Giles' misc. Work bench.

[Giles]

Thank you Gents!

I cheat with the paint job. They're painted in a sandy colour - a lightish brown, with white to lighten it, and a little thinners to help it along

https://flic.kr/p/2n5XAJy

https://flic.kr/p/2n5XAjA

Then before it's fully dry, cover it in talc, and thoroughly brush it it everywhere

https://flic.kr/p/2n5W159

Then (no need to wait) brush all the talc back off, to give you your basic effect (plus silky smooth motion)

https://flic.kr/p/2n5UmFq

What you see here is what I have described - nothing more at all (i did this this afternoon..). Tomorrow I shall very subtlety brush some darker brown and some are white very sparingly ( all with the grain) but almost so you wouldn't notice. Painting the steelwork will be next with matt black/gunmetal mix (metalcote). I will then brush in lots of dark brown weathering powder, and work it back off again.

 

[Peter Insole]

Absolutely delightful Giles, as always!

While I was watching your YouTube clip, my wife (who has probably become accustomed/resigned to climbing over and around the two monster mineral wagons in our living room?) peered over my shoulder and asked how big yours are.

"No dear... not how big... how small!" I said, pointing to a similar Humbrol tin on our own coffee table.

"Wow" she exclaimed, smiled, and then gave me a glancing look that spoke many volumes!

Pete,

 

[Simon]

Pete, gneius that you undoubtedly are, I have a feeling that you are also married to a genuine National Treasure.

By the way, you'll need a hell of a lot of those tinlets, and as for the baby powder.....

Simon

 

[Giles]

Yesterday got away from me rather, but I did manage to get a little dry-brushing and blacking done today. Again, after painting, it was talced (New verb.....) any rusting and weathering with powders happens now

https://flic.kr/p/2n6cP4H

 

[AdeMoore]

Those look extremely good Giles. Love the talc tip one I will certainly try in the future.
Ade

 

[Giles]

And the rest of the 4mm tipper story.......

 

[spikey faz]

Brilliant!

 

[john lewsey]

I once gave a talk at a scale 7 meeting on weathering wagons using the same technique.

 

[michael mott]

Those look fantastic Giles!

Michael

 

[steve50]

Thank's for the how to Giles, you make it look so simple! I agonise for days using washes and drybrushing various colours and still end up not satisfied with the result! I will have to give that method a go on a wagon interior I have to do.

 

[Giles]

Finally made up a mechanism to drive the guy. It's a variant of my point motors - a printed cam powered by an N20 gearmotor (12v 60rpm running off 1.5v or so). This one has a larger cam to give me 13mm travel, and the operating wire is bent into and in line with the cam follower slider.
It is crude and could certainly be improved upon - but it is something, anyway.

 

[michael mott]

Giles that is very clever, I wonder if having a heavier set man and a shorter lever fitted in the centre between his solders could achieve the same result. Could the push rod be hidden in the back of his overcoat. It would be interesting to see him do this without the "hand of earth" helping him.

Its only a small gauntlet

Michael

 

[Giles]

'ere be the problem...........

https://flic.kr/p/2n76Bc6

 

[Giles]

Wanting to practise my 3D drawing (I use Design Spark Mechanical from RS), I thought I would draw up the Bagnall Ashanti Diesel for 4mm printing (also for practise). I'm getting better at avoiding the things that upset it (like compound curves.... it will do them, but it doesn't like them.....), and I'm getting much better at getting components places where I want, rather than floating in mid air........

https://flic.kr/p/2n9dh5d

I've also printed an 'assembled' body out on my Mars 2 Pro, using an 'engineering type' resin -according to Amazon. The great benefit is that it's nicely flexible, and in modelling terms pretty unbreakable. This first print isn't perfect, but really not at all bad. There was a problem at the lower portion of the fuel tank on the left hand side, which needed a file to rectify, and a small ridge on the sides, but 30 minutes of cleaning up got it to this

https://flic.kr/p/2n9VgAq

 

[Scale7JB]

Giles, that print looks immaculate. Are there any limits to your talent?

JB.

 

[Giles]

Giles, that print looks immaculate. Are there any limits to your talent?

JB.

Bless you - yes - my bin and scrap bin are full of them!

 

[simond]

There was a photo from a model magazine from my teens, of a heap of scrap brass bits, and a finished model loco.

At the time, I thought "what a waste" but little did I know...

 

[Giles]

A reasonable (but still a reject) print of the frames.

https://flic.kr/p/2nabHuZ

https://flic.kr/p/2na6Cvg

Simon - you know you need one...... (printer, that is!)

 

[Chris Veitch]

Bless you - yes - my bin and scrap bin are full of them!

Thanks for this Giles - that's pretty remarkable. As one who's trying to get his sadly-underused 3D printer going again, are you able to tell us exactly what the resin is? I find the range and choice bewildering and it seems as though it's a bit of a lottery.

I think it was Don Boreham (NG modeller par excellence) who once said that one of a modeller's greatest assets is a large bin and the courage to put stuff in it...

 

[Giles]

Hi Chris - this is the stuff - Eono No engineering like resin

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amazon-Brand-Engineering-Photopolymer-Printers/dp/B091BX1D48/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1LD5W3I5KHGT1&keywords=Eono%2B3d&qid=1648047325&sprefix=eono%25203d%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-9&th=1

The only problem I have is that it sticks really firmly to the build plate!

I still have Don Boreham's book!