attached.

Nigel

 

[Herb Garden]

The last few days have been spent trying to restore some order to the garden and so modelling has perforce taken a bit of a back seat. However, this evening, with the lowering clouds and intermittent drizzle, I have returned to my workbench and I think I have added enough cab detail to the F6 to make it look reasonable (especially when the cab roof is on and the windows are glazed. I couldn’t find a spare brake standard and, being rather impatient, made a representation out of plastic rod and brass wire. The ejector was quite prominent so I made one up from bits of copper tube and different sizes of brass wire. The reversing wheel was made out of 0.33mm brass wire, although if I’m honest I’m not entirely happy with it. I’ll decide in the morning whether I can live with it or improve on it. Pressure gauges were plastic rod cut down into slithers and glued in place.

A couple of photos attached.

Nigel


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Nigel you are an artisan! I am in awe, that interior is simply beautiful

 

[James Spooner]

Nigel you are an artisan! I am in awe, that interior is simply beautiful

George, you are very kind!

Nigel

 

[paulc]

The last few days have been spent trying to restore some order to the garden and so modelling has perforce taken a bit of a back seat. However, this evening, with the lowering clouds and intermittent drizzle, I have returned to my workbench and I think I have added enough cab detail to the F6 to make it look reasonable (especially when the cab roof is on and the windows are glazed. I couldn’t find a spare brake standard and, being rather impatient, made a representation out of plastic rod and brass wire. The ejector was quite prominent so I made one up from bits of copper tube and different sizes of brass wire. The reversing wheel was made out of 0.33mm brass wire, although if I’m honest I’m not entirely happy with it. I’ll decide in the morning whether I can live with it or improve on it. Pressure gauges were plastic rod cut down into slithers and glued in place.

A couple of photos attached.

Nigel


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Hi Nigel , wow there's a lot of stuff in that cab and i bet a kitchen sink as well somewhere although not under the overhead cupboard where i thought it should be . Nice job .

 

[James Spooner]

Not much modelling recently as the grandchildren have been down to visit for a few days and now in Wales living the dream again. Here is Blanche being lit up at Glanypwll shed. There can’t be many heritage railways where steam engines are regularly lit up at three separate sheds on a regular basis…

Nigel

 

[James Spooner]

Today’s steed, with targa top fitted in anticipation of some good old fashioned Welsh liquid sun…

Nigel

 

[Dave Holt]

Marvellous.

 

[James Spooner]

Back home from Wales now and I have returned to the workbench. I primed the cab interior and have now given it a coat of paint. I suspect that is as far as I will go because once the windows are glazed and the roof on visibility will be quite limited (although, having said that, looking at the photos I might add some coal in the entrance to the bunker). A couple of photos attached.

Nigel

 

[David Waite]

That interior look magic, it’s surprising how a coat of paint brings out the different shapes.
David.