7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That's one way of putting it
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Mick,
My solution to this problem...
Ian
My solution to this problem...
Ian
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That works well on parallel sided fireboxes but not so well on tapered ones as there's often a very small gap at the very front corner between the side sheet and the brass square section.
In those instances round bar is better, but only if the rounded radius is the same through out, if it varies as it does on GWR fireboxes between the sides, crown and shoulders it's no good at all.
In future I'll consider a 3D plug clamped between the firebox and boiler with big 6BA bolts to hold it in place.
In those instances round bar is better, but only if the rounded radius is the same through out, if it varies as it does on GWR fireboxes between the sides, crown and shoulders it's no good at all.
In future I'll consider a 3D plug clamped between the firebox and boiler with big 6BA bolts to hold it in place.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I've spent an age cleaning up the 4F dome (it actually turned out the right size in the end, so no need to waste time on a 3DP) to get it to fit nice and snug, but then remembered some detail shots I took at GWSR last weekend, I needn't have bothered to clean this one up 
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Update on the King firebox just before I shoot out the door, virtually there now, one small section still needs a little smoothing but paint is still soft.
I'm going to take it to Kempton with some tools and wet n dry and see if I can get the last bit done either later tonight in the hotel or during the day at Kempton, then hand over for paint. If it's still not set or smooth enough it'll have to come back, can't say we didn't try
I'm going to take it to Kempton with some tools and wet n dry and see if I can get the last bit done either later tonight in the hotel or during the day at Kempton, then hand over for paint. If it's still not set or smooth enough it'll have to come back, can't say we didn't try
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Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Mick,
Definitely an improvement from earlier. Nice recovery.
See you tomorrow!
Ian
Definitely an improvement from earlier. Nice recovery.
See you tomorrow!
Ian
mickoo
Western Thunderer
And then there were wheels, a chassis, some metal and a whole lot of 3D.
I just noticed when editing the photos that the front brake beam buckle has moved, infuriating but it does show how the metal bits are secured and the buckles are just cosmetic overlays, the wire and beam taking all the load.
Next up, all the inside motion and fang dangly whirly bits, oh, and more 3D.
It's going to be a tight squeeze to complete for delivery at Barnsley as I also have the 2P and 3F to reassemble, fit DCC and run in for delivery at the same time.
For the technocrats out there, the motor gearbox is Slaters SG38, nice compact gearbox with tiny final gear and easy to hide up under there.
I just noticed when editing the photos that the front brake beam buckle has moved, infuriating but it does show how the metal bits are secured and the buckles are just cosmetic overlays, the wire and beam taking all the load.
Next up, all the inside motion and fang dangly whirly bits, oh, and more 3D.
It's going to be a tight squeeze to complete for delivery at Barnsley as I also have the 2P and 3F to reassemble, fit DCC and run in for delivery at the same time.
For the technocrats out there, the motor gearbox is Slaters SG38, nice compact gearbox with tiny final gear and easy to hide up under there.
ianlbsc
Western Thunderer
Please would you say what manufacturer of hornblocks you are using here? The sprung unit. I am trying to find thin sets like this for a loco I am making in order to fit in a set of cosmetic inside motion parts. I have looked back as far as page 80 just now but can't find a reference to them. Cheers, Ian Mac
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Actually the answer is on page 78....only kidding
I'm sure I've written how I do it before but maybe now is as good a time as any for a refresher.
In a nut shell I find other hornblocks/guides a right pain, it's probably just me, but etched ones rarely seem to fold right or the slots for tabs are too loose/tight and cast ones are often misshapen and take forever to dress smooth. They all also seem to be too wide, actually they're probably to scale but the narrow frames for O fine makes them over sized, especially if you want to fit inside motion effectively.
The solution is something Nick and I have discussed over many beers and we kind of wishy washy had this idea of making our own (etches or castings) but over time we worked out you really need nothing more than some brass angle (in my case 2 x 2mm but I think Nick uses 1.5 x 1.5mm). The concept really took off when I got deeper into 3D as we could now cover the ugly angle strips with nice detailed cosmetic prints over the top.
Essentially it's just two angle strips up the sides and one across the top, onto which I solder a 10BA nut and then use that as a guide to drill the angle for the adjustment screw. The 3D print has a corresponding recess to accommodate the angle strips so it sits flat on the frames.
More recently I've been adding dummy axle box faces, these strengthen the horn guides, especially those with no cast header seen on more modern engines, without the axle box the horn guides up the sides have a tendency to splay or not adhere well. The axle box face has a pocket behind to allow the metal one free movement and a elongated slot to allow the axle to move up and down.
On the 4F I made a further change by burying a 14BA nut in the spring hanger bracket of the cntre axle; it actually needs to be a little deeper so I'll make a revision and print the final ones off before it goes for paint. That allows the 3D print to be removed and the axle box dropped out. The others are all fixed and have a small rivet/pin passed through from the inside and soldered outside to give a good mechanical fixing; I've been finding of late the adhesive can fail if rough handled or any flexing is present.
They take a bit of extra work but are actually quicker and easier than messing around with other etched or cast ones, plus you're in control of all aspects so you're not trying to fix issues caused elsewhere by design or manufacturing. The angle is also cheap as chips and a couple of lengths will do several models.
I'm sure I've written how I do it before but maybe now is as good a time as any for a refresher.
In a nut shell I find other hornblocks/guides a right pain, it's probably just me, but etched ones rarely seem to fold right or the slots for tabs are too loose/tight and cast ones are often misshapen and take forever to dress smooth. They all also seem to be too wide, actually they're probably to scale but the narrow frames for O fine makes them over sized, especially if you want to fit inside motion effectively.
The solution is something Nick and I have discussed over many beers and we kind of wishy washy had this idea of making our own (etches or castings) but over time we worked out you really need nothing more than some brass angle (in my case 2 x 2mm but I think Nick uses 1.5 x 1.5mm). The concept really took off when I got deeper into 3D as we could now cover the ugly angle strips with nice detailed cosmetic prints over the top.
Essentially it's just two angle strips up the sides and one across the top, onto which I solder a 10BA nut and then use that as a guide to drill the angle for the adjustment screw. The 3D print has a corresponding recess to accommodate the angle strips so it sits flat on the frames.
More recently I've been adding dummy axle box faces, these strengthen the horn guides, especially those with no cast header seen on more modern engines, without the axle box the horn guides up the sides have a tendency to splay or not adhere well. The axle box face has a pocket behind to allow the metal one free movement and a elongated slot to allow the axle to move up and down.
On the 4F I made a further change by burying a 14BA nut in the spring hanger bracket of the cntre axle; it actually needs to be a little deeper so I'll make a revision and print the final ones off before it goes for paint. That allows the 3D print to be removed and the axle box dropped out. The others are all fixed and have a small rivet/pin passed through from the inside and soldered outside to give a good mechanical fixing; I've been finding of late the adhesive can fail if rough handled or any flexing is present.
They take a bit of extra work but are actually quicker and easier than messing around with other etched or cast ones, plus you're in control of all aspects so you're not trying to fix issues caused elsewhere by design or manufacturing. The angle is also cheap as chips and a couple of lengths will do several models.
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Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
I wonder... have you ever thought of Swiss metre gauge at 1:87 scale?
mickoo
Western Thunderer
There's two types of square bearing available, Slaters which have a turned spigot on one end and these cubed ones by Peartree I believe.
A friend on Facebook CNC some cubed ones up when I ran short between builds for a very reasonable price, but I've since acquired a bulk load (100) from a source I'd prefer to protect. I think Peartree only sell minimum 500 to make it cost effective to run the machine and when these run out I'll probably do just that.
In all honesty, the axle box shape or size is irrelevant, you'll just fit the angle to suit your bearings.
Word of warning though.....as I've just found out this evening.......the bore is not always concentric, despite using a jig for the rods and chassis it had a tight spot, one of the bearings had become flipped front to rear, I flipped it around and the chassis was lovely and smooth.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That's a rather random out of the blue comment
It's fair to say I think of many things and yes HOm is one of them, specifically RhB, but not as something to model in detail but as a 'train set' / 'layout' concept for running/playing trains.
I've little or no interest in building or making stock in HOm (there's plenty of good RTR already available) but a Swiss mountain layout where the building aspect is the scenery is something I've thought (and still do) about long and hard in recent months. That and a HO US circular layout or US O scale industrial layout vie for my attention constantly. I've even seriously considered US N gauge for longer trains and US/German Gauge 1/G scale for uber detail engine models.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Sorry about that.
I`m reading through the 115 pages and came to the part where you were losing your mojo.
The RhB Bernina line goes down to 45m radius. You don`t need all that much space to model that prototypically. All of the main motive power items can be obtained and most of the various passenger stock. There is not much freight on the line, mainly oil and wood.
Just a thought.
Bernard
I`m reading through the 115 pages and came to the part where you were losing your mojo.
The RhB Bernina line goes down to 45m radius. You don`t need all that much space to model that prototypically. All of the main motive power items can be obtained and most of the various passenger stock. There is not much freight on the line, mainly oil and wood.
Just a thought.
Bernard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
No problem, I've not yet pulled the trigger on any BEMO HOm as I know it'll be a slippery slope there after. Speaking to a friend I could almost stock an entire layout for the price of a respectable O gauge OMI model. I've got one or two US HO models but they're hidden away in case that interest bubble takes over.
Bernina would be my preferred scenario but it's all DC and the Re 4/4 and Kroc's don't work over there, it's all units, not that I'm adverse to the ones they use or the new ones they now have. Pontresina is one of two places the AC and DC are side by side, the other being St Moritz but most if not all the freight goes down the other leg to Samedan.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
I have a detailed track plan for St Moritz..... you could have Bernina and main line trains in one go fed from two fiddleyards.
bambuko
Western Thunderer
Couldn't find it anywhere on the webpage?
any chances of a link, please?