richard carr
Western Thunderer
Fair enough Mick, I have to agree with all that.
Richard
Richard
Pish...work bench (12' x 2') already done mateBuild the baseboards first so you can get all the toys out!
JB.
Mick,That's not a bad model for RTR to be fair, at least the walkways (albeit not quite right) are see through. I just missed a Weaver Gold ribbed Thrusill 2 bay covered hopper, I've heard of their Ultra line but not Gold, importantly it had all individual grab irons, not the typical molded ones, it actually looked pretty good to be honest.
I think the 'special' Lionel models are either from the JLC brand or the buy out/in of a brand called K line. The SD75M-I is from K line under the Lionel brand is rather good to be honest, also rather rare and sadly flawed in that for some obscure reason, they modeled a blower duct along the LH walkway
The Weaver 4 bay went into the chop shop and ended up thus.
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As noted before there is an issue with the lower cill and it's thickness, the reason for that is due to the internal injection molding plug and it's straight sides, this means that the hopper side is too wide at the base and so the cill is truncated in width to retain the overall width.
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I removed all the unwanted protrusions and joined the two halves together, I'm not overly worried about the joint as it'll get covered with the new skin, the roof on the other hand will need some filler but that's much later on.
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You could stop right here, chop the walkway to fit, carve off the molded grab rails and refit roof hatches to suit your chosen model, plus a few other details, however I wanted to have more detailed end cages from brass angle....I may regret that choice later on.
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The end cages and ladders were all removed and dressed back, the end bulkheads are clumsy, the massive gussets are solid and should have an angled edge on the outside, plus, the bulkhead is flush with the sides, hence the need for an external skin which protrudes past the end of the bulkhead.
Anyway, the RTR bulkheads were removed and new inner Plasticard ones fitted, these having a taper to the lower edge to bring the base of the hopper inward and increase the curvature of the side skin, not much but visually enough and more to scale.
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I'm not worried about the old molded cill, it's going to get covered and a new cill fitted on top. I should have curved the sides before joining the two halves and fitting the new internal bulkheads, but it is what it is and the lower edge will straighten out once the skin and new lower cill get fitted.
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I added an internal deck where the start of the new radius begins, it adds rigidity to the whole shell and ensures that at least the waist area is smooth and straight.
There endeth the work in plastic, the rest from here on in is a medium I'm more at home with, brass sheet.
The first step will be new bulkhead skins, these will be full width and bonded to the plastic core, with which adhesive I know not yet, super glue I've found can come adrift, same for Devcon 5 minute which can also be a pain to get a thin film. Ideally you want something that bonds well but not instantly. I'll almost certainly add some sort of additional mechanical fixing, typically a staple from the inside that passes through the plastic and brass and soldered outside, the resultant stub dressed back smooth and hidden by some surface detail.
Once those are in place then new deck, porches, patios, whatever they're called will be added to both ends, these need to be quite thick as they will hold the new bolsters for the trucks and drag boxes for the Kadee's. After that comes the new side skins and finally the new thicker profiled lower cill.
Once all that is done then detailing the end porches is in order and finally the fitting of the new end cages.
The only bit of plastic left showing on the shell will probably be the roof, though I may skin that too, primarily to give something for the new walkway supports to be soldered to.
Big as the Form is, this will only just fit in and quite frankly won't print this very well; if it did, it would cost a fortune in resinMick,
I thought you had an all singing and dancing 3d printer?
Or does size matter?
Rob
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Richard, cheers, it's not that good close upMick
I'm very impressed with the clean cut of the body, what did you use to make it ?
Richard
NiceNot up to the standard of some around here, but these are some pics of the Pecos River replacement brass 3-bay chassis for Weaver hoppers.
I bodged the bolsters a bit to fit Atlas rotating cap roller bearing trucks. I also soldered brass stirrups to the corners to replace the plastic (& fragile) ones on the Weaver body shell. Kadees are a direct fit.
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It repeats the 'solid' ends like the Weaver floor, no doubt more skilled modellers than me will cut it away to be open framed like the real thing. For fitting in the body, I used a few dabs of contact glue, in the unlikely event it ever needs removing.
I think I might have posted these pics before, but this time it's in aid of persuading Mick that he really needs a couple that Jim has going spare![]()
I think that looks great!Not up to the standard of some around here, but these are some pics of the Pecos River replacement brass 3-bay chassis for Weaver hoppers.
I bodged the bolsters a bit to fit Atlas rotating cap roller bearing trucks. I also soldered brass stirrups to the corners to replace the plastic (& fragile) ones on the Weaver body shell. Kadees are a direct fit.
View attachment 158705
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View attachment 158709
It repeats the 'solid' ends like the Weaver floor, no doubt more skilled modellers than me will cut it away to be open framed like the real thing. For fitting in the body, I used a few dabs of contact glue, in the unlikely event it ever needs removing.
I think I might have posted these pics before, but this time it's in aid of persuading Mick that he really needs a couple that Jim has going spare![]()
Jordan, (@Jordan),I bodged the bolsters a bit to fit Atlas rotating cap roller bearing trucks.![]()
Graham,Jordan, (@Jordan),
You have taught, for so long, that the SOO livery is Red /Grey and yet you have a wagon written SOO in green(?) - how does this fit into your teachings?
Those rotating cap thingies, my understanding of those items is based soo-lely on UK practice and so could be inappropriate to the US scene, maybe you can explain. I think that the rotating cap is a dust cover/oil seal between the inner and outer bearing races, also retains the inner race in position on the journal. So what retains the outer race in the axlebox housing other than gravity?
regards, Graham
So what retains the outer race in the axlebox housing other than gravity?
regards, Graham
So nothing mechanical... just a combination of gravity and the weight of the wagon.This is a good video to watch.
There are no retention straps on US truck roller bearings.Jordan, (@Jordan),
You have taught, for so long, that the SOO livery is Red /Grey and yet you have a wagon written SOO in green(?) - how does this fit into your teachings?
Those rotating cap thingies, my understanding of those items is based soo-lely on UK practice and so could be inappropriate to the US scene, maybe you can explain. I think that the rotating cap is a dust cover/oil seal between the inner and outer bearing races, also retains the inner race in position on the journal. So what retains the outer race in the axlebox housing other than gravity?
regards, Graham
What he said.Like the UK, many US Railroads have a completely different paint scheme for stock, both freight and (historical) passenger.