mickoo
Western Thunderer
All listed aboveJust what you are working on now, not what is in the pipeline.
Bernard
All listed aboveJust what you are working on now, not what is in the pipeline.
Bernard
Mick,If you run a heavy (long) thread, your's, mine, Oldravendales photos, Pencarrows workbench and several others....Spikey Faz, Heather, Richard Carr...etc, it actually take a bloody lot of time.
I have cut back over the last year or so (honest) and tend to just cut and paste what I put on FB, that way I don't have to remember if I've written something different in each place.
Having said that, FB is more dynamic and I do post there and not here occasionally, primarily because this place is less receptive (no, wrong word, conducive?) to the rapid fire instant gratification postings you tend to get on FB. That's fine, each platform has it's own comfort zone/aura.
The above Buffalo 3D profile puck is a perfect FB post, 'hey guys what about this as a cool idea', here it's more 'yeah, and!' kind of feeling/feedback (lack of), but that's fine, that's how this place works and you accept it or move on.
FB is more like you're upbeat music (expensive drinks) type of venue, WT is more like the local pub with open fire.
I personally don't think there's enough interaction here, where it really matters, folks just take for granted X, Y, Z are going to post a really interesting update every few days or weekly; don't be surprised if one day they don't.
I don’t do FB, in the possibly vain hope that FB doesn’t do me.If you run a heavy (long) thread, your's, mine, Oldravendales photos, Pencarrows workbench and several others....Spikey Faz, Heather, Richard Carr...etc, it actually take a bloody lot of time.
I have cut back over the last year or so (honest) and tend to just cut and paste what I put on FB, that way I don't have to remember if I've written something different in each place.
Having said that, FB is more dynamic and I do post there and not here occasionally, primarily because this place is less receptive (no, wrong word, conducive?) to the rapid fire instant gratification postings you tend to get on FB. That's fine, each platform has it's own comfort zone/aura.
The above Buffalo 3D profile puck is a perfect FB post, 'hey guys what about this as a cool idea', here it's more 'yeah, and!' kind of feeling/feedback (lack of), but that's fine, that's how this place works and you accept it or move on.
FB is more like you're upbeat music (expensive drinks) type of venue, WT is more like the local pub with open fire.
I personally don't think there's enough interaction here, where it really matters, folks just take for granted X, Y, Z are going to post a really interesting update every few days or weekly; don't be surprised if one day they don't.
Is that 4mm or 7mm? It looks very much like what Mr. Redrup would design in 4mm. I'm in 7mm, and managed to buy Mercian's display model of their 5'6" 2-4-2. It is a rough example of an OLD kit. Not like this at all. I manged to get it running, and assign it my rake of unpainted 30'1" coaches. It will never be more than a 3' model, no matter how well I paint it.Jumping around a bit this month, lots of projects on the go in an effort to maximize bench time.
Most of the LNWR 2-4-2T chassis is done, couple of niggles with the etches, nothing a file and scribe couldn't resolve or a rivet punch.
I'll need to 3D the inside cylinder block shortly, then the slide bars and motion bracket can go in. I'm still not sure how or where to make the split between the upper footplate section and lower chassis section at the front; on the real engine the smokebox front is also integral with the cylinder block front and visible through that great big hole in the footplate behind the buffer beam.
Whilst I keep putting that design conundrum off I'll sort the brake gear and then it'll have to be tackled head on.
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I only work in O gauge and it is (very little left to be honest) the Mercian kit, cab front, sides and rear I think is all I've used so far.Is that 4mm or 7mm? It looks very much like what Mr. Redrup would design in 4mm. I'm in 7mm, and managed to buy Mercian's display model of their 5'6" 2-4-2. It is a rough example of an OLD kit. Not like this at all. I manged to get it running, and assign it my rake of unpainted 30'1" coaches. It will never be more than a 3' model, no matter how well I paint it.
Oh. The whole frame is scratchbuilt. That is what threw me. The Mercian kit is barely worth building, but I have one that runs, and it is a good fit for my era and branchline, so I will finish it off some day.I only work in O gauge and it is (very little left to be honest) the Mercian kit, cab front, sides and rear I think is all I've used so far.
Me too! I find them quite informative and inspiring.for one would miss your, and Nick’s threads,
Oh , i need to go back and find all the postings on this build as i have one to do myself although not broad gauge .Finally done with the Scorpio BG Buffalo. Backhead and a couple of little nick knacks to fit after paint as well as some work on the dome and safety valve bonnet flanges before polishing and also fitting after paint.
A lot of work required on the top sides, you can only really keep the smokebox front, cab sides, roof, boiler belly and valances. For the sake of the children the etched saddle tank and I decided to call it quits and go our separate ways . I also kept the cab step treads but needed new riser backing plates.
Below decks, other than a 3D ashpan, it was an all out of the box build with little drama.
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No afraid not, I just build and ship, signatures are for artists and the likeFascinating. I`d like to think you leave an identification somewhere on your builds that shows it was one of `yours`.
Extraordinary.Wish I had thought of this long before, the germ of the idea came about with the recent Pannier and saddle tanks and forming them. It occurred that it would have been very handy if I had an accurate dolly to beat the metal over and life would be so much easier.
Fast forward to this morning and the small roof section on the Bulleid tender, always a witch to get neat and even bends, especially the tight ones at cant rail level.
It took a few moments to draw up and I added a couple of grip posts, one rectangular, the other circular; both work equally well so there's no advantage of either type, just personal preference really.
Did it make a difference, certainly did, took mere minutes to form and it fitted right onto the model just tickety boo.
The next one will be for the cab, forming the main radius isn't hard but the cant rail one just above the side windows can be troublesome as can the double set in front of the front windows.
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There's not much to see (BG Buffalo) I'm afraid, I gave up doing detailed write ups when the feedback dropped off. I found it was taking an hour or more to take and process photos, then write up what was going on and only a handful of likes.Oh , i need to go back and find all the postings on this build as i have one to do myself although not broad gauge .
I for one appreciate that you find the time to post on here and will quite often put a like rather than a reply figuring that you could spend hours reading all the replys that say 'great work' that could be better spent doing something else like drinking a nice red .
Great work
The only downside is the print time and it also really needs to be solid so it eats resin. This simple small block was 3½ hours to print and I expect the cab dolly will be 6-8 hrs; an overnight job for sure.Extraordinary.
I was asking myself the “I wonder if that would work?” question first thing this morning, and you’ve just answered it.
Thx.