7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

[mickoo]

A quick question for the collective, does anyone recognize these couplings, I need a replacement for the engine and rather than swap this out for another brand to make a matching pair I'd like one of these, even if the second one goes in the bin.

Word has they're either Premier Components or Tower Models.

Excuse the poor phone picture, it's primary function is as a communication device, not a camera

 

[Paul Tomlinson]

These are Premier ones :

 

[mickoo]

They look pretty much the same to me, I think the brass screw has been swapped out for a steel one on the tender and the links polished. The hook looks like it might have been replaced with nickel silver as well or maybe Premier used that material in the past.

Much appreciated.

 

[simond]

They’re Premier, or a very good copy thereof!

Bill used steel or brass for the hooks, the links are steel. The screws were steel on the last lot I had, don’t recall seeing brass screws. I’m not aware of him ever using NS for the hooks.

Very definitely worth crimping the last couple of threads, particularly on a garden line. Very annoying to lose the last link.

 

[mickoo]

They’re Premier, or a very good copy thereof!

Bill used steel or brass for the hooks, the links are steel. The screws were steel on the last lot I had, don’t recall seeing brass screws.

Very definitely worth crimping the last couple of threads, particularly on a garden line. Very annoying to lose the last link.

I think I espy brass screws in the bag above?, the one on the tender is steel, easy enough to replace as they look like 8 or 10BA.

It'd be harder to replace the brass hook so looks like I'll have to tin it and polish carefully, the model is primarily for display with the odd run now and again. I'll dab some solder on the end of the thread to stop the lower link winding off....good call that.

Thanks for all the info, it'll get parked now until nearer the new year delivery date, the hook will only take a wee while to fit. The rest of the repairs are complete so I can now focus on other bigger projects, all a bit plate spinning right now.

 

[Lancastrian]

First a disclaimer, not my design, artwork or thunder theft, that goes to another talented member of this parish, I just punt it through the machine and quite frankly I'm impressed.

Every now and again someone sends you a file to test print and my reaction is 'you're having a larf pal', this being a perfect example.

However, a little back and forth, some tweaks to the design, a few compromises on pure scale viz practical production and a bundle of orientation test prints find it staggeringly all works.

View attachment 176481

View attachment 176482

View attachment 176483

View attachment 176484

There's a little play in the brass tube socket, that's a working gap for the adhesive; it's better to have a small gap here, rather than a tight joint that might stress the base and potentially crack it over time.

All processed at 50 microns and a basic waft with tools and sand paper to get rid of the biggest support artifacts. The smaller details might benefit from a 30 micron print but then the average viewing of these may well be 1 yd or more, in which case the extra time needed to print that might not be worth it.

Mick,

Thankfully our group secretary, who proposed these signal heads to me doesn't frequent WT, and I'm keeping it under wraps from him about the development. He believes we can't do them, especially after Peter Reynolds received a quote from a company to have them printed in nickel-silver at £200 each, with the caveat that they don't normally do items this small.

I'll get the other .stl files over to you shortly.

Ian

 

[simond]

I think I espy brass screws in the bag above?, the one on the tender is steel, easy enough to replace as they look like 8 or 10BA.

It'd be harder to replace the brass hook so looks like I'll have to tin it and polish carefully, the model is primarily for display with the odd run now and again. I'll dab some solder on the end of the thread to stop the lower link winding off....good call that.

Thanks for all the info, it'll get parked now until nearer the new year delivery date, the hook will only take a wee while to fit. The rest of the repairs are complete so I can now focus on other bigger projects, all a bit plate spinning right now.

I’m sure that screw is brass, but I don’t think any that I have are!

Bill definitely has steel hooks, I did the drawing for the stamping tool. I tend to blacken the brass ones, but if the customer wants a bright one…

atb
Simon

 

[adrian]

The Invertrain ones are to the same design (manufacturer) but use steel stampings for the hook, bolt, etc.

Screw Couplings (Pair) | INVERTRAIN

These are after a quick dunk in the blackening solution.

 

[adrian]

Just remembered - I ordered a few spares - so this is what you get from Invertrain (non-blackened).

 

[mickoo]

Mick,

Thankfully our group secretary, who proposed these signal heads to me doesn't frequent WT, and I'm keeping it under wraps from him about the development. He believes we can't do them, especially after Peter Reynolds received a quote from a company to have them printed in nickel-silver at £200 each, with the caveat that they don't normally do items this small.

I'll get the other .stl files over to you shortly.

Ian

Ooops, my bad I thought they were common public knowledge after seeing some posts on FB a while back.

He's going to be in for a shock then

 

[mickoo]

The stirling single has polished hooks and couplings, they did that sort of thing back in the day, not just a customer requirement but 1:1 applicable to that period. The same was applied to the turn of the century Duke I did.

 

[mickoo]

Just remembered - I ordered a few spares - so this is what you get from Invertrain (non-blackened).
View attachment 176601

I think that might be worth a punt as it matches the tender perfectly, much appreciated.

 

[Lancastrian]

Ooops, my bad I thought they were common public knowledge after seeing some posts on FB a while back.

He's going to be in for a shock then

Mick,

It's ok, as long as no-one blags ! I believe I'm the only member of our group on WT. To all WT'ers, make sure it doesn't appear on the Guild Forum....lol.

I'll read your email a little later. Busy day at the NRM where I came across a number of drawings missing !

Ian

 

[mickoo]

Mick,

It's ok, as long as no-one blags ! I believe I'm the only member of our group on WT. To all WT'ers, make sure it doesn't appear on the Guild Forum....lol.

I'll read your email a little later. Busy day at the NRM where I came across a number of drawings missing !

Ian

Sorted, I'll put the photos back when you give the all clear

Just a couple of scaling issues to be fair and we're good to go, 50% is okay and all done and packaged up, just need the other 50% resolved and that'll go in the pouch as soon as it's cured

 

[mickoo]

Mick,

It's ok, as long as no-one blags ! I believe I'm the only member of our group on WT. To all WT'ers, make sure it doesn't appear on the Guild Forum....lol.

I'll read your email a little later. Busy day at the NRM where I came across a number of drawings missing !

Ian

If they were missing, how did you come across them? surely that makes them not missing

 

[Lancastrian]

If they were missing, how did you come across them? surely that makes them not missing

Nutter

Ian

 

[mickoo]

A slow week last week, Xmas wasn't to blame either and no it doesn't get in the way very much at all, glad to see the back of it personally.

I thought I'd take a poke at the JLTRT King, oh dear To be fair it hasn't come from JLTRT but MM1 so maybe the original kits were a bit better, still, in for a penny, in for a pound. Yes, I fully expect I'm in a majority of one with regards to the aspects I'm not happy with, but hey ho and as I said, very little Christmas spirit here.

The etches are good, I kind of expected that being an Ex Mitchell kit and the brass castings are on the whole usable, the white metal is sadly pretty much all trash.





The instructions left me in a bit of a quandary, never that good with the written text and even that is scant and the photocopies of photocopies of pencil drawings often leave blank spaces, I just gave up in the end, opened a set of Finney 3500G instructions and cross referenced what I could. The actual scoop was missing from the box so a good excuse to try something I've wanted to do for a while, hollow scoops, it came out rather well.

The hand brake crank is the wrong type, there are no riser arms to the threaded fitting at the top, the kit just has the threaded rod going direct to a fixed pivot on the arm, so when the brake pulls on the hole lot...and presumably the stand....lifts skyward

The rest of the week was spent drawing up replacement white metal bits for 3D printing, the filler lid had an artifact on it which shew up once painted, so that needs addressing before fitting.



As a quick comparison the 3D viz white metal.



The tool boxes are just junk, shifted in the mold and hideous flash, plus no corner cut out on the lid, the filler and lid (individual items) are flash riddled and distorted. I'm sure the kit axle box is way to small when compared to photos of the real thing and I also added the spring retention plate, it might be in the kit but there's no mention of it so I might have to also punch extra rivets on the valance where it bolts in place. The bracket may also be a preservation thing so need to cross check that but it's easily removed in CAD and the units reprinted.



I still need to draw up the vacuum reservoir and then fabricate some sort of plate to fix it to, not as easy as it sounds as it has to clear the equalizing beam (1.4 mm NS wire as no beam supplied in the kit) that runs right through the same area.

 

[OzzyO]

Best of luck I built a number of them. They are of there age.

OzzyO.

 

[mickoo]

Best of luck I built a number of them. They are of there age.

OzzyO.

Yes, that would be a polite way to put it

Luckily we have the technology these days to overcome......

 

[OzzyO]

Mike,

I forgot to say start forming the outer frames now as I seem to remember a problem with the fit with the steps and the inside frames. IIRC the inside bit was to wide to fit between the steps.

OzzyO.