7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

mickoo

Western Thunderer
See debate about ”whether it ‘counts’ as ‘scratchbuilding’ or not”!
I haven't seen that and frankly won't go looking for it, it's a debate with no answer and thus a waste of time.

As an aside and tiger tail pulling exercise, I wonder how many so claimed scratch builders use cast brass and white metal fittings :)), hypocrisy at it's finest.

I personally don't care what it's called, I only care what it looks like on the finished product, thankfully, all my customers are of the same mind.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Another one assembled post paint from Warren Heywood and ready for running in, in this case, a David Andrews Peppercorn A1 and Finney7 streamlined tender.

The replacement tender was due to the original having been built by persons unknown. It needed some remedial work which soon became clear that starting anew would be more economical.

Whilst running in the backhead will be detailed and fitted once the session is finished and the hooks will go in as well, then it'll be off for weathering by Neil Podbury. I've just noticed the rear tender hand rail has dropped out, that'll get fitted back as well ;)

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Hi Mick

Nice to see the face behind the man and have a short chat with you at the Guild show. Nice to see the BLP chassis in all its glory, fantastic work. Look forward to the rest of the build and those nice smoothed casing etches and smokebox details.
Dave
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Another tale of woe you can only but laugh. An Alan Gibson MR 3F in this case, a kit form the distant past which really shows it's heritage, I'd guess a blow up from a 4 mm kit and hand drawn given how ragged the edges on some parts are.

There's very little in the kit, more an aid to scratch building and the tender needed a new top and front shelf and raised bulkhead as the kit ones were wrong and in the case of the top, not supplied....Plasticard is recommended in the instructions

Beware the tender footplate, there's a nice half etched groove to locate the sides and rear, problem is the groove for the sides is 52 mm apart but the rear and front bulkheads are only 50 mm wide, I flipped it over and fitted the sides to match the ends and lived with the groove on the underside.

The sides are half etched and I suspect over etched (at a rough guess only 6/7 thou thick) so when forming the flare the skin split along the top of the outside strengthening framework. I've had to add backing strips inside the coal space for support. It's not a problem as they'll all be covered with a full load of coal eventually, which is also why I've paid minimum attention to cleaning the model inside the coal space.

The tool box is the wrong shape (new info this afternoon enabled a new one to be drawn up and is in the printer at the moment. I've also not fitted the small raised deck at the front, something doesn't seem right so I'm waiting for some books to arrive with better photos and hopefully drawings in as well.

The engine is even worse, the only recoverable bits are the frame sides, footplate with splashers, cab front and sides/roof, the rest will have to be scratch built, that'll be a long dreary haul.

Buffers, Vac stand are in the post and I'll add some lamp irons in due course, they're rather simple bent up L shapes so easier to fabricate by hand from NS strip.

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Rob R

Western Thunderer
I shall be watching with interest as I have an Gibson S Scale 4F with the same (or very similar) tender.

I suspect that so little of the kit is usable for the purpose intended that I may as well scratchbuild a Kirtley outside frame 1F :( or, as it has the same wheelbase, a Palestine Railways ex WD ex LSWR Adams 0395, just for the hell of it.:)

Rob
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Finally happy with the 3D printed Midland Region 3250 gallon tender axle boxes and springs, on the left is the original kit supplied white metal item.

The replacement is printed in two parts to maximize the orientation for each piece, in this case the axle box and guides are one piece and the spring with hangers the second; there being a peg on the spring to fit into a socket in the axle box to locate the two accurately.

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michael mott

Western Thunderer
No Doubt about the improvement! But I have to add that the white metal looks like it has come from a tired or poorly vulcanized mold or a poorly made master.
I have cast thousands of parts in white metal 50 years ago casting 8 to 12 pieces at a time in a centrifugal casting machine in rubber molds, and the fidelity one can achieve is very fine when well executed. also doing what you have done Mick by making the part in more than one piece. I agree the original leaves a lot to be desired.

Michael
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
No Doubt about the improvement! But I have to add that the white metal looks like it has come from a tired or poorly vulcanized mold or a poorly made master.
I have cast thousands of parts in white metal 50 years ago casting 8 to 12 pieces at a time in a centrifugal casting machine in rubber molds, and the fidelity one can achieve is very fine when well executed. also doing what you have done Mick by making the part in more than one piece. I agree the original leaves a lot to be desired.

Michael
I have to agree, fresh moulds produce some exquisite castings, the problem I've noticed is that people hang onto moulds for production long past their sell by date, clearly maximizing their profit at the expense of the customer, that's not a practice I particularly applaud to be honest.
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
there being a peg on the spring to fit into a socket in the axle box to locate the two accurately.
Curious what sort of adhesive you might use for attaching parts like this to each other? Wholly agree on the process of mating multiple parts to facilitate orientation and finish. I'm considering CA or some sort of epoxy adhesive, do you have an opinion?
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Curious what sort of adhesive you might use for attaching parts like this to each other? Wholly agree on the process of mating multiple parts to facilitate orientation and finish. I'm considering CA or some sort of epoxy adhesive, do you have an opinion?
I use Devcon 5 minute epoxy, it's a two part compound you mix and then join the parts. It's a more tacky rubbery type of adhesive, as opposed to CA which is very thin. To be fair you only need hold the parts together, most of the strength comes from the axle box being bonded to the frames and the spring rear face as well.

The axle box is not a flat on flat joint but a slot arrangement on the back of the axle box, hard to describe so a picture is worthy of inclusion.

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On the left an assembled unit, the green circles are all on one plane and sit flat on the side frame when fitted, you can add adhesive into the securing grooves as well. In the middle an inverted unit showing how the grooves secure the unit to the frames and hold it in place, on the right a disassembled unit showing securing grooves and peg/hole to join the two parts together.

Spending some time on how the item will fix and bond to the model is important to stop bits dropping off at a later date, sometimes that can be the harder part of developing a replacement 3D part.

I avoid a flat on flat fixing and will always use some other form of fixing as a back up, either designed into the 3D part, as in this case, or hollowed out 3D parts that sit over brass wire staples, pegs, hoops soldered to the model which aid adhesive strength.

I'll use Devcon to bond the two parts together, Devcon in the securing grooves and probably CA on the flat bonding surfaces.
 
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