7mm Finney Battle of Britain

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I don't have great problems with rusty wheels, most of the time I find it only occurs during building, so wonder if it's a problem caused by flux or the close...

Steph

Exactly my findings, the minute the wheels get near the work bench and soldering work, aka flux, they rust like crazy.

Paint won't stick all that well either if they are covered in oil, come to think of it, it won't stick at all:)

It won't but there's nothing wrong with giving them a clean before painting and then oil afterward if you wanted, I doubt paint sticks any better to the Slaters wheel plastic right out of the packet, so either way, wheels will need a wash in degreasant or what ever as part of the paint preparation process.

MD
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I've just put the meter across the wheels in turn and get a zero reading on each one - having left them untouched since taking the photos last night, so looks good for putting wiper pick-ups on the top of the treads - I have an aversion to plungers:eek::eek::eek:

cheers

Mike
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
..........repeated presence of a large slightly acidic moist blob (i.e. me!).

Steph

Saw plenty of them at Telford mate, you were definatly not one of 'em mate. :D

Oil on wheels is always needed to stop corrosion while the build is in progress but it's all got to be cleaned off for painting anyway, the tread seems to stay corrosion free with regular running, but I don't paint the backs of the tyre as the thickness of paint can affect running through check rails ( S7) so a thin smear occasionaly on the inside keeps all well.

Col.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
When I'm blackening Slater's wheels I clean the back of the wheels up using a strip of wet'n'dry glued down on a length of flat wood, then clean up the wheel treads up in the lathe using a Geryflex block, you can also clean up the tyre face at the same time. After that I clean up the brass centre with a brass pencil brush, after that it's a wash in Meths. then apply the blacking to the rear and front faces of the tyres and the wheel centres. After that a quick rub over with some steel wool and some WD40 to the back of the wheels then paint (I tend to leave the paint on until I have finished soldering near them). Then pop them back in the lahe to take the paint off the wheel treads.

OzzyO.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Moving glacially onward it's time to tackle the cab and backhead.

This is where I diverted from the instructions and added the mandatory Mickoo dabbling, for no other reason than it made things easier for my style of workflow.

The kit builds up with the backhead floor attached to the chassis and as such has brackets to hold the pipework below the footplate. The cab floor is cleverly split into two, the rear half attached to the cab and body structure, the front under the backhead is attached to the chassis.

IMG_8033.jpg

When attaching the body simply slip over the back head, lower and fix into place, works well but for clumsy clutz like me is a wide open door for C'tain cock up and his merry crew to walk right on it!

Two reasons, working on the backhead whilst attached the frames makes it a bit of a hand full on the work bench, you can off course choose not attach the floor to the chassis until you have completed all of the backhead work and then affix it followed by the underfloor pipework, however you need to think ahead if you take this path as the instructions have you fit the floor and pipework back earlier in the build. There is nothing wrong with this approach if that suits your workflow and it is a testament to the design of the kit that you can rather easily change your build flow to suit your needs.

The second reason is that at this stage of the build, the body is going on and off for instruction photos, pr- painting and continual other works, which makes all of the fine details on the backhead prone to damage from Herr Ten thumbs here!

So what's to do, first off I cut off the brackets designed to hold the under floor pipework and will fabricate a suitable replacement and attach it to the frames, second was to fabricate a new backhead floor fixing bracket that will hold it in the cab. A simple angle bracket was fabricated and associated fixings used to join it to the cab front wall.

IMG_8034.jpg

IMG_8035.jpg

Now the backhead and floor are affixed to the cab and delicate details are all self contained within the cab and protected from Herr Ten thumbs.

The other advantage is that the backhead sub assembly can be worked on with ease on the workbench, a much smaller assembly and easier to manipulate should result in less damage to the rest of the engine and backhead details.

So the whole of this week was spent working out how to build this complex and detailed sub assembly, several parts are only placed into position for the photos, they need to come out either for painting behind, attaching delicate pipework or impact the path of other pipework, there being several layers of pipework to be added.

IMG_8075.jpg

IMG_8076.jpg

IMG_8077.jpg

And the nicely detailed steam manifold, which when fitted is tight up against the roof and a lot of this detail is lost, but I know it's there :thumbs:

IMG_8081.jpg

For the instruction photos the steam manifold is removed as it covers a lot of the small detail parts underneath, once fitted you can see the limited clearances for further detailing and pipework fitting, so this is a sub assembly in it's own right and goes on last.

IMG_8084.jpg

The plan for the rest of the weekend and next week to is to complete the pipework, many of the pipes pass through the floor so associated openings and slots will need drilling out so that the pipes can pass through. The cab is a high detail area so the effort is worth it I feel.

Two things I've noticed, the joint lines on the castings are near invisible to the eye yet the digital camera picks them out like stars in the night sky, second, few light Pacific cabs are the same, so research and pick a cab and then follow that, many today have had modifications that were not present back in the day so builder beware.

As far as I can ascertain, original engines retained their UV cab lighting and thus had black gauge faces with luminous markings, rebuilt engines appear to have gone over to standard lamps and as such have white gauge faces, this engine will have the original UV lighting set up. Beware though, post BR I suspect many preserved engines in original form may well have had their lighting converted to standard lamps and some rebuilt engines had UV gauges fitted, I've not managed to find good cab shots of all the preserved examples yet.

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
62 squadron is being rebuilt not too far from you, and I think it's nearly complete..

JB.
It is indeed and I got some nice frame shots a few years back, I'm also trying to organise a photo shoot of another set of frames for a rebuilt version, just in case the fancy takes me in the future :thumbs:

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Pipework, feels just like the old days when I was a heating and refrigeration engineer, though much smaller and lower temperature fixings :cool:

It took a while but once you get your eye in it can be quite good fun and digital pictures certainly throw up bits that you miss when building, so some areas still need a tweak and there's a few joints that cleaning to get the copper pipework showing as close to the gland as possible.

Driver side
IMG_8086.jpg

Firemans side
IMG_8088.jpg

Rear views
IMG_8089.jpg

IMG_8091.jpg

The steam header manifold is not yet fitted as it covers up a lot of the top area so that comes next with it's associated pipework, ideally you need to paint the top area of the backhead before fitting the header or else you won't get good paint coverage.

A quick test fit inside the cab reveals that the pipework along the drives side of the backhead from the brake assembly causes an issue so will need dressing back to give clearance. It's not visible here but the backhead to cab fixings are slightly out of line due to the pipework clearance, or lack of, mentioned above.

IMG_8104.jpg

IMG_8105.jpg

IMG_8106.jpg

It's a fine line between perfectly smooth and neat pipework and dented and dinged like the real thing, our modelers eye expects it all to be neat and uniform, reality is far from that with much pipework kinked, bent and bashed to fit into place.

Onward!

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Right, steam header manifold plumbed in, most of this will come off again after the instruction photos have been done so difficult areas can be painted, I also want to try and add the lagging on the two large pipes on the firemans side, not quite sure how to achieve that yet.

The steam brake feed pipe isn't centred in the union but that's been corrected now and I've added two unions to the (soon to be) lagged pipes on the firemans side.

C'tain cock up made an appearance as I'd cut one of those pipes too short, so the union hides a joint, they're a little over large for the pipe at the moment but once lagged they should look more in proportion, they're simply 14BA nuts drilled out.

Anyway enough pipework for the weekend, I need to fortify myself before tackling the twenty lubricator pipes.

Just managed two shots in the dying light of the day.

IMG_8113.jpg

IMG_8114.jpg

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Pish! Only 20?.......there's 52 lubricator pipe runs on the Duchess footplate:(

Backhead looks brilliant:thumbs:

Richard
.
Cheers

I'd do the other 20, but the casting only has ten outlets cast on it. I think once you've added the ten each side then it'll look cluttered enough.

I shall count them all when next see the Coronation ;)

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Suitably fortified I tackled the lubricator trays, not as bad as I envisaged but do confess to breathing a big sigh of relief when it was all finished.

Couple of pipes have been dislodged in handling so now it's a tidy up, partial strip down for a coat of paint and lagging of pipes before rebuilding and putting to one side.

IMG_8137.jpg

Toss up between the steam cocks, steam generator or injector pipework next :cool:

MD
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
Is the lagging on the pipes of the asbestos bandage painted with white lead variety ? Would strips of masking tape wound round and painted over look right ?

Just an idea, cheers Ian

PS I am glad I choose older and smaller locos, far less pipework. Awesome job there though Mickoo
 
Top