Finescale - of a sort?!
- Thread starter Peter Insole
- Start date
simond
Western Thunderer
This doesn't really tell us what happens to the wall thickness as the tube is swaged, but given that it starts at 3.5" and "150 wall" (I assume thou) and ends up at 5/8" diameter, simple scaling would give a wall of 27 thou which might not be a million miles out.
I quite like the extrusion process!
you'll have to go to YouTube to watch it
I quite like the extrusion process!
you'll have to go to YouTube to watch it
Last edited:
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Thanks to all for the very interesting replies!
I should have explained that the "trick" for straightening after unrolling was simply to crush flat both ends of the tube, firmly grip one end in a heavy bench vice and a large mole wrench at right angles to the pipe at the other... then give the inside (from the vice end) face of the wrench a really good whack with a hammer! Apparently it appears to work like magic every time?!
Admittedly, having only ordered a one meter length, I've not got an awful lot of waste material to play with - which is another reason for deciding to just do the best I can with what I have!
(part of image taken from an unknown source, and shown here for illustrative purposes only)
The above picture was chosen for scaling the pipe run, as it is probably a finer example of the Horwich coppersmith's work than all the other seven locomotives put together. Most reveal quite a variety manufactured bends - and an awful lot more unintended ones too - so I do have a little leeway!
Fortunately, as you can (sorry, just about!) see in the drawing below, the radii at both ends are reasonably generous - all that is except the bottom curve on the left hand pipe (shown here) - just at the point where it enters the front face of the well tank beneath the running plate!
I can use a tool for that bottom one, but I do quite like the idea of using fine, dry sand inside the pipe to prevent the larger bends from squashing when worked by hand. According to a contemporary published article, the Beyer Peacock specifications called for the use of resin (although I don't recall any mention of what type) to achieve the same end.
There will be a bit of fun, and probably a fair quantity of crisp language to come later, down in the railway workshops here anyway!
Pete.
I should have explained that the "trick" for straightening after unrolling was simply to crush flat both ends of the tube, firmly grip one end in a heavy bench vice and a large mole wrench at right angles to the pipe at the other... then give the inside (from the vice end) face of the wrench a really good whack with a hammer! Apparently it appears to work like magic every time?!
Admittedly, having only ordered a one meter length, I've not got an awful lot of waste material to play with - which is another reason for deciding to just do the best I can with what I have!
(part of image taken from an unknown source, and shown here for illustrative purposes only)
The above picture was chosen for scaling the pipe run, as it is probably a finer example of the Horwich coppersmith's work than all the other seven locomotives put together. Most reveal quite a variety manufactured bends - and an awful lot more unintended ones too - so I do have a little leeway!
Fortunately, as you can (sorry, just about!) see in the drawing below, the radii at both ends are reasonably generous - all that is except the bottom curve on the left hand pipe (shown here) - just at the point where it enters the front face of the well tank beneath the running plate!
I can use a tool for that bottom one, but I do quite like the idea of using fine, dry sand inside the pipe to prevent the larger bends from squashing when worked by hand. According to a contemporary published article, the Beyer Peacock specifications called for the use of resin (although I don't recall any mention of what type) to achieve the same end.
There will be a bit of fun, and probably a fair quantity of crisp language to come later, down in the railway workshops here anyway!
Pete.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Thank you for the tip Fitzroy, it got me on a fascinating search. I think I will pass on it though, as it would appear to be distinctly toxic stuff - and I have to be careful with my own particular health problems nowadays!
I found several references to using salt as an alternative to dry sand, and as that certainly seems to be a much more accessible product - a clandestine raid on the kitchen cupboard is imminent!
Pete.
I found several references to using salt as an alternative to dry sand, and as that certainly seems to be a much more accessible product - a clandestine raid on the kitchen cupboard is imminent!
Pete.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Would beeswax work? It’s easy to melt, for both getting into the pipe and back out.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Thank you Simon for trying to save me from my wayward tendencies.
A domestic crime may have been avoided anyway, as I have just been informed that one of my sons already has some sand... albeit dyed in a delightfully fetching purple shade!
Thank you too Heather! I wouldn't be at all surprised if we have some of that secreted away around here as well! There is quite a lot of "crafty" stuff (arty of course!) going on in our various family households these days.
Pete.
A domestic crime may have been avoided anyway, as I have just been informed that one of my sons already has some sand... albeit dyed in a delightfully fetching purple shade!
Thank you too Heather! I wouldn't be at all surprised if we have some of that secreted away around here as well! There is quite a lot of "crafty" stuff (arty of course!) going on in our various family households these days.
Pete.