Giles' misc. Work bench.

[Pencarrow]

Very impressive Giles and I like that it's just water, no nasty oils or chemicals.

A question for you... If the loco stops with one of the magnets next to the reed switch, does the steam keep going?

Edit: ignore me, just seen a shot very late in the video that confirms it does.

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Giles,

Can you give us an idea of the actual size of the steam generator and controls boards please? I am just starting to prepare parts for a Dock tank and wonder if I could squeeze the gear in.

Ian.

 

[Giles]

Hi Ian

The board is 36 x 19 with the tallest component 11mm. The disc is 20 x 5 inclusive of the silicon rubber mount.

 

[Giles]

Hi Chris,
By its nature, yes you will continue to get steam if the reed switch says 'yes' - however, I plan on controlling the steam from the receiver on this. One thing I have wondered about, but not looked into at all, is whether the sound output from DCC would power the relay. If it did, then that would of course give you the timed chuff, as well as making sure you only got steam at the right time.....

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Hi Ian

The board is 36 x 19 with the tallest component 11mm. The disc is 20 x 5 inclusive of the silicon rubber mount.

Thanks Giles.

I may just manage to fit that in with the board in a tank and the disk at the bottom of the smokebox.

Ian

 

[Giles]

I've now finished the fabrication of of the loco. The parts are generally excellent, but the instructions are poor, referencing photos which do not exist. Really only the LH bunker capping (which is a casting) was too short, and needed surgically extending as invisibly as possible.



I chose to drill out all the embossed rivets and replace them with actual brass rivets soldered in, which took time, but does look better in my opinion.

The only job I have to do is to actually fit and check the rods. And of course paint....





The reed switch mounted on the compensation bar




The brake gear clips on separately




I made new buffer beams front and back, as this will be fitted with chopper couplings, not dumb buffers




Slaters supplied something a bit different to fit for a catch, so a bit of scrap....

 

[bambuko]

....I chose to drill out all the embossed rivets and replace them with actual brass rivets soldered in, which took time, but does look better in my opinion...

It certainly does look better (in my opinion )

 

[Giles]

This afternoon I trial-fitted the coupling rods - and all is well there. So a coat of primer followed

https://flic.kr/p/2ptefXg

https://flic.kr/p/2ptiUG5

 

[Giles]

Incidentally, this is the back of the mister PCB, with notes as to where to connect

https://flic.kr/p/2psNzL2

 

[Dan Randall]

Hi Giles

I ordered a few misters to experiment with - am I right in thinking, that they’re to be used with distilled water only please?


Regards

Dan

 

[Giles]

Distilled is probably best, especially if one is building the unit into a loco (the cleaner the better, and less maintenance) - but the mister will work with any water. I would have thought it's about cleanliness, not clogging up the minute holes in the disc, and possibly not getting too many waterborne nasties airborne!

 

[Dan Randall]

Distilled is probably best, especially if one is building the unit into a loco (the cleaner the better, and less maintenance) - but the mister will work with any water. I would have thought it's about cleanliness, not clogging up the minute holes in the disc, and possibly not getting too many waterborne nasties airborne!

Great - thanks Giles!


Regards

Dan

 

[Fitzroy]

The loco is looking just fantastic. Such a shame to paint it! What sizes of rivets did you use? One thought I have is to minimise the amount of paint going on it, especially as the original surface is so pristine, why not use a black rather than grey primer, if you can get it.

 

[Osgood]

I’ve found (1/1 scale) that if primer is same colour as topcoat it is almost impossible to see if it has all been adequately covered with topcoat.

 

[Giles]

The loco is looking just fantastic. Such a shame to paint it! What sizes of rivets did you use? One thought I have is to minimise the amount of paint going on it, especially as the original surface is so pristine, why not use a black rather than grey primer, if you can get it.

These are 1/8" brass brads from Hobby.UK.com and very nice they are - although they do add to the labour!

The paint will be fine- I will rub the primer down ..... it'll all come out in the wash!

 

[Giles]

Now with its paint on - but not weathering! Still needs wheels pulling back on, and also the blower pipe fitting

 

[Giles]

Construction is complete - weathering to be done. For the moment at least, the steam is permanently 'on' and we will see how that goes.



I added a balance pipe to the tank, which Slaters never mention. I suspect the real one has lost hers as she isn't in running order, but she would have had one, as I can't imagine a saddle-tank, without. I still havecouplings to fit of course. These have been printed.

 

[PhilH]

Masterful work as usual Giles.

The tank balance pipe was situated near the front end of the tank:

​

 

[Giles]

Ah... I put it in Holy War's position, which was hust forward of the spring...... I can move it at next boiler off....

 

[Dave Holt]

Who needs track?!
Dave.