Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
CV8 decoder reset?
Mickoo's American Modelling Empire
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I've done that several times, its not doing any good.
I have a CP one as well that seems to be OK so I'm going to load that in next.
I have a CP one as well that seems to be OK so I'm going to load that in next.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I've had that happen several times, the uploading seems a bit flaky at best and sometimes it'll upload only part of it and the rest gets stuffed, I usually have a default ESU file that I drop in and then start again with that, so make a note of any changes as you go along in case you need to do that.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Handy having a model shop with a good DCC section just down the road, expensive too, second chip purchased and installed, rather than chopping off the NMRA plug I grabbed some sockets, makes it all so much easier and I fold the cables back along the chip and tape up, I've found just the flexing during install can sometimes break the thin wires right next to the solder pad on the chip.
Loaded a new base file in, uploaded sounds and known good motor mapping and off we went, sounds fine, runs well but again the LEDs are always on. Decided to take everything out of the mapping and
the LEDs are on as soon as you select the engine, lights on/off, direction, nothing changes, they're just on, if I add them back in the mapping then they get brighter with lights on and direction, but never go off.
For reference and a cross check, LED wiring, the middle (power) is from the U+ (blue) cable and feeds two 1K resistors in parallel, originally only one per leg, in fact adding the second seems to make them stay on even brighter, sometimes they will flicker and occasionally go off but then flicker back on when mapping applied.
Resistors are added to the + leg of the LED but I'm wondering if they might work better on the - side and help drag down the transistor to turn it off. I can understand why ESU switch the neutral (less current, smaller components) but as I often found on container cranes, sometimes it never switches off cleanly and I'm guessing something like that is happening here....twice.
The other odd thing I've noted is that they flicker when uploading the program, but one is brighter than the other
Loaded a new base file in, uploaded sounds and known good motor mapping and off we went, sounds fine, runs well but again the LEDs are always on. Decided to take everything out of the mapping and
the LEDs are on as soon as you select the engine, lights on/off, direction, nothing changes, they're just on, if I add them back in the mapping then they get brighter with lights on and direction, but never go off.For reference and a cross check, LED wiring, the middle (power) is from the U+ (blue) cable and feeds two 1K resistors in parallel, originally only one per leg, in fact adding the second seems to make them stay on even brighter, sometimes they will flicker and occasionally go off but then flicker back on when mapping applied.
Resistors are added to the + leg of the LED but I'm wondering if they might work better on the - side and help drag down the transistor to turn it off. I can understand why ESU switch the neutral (less current, smaller components) but as I often found on container cranes, sometimes it never switches off cleanly and I'm guessing something like that is happening here....twice.
The other odd thing I've noted is that they flicker when uploading the program, but one is brighter than the other
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richard carr
Western Thunderer
Well problem solved, I pulled off the dynamic break blister to look inside and all the lights came on and stayed on so no idea what I have done, maybe there is a lose wire in there ? The blister is back in place too.
Mick, if you put 2 resistors in parallel doesn't that reduce the resistance, you need to put them in series to increase it ?
or have I got V=IR wrong.
Richard
Mick, if you put 2 resistors in parallel doesn't that reduce the resistance, you need to put them in series to increase it ?
or have I got V=IR wrong.
Richard
richard carr
Western Thunderer
The other question I have is are marker lights on in the direction of travel or on at the opposite end to the direction if travel ?
Thanks
Thanks
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Yes it does, but those are not in parallel, look again and you'll see they're in series, the feed is in the top middle so it passes through two resistors to get to each LED, you could actually save another resistor and have both LEDs + leg attached to two resistors in series and take one of the paired legs away.
What we have here is two 1K resistors in series so total 2K, if I left it as is and then joined the two lower ends of each resistor leg (croc clip) then I would have one in series and then these two in parallel, which was the plan when doing it this way. If I hold the lower ends together then I get 500 Ohms so total 1.5K, it's a quick and dirty way of changing values quickly.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I'm not sure on that one, I would have said in the direction of travel but beware some markers were classification lights and had three colours or lenses (white /red/green) but that sort of died out in later years and many modern engines no longer have marker/classification lights fitted.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well some success this afternoon, in desperation I changed from headlight and rearlight outputs to Aux3/4 and boom, perfect, lights on, lights off and change of direction to boot.
I also noted that when the LEDS were on front and rear outputs the chip was warm, not hot but warmer than it really should be, since moving to Aux3/4 it's stone cold and my gut feeling is that front/rear light output is not a power output, it maybe a command signal to another board or sub board to control the lights. This might be why the first chip smoked as the LEDs were drawing too much power, the book of words also notes Aux outputs with the added text (power) which also leads me to believe they best for switching loads.
I couldn't get rule 17 to work or the opposing end to remain on dim and after nearly three days, have given up caring. What I did do was make the lamps dimable (F12) so that when stood in a siding you need to manually press that and then the lit one (depending on travel) will dim, a sort of manual rule 17 and much like the real world where the driver has to configure dimmed lights by selecting a switch.
The other thing I did was add fade in and out at a max 1.04 seconds, that better reflects large filament lamps turning on and off (except modern LED ones that are now coming on stream these past few years) and then I set a off delay of 0.8 seconds. As it stands now when you switch on they fade in nicely to full brightness, when you change direction the second fades in but a fraction if a second later the other fades out, thus for a short while, both are on during change over. It's a nice effect and reflects manual changing over in the cab and how big lamps work.
I also noted that when the LEDS were on front and rear outputs the chip was warm, not hot but warmer than it really should be, since moving to Aux3/4 it's stone cold and my gut feeling is that front/rear light output is not a power output, it maybe a command signal to another board or sub board to control the lights. This might be why the first chip smoked as the LEDs were drawing too much power, the book of words also notes Aux outputs with the added text (power) which also leads me to believe they best for switching loads.
I couldn't get rule 17 to work or the opposing end to remain on dim and after nearly three days, have given up caring. What I did do was make the lamps dimable (F12) so that when stood in a siding you need to manually press that and then the lit one (depending on travel) will dim, a sort of manual rule 17 and much like the real world where the driver has to configure dimmed lights by selecting a switch.
The other thing I did was add fade in and out at a max 1.04 seconds, that better reflects large filament lamps turning on and off (except modern LED ones that are now coming on stream these past few years) and then I set a off delay of 0.8 seconds. As it stands now when you switch on they fade in nicely to full brightness, when you change direction the second fades in but a fraction if a second later the other fades out, thus for a short while, both are on during change over. It's a nice effect and reflects manual changing over in the cab and how big lamps work.