For clarity, the frames were designed for Slaters' hornblocks which John appears to be using. They are, of course, sprung but if John chooses some other method, that is his prerogative. I've scratch built four Ladies and four other 2-2-2 locos, using both springing and compensation, loco drive and tender drive and they all work.
Both springing and compensation can give good roadholding, I prefer springing because I think it is easier to fit (using Slaters' components). I prefer loco drive to tender drive. Tender drive is easier to fit if you can get a readymade mechanism. I've used ABC in the past but I don't know if Brian will still do them. But I prefer loco drive because with tender drive it's still necessary to spring or compensate the wheels and to weight the loco to make sure the wheels turn round.
Any combination can be made to work and one isn't inherently superior to the others. The key, in my view, is quality of chassis construction, and that outweighs the rest.
Weight is important but I have found that, even with a firebox full of motor, there is space enough in the boiler to give good traction. A loco that is slightly nose-heavy isn't a bad thing and guides it into curves. My criterion for weight is that the loco should pull a train similar to what the prototype did, assuming that the coaches are free running and not made entirely of whitemetal. If you expect a Lady to pull a WW2-style train of 20+ bogie coaches, you will be disappointed.
Nick