S
SteveO
Guest
And I'll have the 31/0 and 03 depending on price
7mm Fettling Madness (If it ain't broke - fix it!)
- Thread starter Stu Fox
- Start date
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
So in the meantime... be the first in Scunthorpe to start a WB thread on WT!
Former PWP
Stu Fox
Western Thunderer
Thanks David.
Well talking of Mr Parkin, this next section is entirely inspired by his fantastic 08 kit. When I did the cab for this kit it came with a wonderful set of etches for a cooker as here -
Top left.
So having experience of this build I decided that the desk on the 47 was woeful in it's detail. Therefore I decided to have a go at scratchbuilding my own cookers and improve the desks as much as I could.
Unfortunately the single casting is wrong in that the cooker and secondman's side should be separate rather than a single casting as here -
You can see the cooker ring represented by a raised round area about 2 thirds to the left. Also wrong was the train brake unit; it was too tall, the one on 47's are a low profile Davis and Metcalfe unit with a handle that angles upward. The straight air brake is ok, the horn is just 0.7mm wire but there is also another 'handle' represented in the instructions
- I assume this is a 'hangover' from a 31 kit with EQ braking maybe? Power handle and direction controller are OK as is the switch panel and dial layout (with mine still having the boiler gauge active
). I decided to leave the whole as a single casting to ease fitting. Anyway I sourced some brass from scrap etches as shown:
These bits along with very fine fuse wire would form the basis of the cooker builds. Here they are with the bodies formed and the support ring strapping soldered in place. I also at this stage curled up the fusewire into a piggy tail to represent the rings -
I apologise at this stage for the quality of the images. The wee camera I use just can't quite capture the detail. My wife wants to take some 'macro' shots of the cabs tonight as practice for her photography (posh camera) so stay tooned . To give some idea of scale, all the bits are on a white ceramic 6" tile.
Below is the completed 2 cookers waiting to go onto the desks. They measure about 10mm wide, 6mm deep by 8mm high (approx
). I have also represented the rotary switch on the front with a tiny bit of etch in a pre-drilled hole -
All altered DJH items and my scratchbuilt bits were then added to the castings. I also made a tea can out of white metal with wire handle, a BR issue driver's bag (lid closed, handles folded) - those who have first hand experience of these may recognise it (to others it may look like a ladies handbag
) and a tin of 'Golden Virginia' tobacco seen with this camera as a square green blob!
... ...Any way here are the images I did with the seating 'propped' in position for effect
-
Again apologies for the eye abuse via the camera - it's getting sorted by Mrs Wonderful later...
Also done for now are the buffer beams with pipework. The pipework was also wrong as shown in the instructions by DJH. They completely omitted the air brake pipe
. Luckily enough lost wax castings are supplied to fit this pipe and cock (above the steam heat pipe). I will still need valve connector's at 'tother end though!
Thanks for reading a long post and best regards
Stu
Well talking of Mr Parkin, this next section is entirely inspired by his fantastic 08 kit. When I did the cab for this kit it came with a wonderful set of etches for a cooker as here -
Top left.
So having experience of this build I decided that the desk on the 47 was woeful in it's detail. Therefore I decided to have a go at scratchbuilding my own cookers and improve the desks as much as I could.
Unfortunately the single casting is wrong in that the cooker and secondman's side should be separate rather than a single casting as here -
You can see the cooker ring represented by a raised round area about 2 thirds to the left. Also wrong was the train brake unit; it was too tall, the one on 47's are a low profile Davis and Metcalfe unit with a handle that angles upward. The straight air brake is ok, the horn is just 0.7mm wire but there is also another 'handle' represented in the instructions
- I assume this is a 'hangover' from a 31 kit with EQ braking maybe? Power handle and direction controller are OK as is the switch panel and dial layout (with mine still having the boiler gauge active). I decided to leave the whole as a single casting to ease fitting. Anyway I sourced some brass from scrap etches as shown:These bits along with very fine fuse wire would form the basis of the cooker builds. Here they are with the bodies formed and the support ring strapping soldered in place. I also at this stage curled up the fusewire into a piggy tail to represent the rings -
I apologise at this stage for the quality of the images. The wee camera I use just can't quite capture the detail. My wife wants to take some 'macro' shots of the cabs tonight as practice for her photography (posh camera) so stay tooned
. To give some idea of scale, all the bits are on a white ceramic 6" tile.Below is the completed 2 cookers waiting to go onto the desks. They measure about 10mm wide, 6mm deep by 8mm high (approx
). I have also represented the rotary switch on the front with a tiny bit of etch in a pre-drilled hole - All altered DJH items and my scratchbuilt bits were then added to the castings. I also made a tea can out of white metal with wire handle, a BR issue driver's bag (lid closed, handles folded) - those who have first hand experience of these may recognise it (to others it may look like a ladies handbag
) and a tin of 'Golden Virginia' tobacco seen with this camera as a square green blob!... ...Any way here are the images I did with the seating 'propped' in position for effect - Again apologies for the eye abuse via the camera - it's getting sorted by Mrs Wonderful later...
Also done for now are the buffer beams with pipework. The pipework was also wrong as shown in the instructions by DJH. They completely omitted the air brake pipe
. Luckily enough lost wax castings are supplied to fit this pipe and cock (above the steam heat pipe). I will still need valve connector's at 'tother end though!Thanks for reading a long post and best regards
Stu
Stu Fox
Western Thunderer
- Shucks! Good idea though - Watch this space...
OK CRUEL close up time
View attachment 17504
As the initiated will see this is set as a trailing cab (brake/controller positions)...
Both desks from above. In the leading cab I didn't add any switches on the panel as an experiment to see which was best. I'm still not sure? The leading cab is set with the brake in the running/release position and the power handle about 1/3 open.
Regards
Stu
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Pewter is an unknown quantity for me Stu, but maybe Richard (Dikitrici)& one or two others here with DJH experience could advise?
Is it similar low melt quality's to whitemetal ?
Phill
Is it similar low melt quality's to whitemetal ?
Phill
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Tin the brass first in 188° solder, then turn the iron down to around 155-160° and then solder with low melt 145° solder, that way you won't...shouldn't...melt the white metal base, apply the (clean.. if you have any solder on the tip it will transfer to the brass and you'll have to clean it up later) soldering iron to the brass, not the white metal, or which ever part is smaller. But given the size of that lump I'd say your biggest worry will be getting it hot enough to take the 145° solder.
If your soldering a large roof panel on then don't try and solder it all, tin round the edges only and then solder that part, that way you reduce the size of parts that need heating.
The other alternative is one of these new fangled adhesives which seem to hold the parts together for a good long time.
If your soldering a large roof panel on then don't try and solder it all, tin round the edges only and then solder that part, that way you reduce the size of parts that need heating.
The other alternative is one of these new fangled adhesives which seem to hold the parts together for a good long time.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi
I've done a couple of the DJH Warships - and don't they weigh a ton. They come in 2 halves, and I soldered the 2 halves together using a microflame and 100 degree solder, liberally sloshed * with flux. I blobbed * the solder on with a normal iron over the joint, then used the microflame. Theres no risk of melting anything providing that you move the heat away from the model as soon as the solder wicks into the joint. The 'pewter' used has a higher melting point than white metal, so is all round less prone to melt-down.
* These are advanced technical soldering terms.
Now, as to the roof panels; I formed them to exactly the right profile - spending a lot of time making them just so, and glued them on with 24 hour Araldite, taping them in the correct position while they set. This was a messy process, but the clean up afterwards was not very onerous as there's no detail on anything at this stage. The problem with soldering them on is not soldering them on, but adjusting the position if you've got it slightly wrong, which takes a whole lot more heat and can be a downwardly spiralling nightmare.
And if you're concerned that everything should be soldered - ask yourself whether you would solder detail to a JLTRT kit?
Hope this helps.
Richard
I've done a couple of the DJH Warships - and don't they weigh a ton. They come in 2 halves, and I soldered the 2 halves together using a microflame and 100 degree solder, liberally sloshed * with flux. I blobbed * the solder on with a normal iron over the joint, then used the microflame. Theres no risk of melting anything providing that you move the heat away from the model as soon as the solder wicks into the joint. The 'pewter' used has a higher melting point than white metal, so is all round less prone to melt-down.
* These are advanced technical soldering terms.
Now, as to the roof panels; I formed them to exactly the right profile - spending a lot of time making them just so, and glued them on with 24 hour Araldite, taping them in the correct position while they set. This was a messy process, but the clean up afterwards was not very onerous as there's no detail on anything at this stage. The problem with soldering them on is not soldering them on, but adjusting the position if you've got it slightly wrong, which takes a whole lot more heat and can be a downwardly spiralling nightmare.
And if you're concerned that everything should be soldered - ask yourself whether you would solder detail to a JLTRT kit?
Hope this helps.
Richard
Stu Fox
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the help everyone.
Well I actually went ahead and used a micro flame to sweat on the etches (the former being pre-tinned with 145 deg solder). It all went OK ..........ish.............
The main problem was the thin weather strips above the grills - they kept either buckling or slipping under the heat, or, they just would not stick
(we've all been there!)
There are 4 altogether and I've got 3 out of 4 on - the last actually part came off when working on another bit....
Also one nickel silver strip is a bit wonky so that will be altered - apart from that it was actually satisfying and a good learning experience using the flame
I would highly recommend a flame (I didn't even set the instructions or house on fire
I'll post some pics of the result when I 've done all of the etches (2/3 of the way there)...
Regards
Stu
Well I actually went ahead and used a micro flame to sweat on the etches (the former being pre-tinned with 145 deg solder). It all went OK
..........ish.............The main problem was the thin weather strips above the grills - they kept either buckling or slipping under the heat, or, they just would not stick
(we've all been there!)There are 4 altogether and I've got 3 out of 4 on - the last actually part came off when working on another bit
....Also one nickel silver strip is a bit wonky so that will be altered - apart from that it was actually satisfying and a good learning experience using the flame
I would highly recommend a flame (I didn't even set the instructions or house on fire
I'll post some pics of the result when I 've done all of the etches (2/3 of the way there)...
Regards
Stu
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Have to confess to be looking toward doing the same with some of the smaller white metal parts on this new batch of kits I have. Back when I did my 4mm stuf nearly 20 years ago there wasn't the range of adhesives that we have now and I found most had a limited adhesion shelf life
Technology has certainly moved on in that area.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Mick
I only used the 24 hour Araldite to glue the roof panels on. I think the only other use I have for it is in split axle construction.
I would always solder white metal to brass (100 degrees) and use a slower cure superglue for resin or other parts with reasonably snug spigots. I never anneal and rarely tin.
Cheers
Richard
I only used the 24 hour Araldite to glue the roof panels on. I think the only other use I have for it is in split axle construction.
I would always solder white metal to brass (100 degrees) and use a slower cure superglue for resin or other parts with reasonably snug spigots. I never anneal and rarely tin.
Cheers
Richard
alcazar
Guest
But it's OK if you tin the brass first with 145 degree solder. THEN it sticks.
Does anyone know if an RSU would be any good on a whitemetal/pewter body?
Richard: did I ever ask you how you went about drilling holes for the handrails by the doors on the warship? They are vertical but in a shallow depression...
Does anyone know if an RSU would be any good on a whitemetal/pewter body?
Richard: did I ever ask you how you went about drilling holes for the handrails by the doors on the warship? They are vertical but in a shallow depression...
garethevans1986
Western Thunderer
Your missing one thing from those cabs.....the brick in the cooker - it reduced the amount of rattle.
GE
GE