7mm Finney Battle of Britain

mickoo

Western Thunderer
The Standards do not look like they are lever operated, I see no linkages on the 9F or Standard five photos I have and there is a smaller third valve with internal pipework feed. I'm going to guess they're steam operated and all three could be from the same manifold.

MD
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Yes, the cylinder cocks are steam operated, but the steam chest works on the pressure admitted and opens at whatever working pressure it's set to which is why you'll hear them working even though the cocks are shut.

The last gala we had was a good learning curve having not spent that much time around std's.

JB.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Little to show over the weekend, just working around the model and adding the finishing bits and making sure they're all done so I can concentrate fully on the backhead.

First up the smoke box door, nice clean affair though the original white metal hinge post was a bit of a mare, after spending a long time cleaning, filing and sanding it broke off...figures! So I drilled for a new post only to not quite drill straight and blow through the side of one of the fixing posts, out came the 1x1 mm bar and a new post made and all was good in the end.
IMG_7960.jpg

I added the small metal spigot just under the dart, it's a post with a recess to hold the locking bar in place and allow the use of both hands to tighten up on the other...thingie, can't remember what it's called now :rolleyes:

IMG_8605.JPG

Just so y'all know what your looking for, it's that bit of metal just below the dart fixing.

The instructions advise 1.0 mm for the handle which I thought a tad over zealous but looking at the picture above, it is a rather hefty affair, I drew the line at drilling the vent holes, there I believe to try and dissipate some of the latent heat that builds up during steaming.

Fitted to engine.
IMG_7995.jpg

Getting there now, not quite sure how to fix the number plate, the smoke box door has a large bulge to it and the number plate doesn't quite sit flat or square, it's basically two long studs which are visible from the sides, not quite sure how to replicate that just yet, I'll ponder over that whilst I fiddle with other sundries, probably drill out the etched stud on the number plate and replace with wire pins and then drill the smoke box accordingly, bit fiddly but the number plate won't drop off then.

Sharp of eye will note some painted bits, it's becoming ever more difficult to keep things clean so bits that need to be fixed now that will be difficult to paint behind are getting a base coat primer to seal them.

As a bit of a folly I had a go at high lighting some of the bright work, rather than mechanically cleaning to get back to bare metal I used cellulose thinners and a very small brush. I could of masked but the theory was that by using thinners you'd get a wash in all the creases as well and save doing that wash later. I don't have time to do much more as the build has to progress, but the diversion was relaxing and reasonably effective for the 30 mins or so of dabbling.

IMG_8001.jpg

Excuse the odd angle, saves turning the monitor on it's side, you can hardly see these two items the right way up and with the body on, but they do catch the light and I do need to do the anti vacuum valve as well, add in the steam cocks it should break up the black area down here.

IMG_8003.jpg

Cruel close up of the power end, the seahorse lube pipe and oil pot are getting there, I was getting the hang of it now, and that's when I knew it was time to stop, can't have too much fun just yet ;)

The cylinder wrapper will get a coat of satin black to give it a little shine once the primer has baked off for a few days.

Onward!

MD
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Impressive as ever!

JB.
I have a great mentor ;)

Actual I was stood admiring your L1 at Telford on Sunday and the gent next to me muttered "that's just too much", "what is" I prodded "individual rivets, working brakes and reverser" he mumbled, followed by "bet he lives in the garden shed with no family life" to which I looked him in the eye and said "Jonathon is a professional high quality photographer living in a flat in London, happily married to a lovely wife with a young son, I'll be sure to pass on your criticism of his work" he didn't say much after that and shuffled off, muppet!

I really don't get people who are so vocally disdainful of others work just because it's of no interest to them.

MD
 
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Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
I have a great mentor ;)

Actual I was stood admiring your L1 at Telford on Sunday and the gent next to me muttered "that's just too much", "what is" I prodded "individual rivets, working brakes and reverser" he mumbled, followed by "bet he lives in the garden shed with no family life" to which I looked him in the eye and said "Jonathon is a professional high quality photographer living in a flat in London, happily married to a lovely wife with a young son, I'll be sure to pass on your criticism of his work" he didn't say much after that and shuffled off, muppet!

I really don't get people who are so vocally disdainful of others work just because it's of no interest to them.

MD

HAHAHA! I've gone all shy..

JB.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Final stage was to squirt some oil onto a surface and liberally coat a cotton bud with said oil, removing the wheels from the water, a quick dry and gentle rub followed by a good drubbing of oil. This I left for five minutes before wiping the excess off and refitted to the axles, also treated the same way.

[
MD

Hi Mick,

what oil do you use/recommend for the best blackening results? Ulay, lavender, violet, baby, 3in1?????:)):)):)):)):)) - just discovered that my Park 0-6-0t wheels have become well rusted overnight, so it might be well to follow your good example - again.

cheers

Mike
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,

what oil do you use/recommend for the best blackening results? Ulay, lavender, violet, baby, 3in1?????:)):)):)):)):)) - just discovered that my Park 0-6-0t wheels have become well rusted overnight, so it might be well to follow your good example - again.

cheers

Mike
Mike,

Well to be honest I'm not sure, it's in an oiling pot I used at BT for lift maintenance and is now 20 years old, one of those quaint tin can ones with the thumb pump and see through nylon spout. The oil was for the brake, motor and sheave pulley bearings, not 3 in 1 but not engine oil either, mind I'd not be adverse to using 5-30W if I'm honest, it's only a protective layer after all.

The trick seems to be to get it on the wheel as soon as it's dry, I didn't mince about, it was dripping off the cotton bud when wiped on the rim, best to try and keep it off the spokes if you can, unless your specifically looking for that oily sheen look, but it is a bit of a dust magnet if it's too thick. I left it like that for about ten minutes or until a few other wheels had been done before wiping lightly with piece of kitchen towel.

So far they are totally rust free, even the front bogie ones which have had the treads shined up a little, I was worried that the fibre brush would take the oil coating off as well, it hasn't but never the less at the weekend the wheels will get a gentle wipe with a smear from a lightly oiled cotton bud to preserve the coating.

Hope that helps

MD
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,

Many thanks for responding with the details. As I said in my Park build post, I shall be attacking the wheels tomorrow and will take some photos - before and after and post them on the thread.

cheers

Mike
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mick, do the wheels still conduct power with the layer of oil on them?
Tim
No idea, don't have a trainset so not really a problem is it ;) That's the beauty of modeling in Static 7 no need to worry about motors or pickup :thumbs:

In reality I'm not sure, oil is an insulant in transformers, as well as a coolant, so technically it should not conduct.

Having made that statement, I've just run a conductivity test across the Delta truck wheels (tread on one side to tread on another part of the wheel) which still have a thin smear of oil on them and it's a patchy circuit, then the same test on the bogie wheels which have been handled and with lightly polished treads and it's perfect continuity.

In the context Mike and myself are working in then oiling the wheels is merely a way of preventing corrosion as the build progresses, wheels and wheel alignment being one of the first steps in the model build, it could then be months even years before the model is finished and used. We all know that Slaters wheels use a steel which appears very susceptible to corrosion once opened.

Once the model is complete and ready for service then it's a simple wipe of the tread, maybe with a degreasant if your overly worried and off you go.

So perhaps it is better to view the oiling as a protective layer between use or for display purposes.

Personally and going back to my first comment, having seen Dannys work on battery power, control, apps on phones and tablets, plus full integration with existing DCC sound modules I've no intention of using, contemplating, designing for track pick up any more. The technology has moved from the white coat lab boys to the serious technophobe recently, but in five or ten years time I think it'll be common place, especially as more youngsters get into the scene and especially guys running outside and garden layouts.

MD
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Guys,

It depends on the oil. I have used oil to treat blackened wheel rims, and there are conductive oils (like Electrolube) used in electrical switchgear.
What I soon found though was that when the wheels are cleaned for running (lighter fluid and a cloth) the lubricants in the lighter fluid seem to do enough to keep the rust at bay.

It's also fair to say that a bit of weight on the wheels and a bit of arcing will soon burn excess oil off the wheels (see my comment on cleaning!).
I don't have great problems with rusty wheels, most of the time I find it only occurs during building, so wonder if it's a problem caused by flux or the close and repeated presence of a large slightly acidic moist blob (i.e. me!).

Steph
 
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