Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
And another thing. I’ve searched the internet and can’t find one photo of an early G6 that shows the spacing of the lettering on the side of the tanks. Mmm
Jon
Jon
I had thought of that but I wasn’t going to, Ian. I do have a set of rollers but I’ve never had much joy with them. I may try wrapping by hand around a suitable piece of steel to take out some of the spring.Jon,
I hope you are going to roll and shape the wrapper before you solder it onto the formers. If you don’t you may find that the spring of the metal will eventually overcome the solder and it will come apart. Been there!
Ian.
I do have a set of rollers but I’ve never had much joy with them
I had thought of that but I wasn’t going to, Ian. I do have a set of rollers but I’ve never had much joy with them. I may try wrapping by hand around a suitable piece of steel to take out some of the spring.
Jon
MikeJon
Could you tell me was wrong with the pre formed wrapper supplied with the kit, and the description of fitting in the manual.
MikeView attachment 216159
PaulJon, I'd strongly recommend your watching Nick Dunhill constructing a smokebox from scratch in this Gauge 0 Guild video. IMO forming the wrapper to shape prior to getting out the soldering iron is the way to go.
This is a piece of .018" that I was tweaking gently around a 2" diameter bar when it cracked!
Yes you do need to be careful, It helps if you sandwich the sheet between a couple of sheets of plasticard to protect the n/s. I have rolled smokeboxes with embossed rivet detail in this manner.The problem with the smaller thickness is that it dents so easily if I'm not careful when forming it. Any little 'thing' left on the forming bar puts a dent into it.
Totally agree and the cost difference is definitely worth it.Speaking only for myself, I would never use brass for anything! Its high thermal conductivity makes it a pig to solder whereas N/S can be held in the fingers just a short distance from the joint! If there were no N/S on the planet, I would use tinplate! If frustrates me that some kit providers persist in using "etched brass". Fortunately, the better ones know what they are doing - there is a cost difference, but well worth it.
For .018", my preference is always to anneal before rolling in any case; that way the grain - and a lot of resistance - is gone!
I'd be interested to know how you anneal sheet material.