Giles' misc. Work bench.
- Thread starter Giles
- Start date
Giles
Western Thunderer
Over the last few years I find I have acquired three Bachmann Baldwins...... I have no idea how it happened, of course. Having had a slight pause over the last few days, and also having received in the post a decoder I ordered a very long time ago, and had completely forgotten about, I took it upon myself to fit the final decoder, and polish, paint, fit couplings to etc. the two locos that hadn't already received the treatment.
It's all good therapy.
Both locos had copperwork and brasswork done (all suitably heat-stained), whistle cords fitted etc.....
When it came to polishing, I normally flat panels with 2000 wet and dry, but this is only viable down to a certain size. The sides of the tanks were done , but that was all. The rest of the loco was done mostly by wetting a cotton bud on a small wad of Brasso, and polishing with that - which worked very well. I worked in the direction of gravity, and allowed the bottom of panels (in particular) to remain un polished, giving a dirt-build-up appearance. On the whole it went well.
This loco has the least weathering of the three
It's all good therapy.
Both locos had copperwork and brasswork done (all suitably heat-stained), whistle cords fitted etc.....
When it came to polishing, I normally flat panels with 2000 wet and dry, but this is only viable down to a certain size. The sides of the tanks were done , but that was all. The rest of the loco was done mostly by wetting a cotton bud on a small wad of Brasso, and polishing with that - which worked very well. I worked in the direction of gravity, and allowed the bottom of panels (in particular) to remain un polished, giving a dirt-build-up appearance. On the whole it went well.
This loco has the least weathering of the three
Podartist79
Western Thunderer
Beautiful weathering Giles.
Really do like the 37s too!
Neil.
Really do like the 37s too!
Neil.
Giles
Western Thunderer
This was due mainly to the shaft not quite being (low enough) on the centreline of the axles - now rectified. Also, the mod 0.4 Chinese bevel gears are a teeny bit rough, and benefit from having the blazes ripped out of them in a loving manner with a brass brush, by means of fettling. Also now done. The result of these two processes is a very smooth transmission at all speeds, surprisingly powerful on a little 6mm gearmotor.
(Photo still under construction)
Brian McKenzie
Western Thunderer
Thanks Giles. That's a good tip - brushing the gear teeth to deburr etc.
Thinking how I might also fit these gears to 2mm dia shafts, I checked for any runout of the existing 1mm bore to the OD of the boss (I'm guessing/presuming that the collar and 1mm hole were turned and drilled after the teeth were cut).
There was some variation up to 0.0025" T.I.R., but with every chance of this increasing with further drilling, I'll bore them concentric to the boss - when I get to use them.
A previous use of bevel gears was a long time ago, also in a crane model. These came from Bonds (but after they had left Euston Road). The worm drive in view was made following Sid Stubbs excellent article in MRJ #42.
-Brian McK.
Thinking how I might also fit these gears to 2mm dia shafts, I checked for any runout of the existing 1mm bore to the OD of the boss (I'm guessing/presuming that the collar and 1mm hole were turned and drilled after the teeth were cut).
There was some variation up to 0.0025" T.I.R., but with every chance of this increasing with further drilling, I'll bore them concentric to the boss - when I get to use them.
A previous use of bevel gears was a long time ago, also in a crane model. These came from Bonds (but after they had left Euston Road). The worm drive in view was made following Sid Stubbs excellent article in MRJ #42.
-Brian McK.
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Do you have any more pictures of the steam crane? Looks like a well made bit of kit.
Mike
Brian McKenzie
Western Thunderer
There were some negatives of parts being hewn from the solid, jib sides etc., but it would be a mission to find them now after so many decades.
I let my 9mm scale stuff (3' 6" gauge on O gauge) go when changing scales, but would like to get the crane back, and add the rivet detail - which it never got.
Has anyone seen a source for bevel gears in Mod 0.2 other than the 20 tooth gear sets from the two german suppliers?? I can only find bevels in mod 0.3 or bigger with any real choice in tooth count from China. Alternatively I'm thinking of making Mod 0.2 contrate wheels by pressing up etched or laser cut spurs gears with an appropriately spaced tooth profile. I've done this in larger pitches like 48 DP (about mod 0.5) ok but concentricity/runout, general fiddliness etc become more of a problem as you get smaller, as mentioned above.
Giles
Western Thunderer
Extremely kind of you - but suffice to say there is better of everything to be seen on this site - which is inspirational!
I've started making a Slater's kit of one of the quarry Hunslets in 16mm, which Di gave me a few years ago, and I suddenly had a hankering to build.
At the front end, I'm playing with an ultrasonic mister for steam, which is giving a nice plume for 45 minutes solid - though it is discharging a lot of water, one way or another. I did have the foresight to drill a hole in the bottom of the boiler, and two in the bottom of the smokebox, so it won't be a problem for the loco, but the track-bed can expect to get wet.... which needs to be properly considered.
I've also made a start on the firebox. The Turret is a series of brass castings, which I have silver-soldered together. Everything was polished, partially chemically blackened, and partially polished again, as I want a working loco, not a preserved one. The back-head again is worked over (would even benefit from a little more) as they usually end up looking raw and elemental, unclad.. the loco will end up black, but a lot of character can be worked into plain black, and this size might be rather fun to work with. The firebox cladding was black silk or whatever, not a full gloss, rubbed down and polished. The backhead was matt, but flooded with thinners, 27004 gunmetal-metalcote, matt black, and bits of rust, the drowned in Talc before being brushed off after a few minutes.
I've started making a Slater's kit of one of the quarry Hunslets in 16mm, which Di gave me a few years ago, and I suddenly had a hankering to build.
At the front end, I'm playing with an ultrasonic mister for steam, which is giving a nice plume for 45 minutes solid - though it is discharging a lot of water, one way or another. I did have the foresight to drill a hole in the bottom of the boiler, and two in the bottom of the smokebox, so it won't be a problem for the loco, but the track-bed can expect to get wet.... which needs to be properly considered.
I've also made a start on the firebox. The Turret is a series of brass castings, which I have silver-soldered together. Everything was polished, partially chemically blackened, and partially polished again, as I want a working loco, not a preserved one. The back-head again is worked over (would even benefit from a little more) as they usually end up looking raw and elemental, unclad.. the loco will end up black, but a lot of character can be worked into plain black, and this size might be rather fun to work with. The firebox cladding was black silk or whatever, not a full gloss, rubbed down and polished. The backhead was matt, but flooded with thinners, 27004 gunmetal-metalcote, matt black, and bits of rust, the drowned in Talc before being brushed off after a few minutes.
Giles
Western Thunderer
Slow progress...? Backhead injectors fitted, gauge glasses nearly there, but these are those strangle triangular ones.... I have cut the castings back, and fitted books of perspex. The glue will be dry tomorrow, so I shall file them to shape tomorrow and polish them in situ - all being well!
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Marc Dobson
Western Thunderer
I do like a quarry hunslet. I have been resisting temptation with a 16mm one of a few years.
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Not sure about this particular type of gauge glass,Giles, but they often have a brass rod on each corner, as the frame is allowed a bit of movement between the top & bottom nut.
Tim
Tim