Finescale - of a sort?!

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thanks JB and Giles.

Here is a cribbed, cropped and much enlarged pic of the prototype.

It shows that there is nothing more than a gudgeon pin and a wee nipple on each of the rod ends. Easy to replicate, but I am not sure if they might be a snagging hazard?

Plastic rod would bend or snap off rather than hurt I assume, so I will probably be unable to resist fitting them before applying the paint!


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Although I have got to pick up some more plywood sheet in order to finish the con rods, I shall in the meantime have a bit of fun carving out that packing gland/slidebar mount casting?

It would be nice to get all the gear running sweetly BEFORE next Christmas!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
This weekend is going to be a bit hectic, so rather than watching paint dry, I thought I'd post now while I'm sitting down with a cuppa!

Another bit of this build that I was not particularly looking forward to was the coupling/buffing plates.

On the original loco's there were large iron, shallow D shaped castings bolted to the fore and aft buffer beams. Early in the history of the Horwich system (when the little tenders were added) the front ones were replaced with a revised pattern that included a hole for their "towbar" type coupling. These castings will serve a dual function on the model, for not only will they fulfil their intended purpose as couplers, but they will add a great deal of strength to the MDF frame structure.

These items will have to take a bit of a bashing in use, so carving them out of a decent hardwood was my only option. To explain the story, here is a little digression:

A few years ago, I decided to have a go at building an old fashioned pond yacht. Strangely perhaps, this all came about as a result of acquiring a beautiful offcut of wood (some kind of Walnut I believe) that had been destined for the burner. The hungry fire's appetite was appeased with a chunk of rotten pine fence post in exchange!

It was not only a gorgeous looking piece of timber with a stunning colour and grain, but despite being a complete novice, thankfully it was an absolute delight to cut, chisel, plane and fettle!

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As a postscript, she had her maiden voyage at Crowborough, alongside my niece's "Skipper" yacht. By pure luck, the boat turned out to be so finely balanced that the pair sailed and turned in perfect unison around the lake. A couple had stopped to watch, and after a while the gentleman came over to me and asked;

"OK, where are you hiding the radio control then?"

"They are free-sailing!" I chuckled.

"Nah, come off it mate, you're kidding me.. come on.. WHO IS steering them then?"

I think I was as incredulous as he was really!

Flushed with success, and with a notion of making a couple of little racing dinghies, plus the cheek of the devil, I returned to the joiners with a request for more of the same or similar offcuts. Far from being offended, the chap told me to open the boot of my car, then he disappeared into the sawmill, appearing moments later with arms full of "Oak"!

He told me that "it always seemed such a pity to just burn all this stuff, and that if I could make something nice out of it; I was more than welcome to it!"

He was so generous that I could hardly refuse, or point out that Oak was far too heavy for a pond yacht!

It now turns out that some of it could be very useful for this project.

So what is the problem?:

Well, I only have one rather worn saw, one plane, with a less than keen blade, and lent out too, so not immediately at hand, one rasp (at least that has got a new cutter!) and a blunt chisel!

And boy, oh boy, that Oak is bloomin' HARD!

The weather has been quite chilly lately, but you couldn't tell that down in my dank, dark cellar. I must have been generating enough heat to warm the house above with the language, let alone the sheer effort?

More or less got there in the end though?!

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The hole for the coupling bar is somewhat smaller than it should be, but I wanted to keep as much "meat" around it as possible. It should still work fine for us, and besides, I REALLY don't fancy having to cut another one if it gets broken!

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Now the pain has at last subsided, I will have to finish filling the rest of the screw heads before I can get some protective coats of paint on!

Pete.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Pete,

Hardwood, especially oak, walnut and elm has such a 'feel' to it when it is cleaned up - almost enough to get the goose bumps going up the back of ones neck. Ah, dream on.............................................

regards

Mike
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Not to mention the smell....

Brilliant stuff!

I have battled with Oak before on a much smaller scale and retired hurt - what you have achieved is really top class. Is the recipient party to all the fun you are having or will he be amazingly surprised as well as pleased as punch on the day he gets to take the controls?

And thank you for the entertainment, as ever.

Simon
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Indeed Mike, I couldn't agree more! It probably sounded as if I was blaming the material, but it was my lack of appropriate tools and experience of using those few available that made the job such a trial!

It does seem a pity that such a beautiful, smooth wood will be painted. But I fear it will have to be soon, if only to stop me from being tempted to keep stroking it!

Thank you too Simon. The little chap is only three and a bit, but he'd got his granddad sussed out as soon as I hung the engineering drawing up on the wall last year! He hasn't seen his engine since the rods were installed, so I'm looking forward to his reaction.

The project will take quite a while to grow, so I hope I can keep up with him! I am thinking that the riding truck/tender will have to be seriously considered as a priority, especially as he is rapidly getting too big for the original plastic "Modified Hall"!

Pete.
 
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unklian

Western Thunderer
Don't know how your budget is going Pete, but the Chad Valley sets have been reduced to 60 quid at Argos ;)

More track, more wheels, more bits ???
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
I'm afraid my financial situation is dire at the moment, but thanks for the hint unklian!

We can never have enough track, and at £60 just for that alone, the amount you get is incredible value!

There is one really important and essential feature missing for our railway; there are no POINTS available. These will be quite difficult to build, not just because of the geometry, but working out how to make the things compatible with the existing plastic rails. My first idea of chopping up and combining straights and curves would perhaps be the easiest method, but would use up quite a lot of rail stock!

I have already done full size drawings for a completely home made design, but as yet I'm not entirely happy about making it effective and durable enough.

The irony is that when I get round to the solution, the material costs of DIY will probably end up almost as much as buying a completely new box set from my local (ten minutes walk away) Argos?!

Pete.
 

Ian G

Western Thunderer
I Bought my son one of these Chad Valley sets for Christmas this year, I have seen these at car boots but extra track is easy to make for the garden.

Ian G
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
It would indeed be so much easier Ian, and we have the garden for it too, so it is the ultimate aim. The problem is a perpetually moth ridden wallet! This rather fun "Carpet Railway" is an attempt to make something really nice out of odd bits, bobs and anything that can be begged, scrounged or borrowed!

Beyond the initial investment, I'm very pleased with how far I've got with this strictly "loose change" budget.

Time has been, and will ever be the greatest cost. An awful lot of it as well, but I fear that I'm far too set in my old ways now to let that be a worry though!

"Life is too short - and so am I!"

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
It's only been a couple of weeks since my last update, but it feels like a lifetime! Things have lately been a bit sticky for me, but there is a little progress to show...

My work area has become an absolute tip, and searching for anything usually ends with some nifty footwork to avoid the crashing avalanche! I had promised myself a good clear-up after finishing the previous job, but guess what? The lure of the little engine won instead!

Making the steam chest was one last part that I hadn't yet got round to, and is required before the main frames can be painted. This block affair must be beautifully accurate and square... but I cannot saw a straight line to save my life...

My solution is to cut well outside the line, then use one of those Oak offcuts (with a checked square edge) and file the soft stuff down to the 'ard:

It takes flippin' ages, but is worth the effort?

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Goodness knows how many times I ran up and down the stairs from the cellar - it serves me right, I should have had that clear up and made space to bring the frames to the bench? - to get a precise fit!

Then, having cut the strip into top and front faces, I started on the valve cover...

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The framing for these parts is already glued and screwed to the main frames, so top and front plates were pre drilled and countersunk. Good idea?

Oh dear, I couldn't get a drill bit anywhere near for the essential pilot holes - AND just for good measure, I'd drilled two of the 'oles in direct conflict with existing screws... what a Charlie?

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It was close, but a pin vice in the drill chuck did the trick!

After cutting a gasket and glueing the cover to the front of the block, I had to cut and fit twelve M5 studs.

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And what a tedious job that was!

All those little projecting threads are mighty sharp at the stud ends, so had to be carefully "softened" with needle files and abrasives!

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The cylinder blocks have still got the temporary bolts holding them in place, so that will be another ten to cut and deal with. Unlike the studs, those bolts will still have their heads on, so I wont be able to spin 'em in the drill chuck either?

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And finally, the first coats of bright red Humbrol (sorry, I didn't warn that sunglasses might be needed) paint!

It does seem odd to be applying full gloss to a model, but this is a BIG copy of a VERY SMALL engine!

The enamel is proven to be tough stuff when applied in several coats, and for the vulnerable underframes and buffer beams I shall be slopping it on good and gloopy and thick! I don't need to buy new brushes for that job either!

How mean can I get?

Oh, I nearly forgot to mention: I have today started my long awaited clear up. And guess what I found?

I had already carefully cut and stored all the necessary parts for the wretched steam chest.

And they say exercise delays the onset of senility?!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
It would be nice to think that spring is on the way, but winter has returned and I fancy hibernating!

Some work has been slowly coming on between proper jobs though. I felt the engine could do with a bit of detail in the bare middle section between the frames. It would help to hide the non prototypical motor box and floor too.

After considering and discounting various methods as well as the question of materials, I finally decided to bite the bullet and bend some ply in a jig!

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Happy that this first one was nice and rigid when fully set, I could start on the remaining three.

Incidentally, when I drove the round nails into the block I carefully set them with the heads forming a snug fit for the width of the pre trimmed and smoothed top (curiously referred to as the 'Back-plate') and second leaf, thinking that it would assist with accurate alignment.

All went swimmingly well, with those first two parts glued and slid sideways in to position. Of course, when the clamps came off the completed spring, it was locked firmly into the jig! I did not want to pull the nails out the block, fearing that would make them a bit loose for the rest, so resorted to carefully filing off the heads with the assembly still firmly in situ!

Dummy...!

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This second one of the front pair came out nice and easy!

According to the official drawings, the central shackle (or is it 'buckle'?) is thicker at the bottom, less so at top, and thinnest on each side! I found that I had enough odd scraps of wood strip that were spot on dimensionally, needing only to be cut to length...

Jammy...?!

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The next pair needed to be hollow in order to fit over the motor box frames, and were a bit trickier in the jig!

It would have easy to lay them face down on the flat block surface, but there was a high risk of excess glue squidging out between the leaves and set as solid "snots" before they could be cleaned up!

Great care had to be taken to avoid the narrow stack of sticky leaves pinging across the room when being clamped!

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More on the springs story shortly...

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Peeped out of the kitchen window this morning and lo... Weak and watery sunshine - at last! The birdfeeders were as busy as usual, but "our" Robin has paired up, and the little army of Goldfinches are becoming a bit more quarrelsome than usual.

Might still be a bit premature to hope that the we've seen the last of the bitter Nor' Easterlies for a while?

Back to the other spring story...

Some good old (Ramin?) dowel would do nicely for the scroll ends:

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When set, were shaped, and then very carefully hand drilled with a pin-vice - better to go steady, rather than risk splitting the grain!

They were not drilled all the way through, but just deep enough to locate and glue the cotter pins. (Are they "Gudgeons " this time?)!

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I found that the BFG's toothpicks, of which we have a handy pack were just the right diameter!

Actually, those sticks are normally meant for spiking innocent bits of meat, peppers and other vegetables to make barbeque fare - but are so jolly useful for all manner of other things, no home or workshop should be without them!?

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Once they are painted, and the boiler goes on, I hope that these will be enough to distract the eye?

The leading pair are more complete, and need to stand off the frames a bit to match these. I do not want any muck, tut or wet to build up behind, and want a good, sound glue joint as well, so made up layered fillets.

As the springs will only be viewed at a shallow angle from either side, the fillets should not be seen!

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Sheesh, for just a bit of decoration, these things are quite complicated eh?!

Will I ever learn?

More drilling and dowelling...

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It might have been easier to cut these slots in the second leaf ends BEFORE assembly? But hey, ho, there I go!

At least the plies can be nibbled and sliced out one by one for a reasonably clean cut!

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Finally for the day, making sure that everything is more or less square...

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At this rate, the buds will be well and truly bursting before these are done?!

Pete.
 

Tom Insole

Western Thunderer
Great bit of progress and really starting to look like a step closer to the painting....

All this and we managed to miss one great pun that could have been thrown in, Not once did a picture of said springs get taken from just behind one of the corners of the framework they were to be attached to with a quote "Spring being just around the corner". I guess we had to have at least one that we leaf behind!
 

Giles

Western Thunderer
This is the most delightful model ever..... 25 years ago my brother and i made my niece a land-rover with a sinclair C5 motor in it, and she still treasures it now.... (German driving has improved, mind)

I'm sure this will live for many, many years.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thank you so much Tom and Giles. I am rather hoping that the engine will have an age proofed play value!

Meanwhile, there seem to be whole host of outstanding jobs to do before I can finally get to painting the chassis. I have had a bit of a trial with the cylinder packing gland castings, but before I can tell that tale, here is the last instalment on the springs...

According to the drawings, there are sockets cast into the hornblocks to take three quarter inch bolts for the shackles.

Nothing from my dwindling stock of dowel oddments came anywhere close for size. When completely stuck for solutions, I find the best remedy is a nice cup of tea. Picking up my empty mug, I shuffled toward the kitchen with the intent of putting the kettle on. Somewhere en route, I suddenly remembered the location of another stash of timber that might provide another bit of plunder!

Yep, it did. One more piece of dowel. When offered up to the plans it was absolutely perfect!

I never got round to making that cuppa!

Indeed, when my wife came home later we both searched in vain for my tea mug, in the end declaring it AWOL!

It was eventually discovered, somewhat off-piste, atop the tumble drier!

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The rod may have been just the right size, but it was made of horrible splitty Pine!

Cut to length and drilled, then set up flat on a pane of plate glass, they all looked good so far, if perhaps a bit plain?

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The dry run was fine, but when pulling out the dowels for gluing up, a couple of chunks split off and hid amongst the discarded wood shavings!

Thank goodness for filler?

I was now concerned that this particular pine was proving rather fragile, so rather than use M6 bolts I decided to slowly hand drill shallow holes and glue short dowels in place instead. The nuts turned out to be a comfortable fit, and were superglued for security.

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At last, the full set fitted...

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It will be back to carving Oak for the next parts...!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
My wife bought me a most welcome birthday present last month; a pair of replacement 1'' x 30'' linisher belts. I was able to whizz out the nick in my chisel blade for this slightly more intricate carving!

Good tools do make a difference, but it helps even more if you know how to use them. I don't, but I'm determined to have a go anyway!

It was now time to face the packing glands...

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I was to pay later by not placing two sacrificial strips of wood twixt the workpiece and the albeit smooth vice jaws!

Should have been a little more careful when choosing which bit of Oak to cut too.

So far though, everything seemed to be coming on nicely, albeit rather slowly!

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It was a bit tricky making sure that I didn't let the razor saw cut wander, or go too deep!

I thought I was just about getting away with it up to end of the rough stage...

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The interesting thing about Oak is that it grows round corners! Lovely if you want to make curvy frames or 'knees' for boats, but not so good for straight furniture legs and things!

It is absolute murder trying to cut, plane or chisel with the grain curling off at different angles.

There may have already been an invisible 'shake' running through the timber, or the pressure applied in the vice created one, but a chunk broke off in the same place on both carvings as I was finishing them.

Rats!

More filler to follow folks!

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You can see the missing bit as a flat, just above the piston rod. The one on t'other side is even bigger! It couldn't have happened out of sight at the back could it...?

Oh, no!

One saving grace is that the final part will be fitted in front of the break, and will give me an edge to fill up to.

More of that later...

Pete.
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Peter.

I think you are completely off your trolley, but wonderful and inspiring work! More please.

Having said which, these things tend to become family heirlooms. I built and furnished a dolls house for daughter when she was about three. It is now back with 'er indoors and has been completely refurbished with scale furniture, lighting etc. It's still daughter's and we hope will be loved forever.

Brian
 
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