Hatcham Servicing depot

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi Cynric,

finally getting round to responding to your posting after a very good day laying the first part of a brick path to the rear of the garage - upper step being laid today.

That is a very impressive bit of kit and reading the 'blurb' it mentions solder fume extraction as well as airbrush overspray and goes on to say that it is unsuitable for continuous operation. I would be especially interested in the solder fume extraction aspect, but having to switch it on and off every few minutes when kit building would be a bit more than a pain in the butt. How long a continuous run do you have yours going? I would have thought that 30 - 45 minutes at a time should be achievable. The other interesting thing is that you can 'dangle' the outlet pipe out of a window - would save coring the wall and making more dust. Presumably, the outlet could be fitted to/through a pane of glass?

regards

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

30-40 minutes is no problem, but whilst its not 'noisy' It is not silent either. I bought it for painting and it does the job very well, and yes you could dangle it out of a window or you could pipe it in using ducting. the unit is deceptively powerful it doesnt feel as if it is doing anything, but then there is no smell or spray dust.
there are lots of home made spray booth designs about which are a lot cheaper, and with a metal brake you could assemble something for about ?75 without the filter obviously YMMV, but I am with the units performance.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi Mike, I am doing a DIY job on a spray booth, I bought a kitchen extractor from ebay for ?20 and I have just ordered some 5mm thick acrylic sheet , acrylic hinges and sheets of spray booth filter. I will post some pictures of it once I get it assembled.

If you want to virtually eiminate soldering smells (or at least make them pleasant) you want to try the flux from Simon Varnam from Building O Gauge online http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/ind...mart&page=shop.browse&category_id=1&Itemid=52 I have used it for the last couple of years (the same bottle) you can use it for brass or whitemetal and it works a treat. I think the principle ingredient must be lemon juice or that's what it smells of. It has the added bonus of being really easy to clean up too. Usual disclaimer
 

28ten

Guv'nor
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Rob Pulham said:
Hi Mike, I am doing a DIY job on a spray booth, I bought a kitchen extractor from ebay for ?20 and I have just ordered some 5mm thick acrylic sheet , acrylic hinges and sheets of spray booth filter. I will post some pictures of it once I get it assembled.

If you want to virtually eiminate soldering smells (or at least make them pleasant) you want to try the flux from Simon Varnam from Building O Gauge online http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/ind...mart&page=shop.browse&category_id=1&Itemid=52 I have used it for the last couple of years (the same bottle) you can use it for brass or whitemetal and it works a treat. I think the principle ingredient must be lemon juice or that's what it smells of. It has the added bonus of being really easy to clean up too. Usual disclaimer

One thing you need to bare in mind is the need for a brushless motor to avoid any danger of sparking and potential ignition of spray vapour. I use cellulose paint for some models and this has a real potential to go bang. :shit:
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

That's something to watch for. I plan to use mainly acrylics - I don't get on too well with the fumes from enamels etc. But one of the reasons I went for the proper spray booth filter is to ensure that all the stuff is filtered out before getting to the extractor itself. It comes in 1m x 9m so I should be able to cut it down and get quite a few replacements for my ?30 filter outlay.
 

28ten

Guv'nor
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

You will be all right with acrylics anyway :thumbs: but you cant be too careful inhaling fumes.
one thing I would recommend is venting externally. I did a crude test by leaving a tin of cellulose thinners open in front of the extractor and going into the garden, and I tell you I was shocked by the vapour being extracted. Ok its not scientific but it shows the value.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

28ten said:
You will be all right with acrylics anyway :thumbs: but you cant be too careful inhaling fumes.
one thing I would recommend is venting externally. I did a crude test by leaving a tin of cellulose thinners open in front of the extractor and going into the garden, and I tell you I was shocked by the vapour being extracted. Ok its not scientific but it shows the value.

I can imagine, even normal gloss paint gives me cold like symptoms and it affects the wife even worse so we use everything low odour in our house. But as you recommend, I do plan to vent externally using a dryer type hose that will fit directly into the back of the the extractor. In fact it's the only bit that I haven't ordered so far. I am looking forward to getting it sorted so I can get Severn painted.
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Rob Pulham said:
.... even normal gloss paint ... affects the wife even worse so we use everything low odour in our house.
The many wonderful 'smells' produced by railway modelling were the main reason I was gradually 'evicted' from house to shed, even before we had our lad (i.e. needed the room!), although my wife is asthmatic so it was really only fair, and we also have to decorate with low-odour paints; plus the shed gave me the space to "Go O Scale", so 'every cloud...' etc... :thumbs:
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi all,

many thanks for the hints and tips. I have asked the question of the suppliers as to the 'long running' and they seem to say 'no bother' but are checking with the manufacturer - I will keep you posted of the responses. Cynric, in your experiment, what was the distance between the thinners and the extract unit?

I made an extract hood using aluminium sheet and angle, pop riveted together incorporating a bathroom extract fan in the wall at my last house, which seemed to work quite well, so I might try that again.

I have heard a lot of good things about Simon Varham's flux, so I'll give that a go as well.

regards

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

About 6-8 inches. Whatever you decide I would recomend some form of extraction as it makes a real difference.
I also use Simon Varnhams flux and I have been very pleased with the results, I wouldn't go back to green label,
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi Cynric,

many thanks for your response, I'll definitely be installing some form of extraction - soon.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi all,

I have now had a reply from The Airbrush Company:

"Hi
the factory inform me that it should be turned off after 4 hours continuous use for about 30 minutes.
Personally I would have thought a 2 hour stint is going to be quite long for any airbrushing or soldering, so as I recommended just turn it off if you know it is not going to be used for 10 minutes or so. More you do then the longer life span from the motor
regards

Ken Medwell
The Airbrush Company Ltd"


So it seems that Cynric's suggestion could become reality by incorporating a termination louvre plate mounted in a pane of glass - a lot easier than core drilling through the wall.

regards

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

I will take a couple of shots of my unit when I can get to it, it's really very simple if you decided to make your own. BTW core drilling is nothing to be afraid of, I horde the drill and core for ?30 and did two holes, one in the workshop and onenin the kitchen for an extractor. It is messy though!
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi Cynric,

It wasn't the core drill that I was concerned about, it was just the mess, especially having been hoovering for what seems like an eternity clearing up after last weeks angle grinding et al. I spent all my working life in the construction industry and although 'office based' managed to get my hands dirty as soon as possible during site visits, from drilling and sawing to driving dozers and front end loaders.

I'll keep you posted of which route I take.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi all,

you can blame the Guvnor - for yet another change of direction, due to his suggestion of the dust extraction unit. I have checked that it can be placed adjacent to the workbench on the ex bedside unit that the kitchen rolls are on in picture 1222 on page 2 and serve the dual purpose of solder fime extraction and then when the workbench is suitably covered, paint fume and particle extraction. I have looked at the existing window frame today and guess what - it's rotten :eek: :eek: :eek: So a double glazed replacement will be sought, with a suitable aperture cut for the flexiduct from the extractor.

This then leads to yet another layout design/possibility as the area behind the up and over door was destined to be the 'spray booth'. I tried doing a mirror image of Poll Hill with a fiddle yard behind the door but it did not really work so I dabbled about and came up with the idea of a Preserved Line Maintenance Depot - no restrictions whatsoever as to era/livery/steam/diesel or whatever and having seena comment somewhere recently regarding the lack of such a layout, I think that I'm on a winner - who can say that anything is wrong - rivet counters eat your hearts out - us modellers have won :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: .

[attachment=0:yu13hge9]Wey Valley Maint Depot 02.09.10.jpg[/attachment:yu13hge9]

The only drawback is that I have had to reduce the curve to 5'9" but that is not unreasonable - especially on a 'preserved line'

regards

Mike
 

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28ten

Guv'nor
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

The other option - irrespective of the layout - is to build the layout to a set period, which you run to most of the time and then run out of period trains when the fancy takes you. Personally I feel more comfortable with this approach, for some reason the preserved line approach has never appealed to me, but I suspect this is because preserved railways dont really do it for me, which is really another topic all together!!

the main thins is that you are happy with your final solution, stuff the critics :laugh: :laugh:
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

28ten said:
the main thins is that you are happy with your final solution, stuff the critics :laugh: :laugh:
Otherwise known as "Rule No 1"... 'It's my trainset and I'll run what I like...' :D :cool:
 

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Jordan said:
[quote=""28ten"":1y1x8lv7]
the main thins is that you are happy with your final solution, stuff the critics :laugh: :laugh:
Otherwise known as "Rule No 1"... 'It's my trainset and I'll run what I like...' :D :cool:[/quote:1y1x8lv7]
And dont forget the most important bit, " So you can all *"!* off" :lol: :shit:
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
O Gauge - Poll Hill Parcels Depot

Hi all,

as I stated elsewhere, I think, (I'm definitely one of the ageing men who is loosing his memory) I have taken the plunge into DCC so now the fun starts.

Nigel Burkins book (a very essential read for those being/about to be converted) states that the bus wire for large scales should be 32/0.2 - I use 16/0.2 for conventional DC wiring in O Gauge. My question is that having heard that when converting from DC to DCC on an existing layout, all you basically have to do is switch all sections 'ON' and connect the DCC cable to the DC 'chocolate block! Simples!! But the DC is 16/0.2 :eek: :eek: is this therefore going to be a problem? should it all come out and be replaced by 32/0.2?

Having studied most of the layouts at Telford, I am coming back to the Minories type layout 16' x 2' so I cannot see that there will be that much of a power drop in that length even assuming that the initial feed is at one end (but it's more likely to be in the middle) and I'm also assuming that additional Power Districts will not be required, nor any other connections other than from the throttle to the command station.

My intention, if the above 16/0.2 scheme is workable in DCC, is to wire up as a convention DC layout - ie as four sections with insulated rail joiners between each section but without the section switches - ie, connecting the power by daisy chained chocholate blocks.

[attachment=0:2gs09slp]Poll Hill parcels depot V4 wiring 07.09.10.jpg[/attachment:2gs09slp]

Comments, after the laughter has ceased, will be most welcome.

regards

Mike
 

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