Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I’m a muppet. I just found the box containing the cast MU gear.
Honestly, I'd lose my head if it wasn’t screwed on.
Honestly, I'd lose my head if it wasn’t screwed on.
7mm On Heather's Workbench - 37 Varieties
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Join the club, you,l be welcomeHonestly, I'd lose my head if it wasn’t screwed on.
Regards
Allen
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
While armchair modelling for roof details - reader, there isn’t anything to add - it became apparent that 37 106 had lost its steam heat boiler and associated access equipment by the time I’m trying to model it. The water tank, though, still seems to be in place. A bit of filling required on the bodywork, then. I’ve marked what needs dealing with in the photo; the grab rails, steps and doors are the same both sides, and the boiler exhaust port just needs a plate over it.
The bogie fettling is beginning to loom up, too.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The best technique for filling deep holes seems to be to plug them with styrene of various sorts, then use filler for the remaining gaps. I am currently at the "am I sure I want to take this irreversible step" stage. I really should strip the paint so glue or solvent can grab to the bare plastic. That would be best, but messy. Pondering mode engaged.
I did wonder what was done with what appear to be safety valves for the boiler. Like the exhaust flue, I think the holes were just plated up. I also noted those crosswise strips were often removed - but not always. I can’t tell from the photos what 106 had done, so I’m going to leave them be.
LarryG
Western Thunderer
Personally I would leave well alone seeing as historical anachronism looks better than cock-up.
You could glue those pieces of plastikard in with Loctite superglue then use Loctite as filler afterwards. The trouble starts when levelling off the 'filler' without damaging surrounding detail.
You could glue those pieces of plastikard in with Loctite superglue then use Loctite as filler afterwards. The trouble starts when levelling off the 'filler' without damaging surrounding detail.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Good plan, Larry. When I was fitting the windscreen surrounds, I discovered the Zap-a-Gap CA glue I was using was dissolving the paint! I’ve never had a CA dissolve any paint before, so I don’t know what Heljan are using!
I agree leaving things be might be the best way forward, but I’ve already begun hacking things about - like the horn grilles on the nose, and things look better for it. I will check with the client before committing to permanent changes, though.
That would work. As I say, I will confer before I commit. I think I can make good the surface well enough if we do go ahead.
Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Here is 37403s blanking plate on the roof.
How I treat them on ex Jltrt kits is to push filler up through the two holes and smooth off with blunt scalpel, once painted and weathered it sits fine.
Another view while I was getting ready to fit the new cab windows to 37403.
How I treat them on ex Jltrt kits is to push filler up through the two holes and smooth off with blunt scalpel, once painted and weathered it sits fine.
Another view while I was getting ready to fit the new cab windows to 37403.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
There is a third PH Design etch for the 37 which has all the blanking plates on it and the steps I'm about to send you Heather, if Phil wants to spend another £18 one.
Richard
Richard
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the heads-up Richard. 
In the photos I have of 106 I can’t see any evidence of platework on the sides where the changes were made. In one of my reference books, there’s a photo of a loco a couple of stops up the number range which also shows a distinct lack of evidence of replacement panel work. So, I’m happy to just fill and make good, and fabricate simple plastic sheet platework for the roof.
In the photos I have of 106 I can’t see any evidence of platework on the sides where the changes were made. In one of my reference books, there’s a photo of a loco a couple of stops up the number range which also shows a distinct lack of evidence of replacement panel work. So, I’m happy to just fill and make good, and fabricate simple plastic sheet platework for the roof.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Just seen this thread! So are you doing 37106 in mid 70's? I have two pictures of it in 1978 showing it still having a boiler exhaust but looks like the access steps are filled in.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Think this is what your after re the bogie steps.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
You will have to remove the ribs on the boiler compartment though as from 37096 upwards these were not fitted.
A couple here to show what I mean.
A couple here to show what I mean.
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
This is the only picture I have of a step before painting.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Brian, thanks ever so much for that info. All grist to the mill, as they say.
For the boiler roof ribs, as they also say, to get there I wouldn’t start from here! I think a client consultation is definitely required before I get too much more carried away!
For the boiler roof ribs, as they also say, to get there I wouldn’t start from here! I think a client consultation is definitely required before I get too much more carried away!
Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
I would put the window surrounds on the other way. Original windows were fixed in with a thick rubber but later mods have made them stick out on a frame to accept a thicker glass. The etch was basically designed to have the lip inside to assist with placing inside the window aperture.
Picture of one I did earlier and a couple of real ones showing the difference.
Picture of one I did earlier and a couple of real ones showing the difference.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
A slow start to the the week. On Monday, I had some new storage drawers delivered. As they were flat pack I needed somewhere flat to unpack them and put them together. Clear, flat areas are at a premium in this house, so I had to clear the bench to make room.
Tuesday, well, I didn’t sleep at all well the night before. I was suffering a proper case of the Muttleys, so I pottered about trying to keep myself busy. We also popped out to visit a small charitable thing we support in our own little way, which sort of helped lift my mood a bit.
So, today, I heaved at the bootstraps, found some loins to gird, and set to.
The boiler room roof strips were dealt with. They didn’t take as long as I’d feared. I’ll leave the flue and safety valves alone. The steps on the sides were blocked in and filler slathered all over. When that’s hardened, I’ll get in there with sanding sticks and other implements.
The etched windscreen surrounds were carefully prised off, cleaned up, and refitted the other way up.
So, that’s done. Time to make more mess and clean up the sides. I suspect I’ll need to deploy the paint booth soon to get some primer on the shell to see what damage needs repairing. I am building up, still, to working on the bogies. I want to add the various brake lines, but I hope that won’t take too long.
I tell you, engine picking on kettles is nothing to diseasels.
Tuesday, well, I didn’t sleep at all well the night before. I was suffering a proper case of the Muttleys, so I pottered about trying to keep myself busy. We also popped out to visit a small charitable thing we support in our own little way, which sort of helped lift my mood a bit.
So, today, I heaved at the bootstraps, found some loins to gird, and set to.
The boiler room roof strips were dealt with. They didn’t take as long as I’d feared. I’ll leave the flue and safety valves alone. The steps on the sides were blocked in and filler slathered all over. When that’s hardened, I’ll get in there with sanding sticks and other implements.
The etched windscreen surrounds were carefully prised off, cleaned up, and refitted the other way up.
So, that’s done. Time to make more mess and clean up the sides. I suspect I’ll need to deploy the paint booth soon to get some primer on the shell to see what damage needs repairing. I am building up, still, to working on the bogies. I want to add the various brake lines, but I hope that won’t take too long.
I tell you, engine picking on kettles is nothing to diseasels.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Until I get a light primer coat on to show up flaws I am calling that good enough. I need to reinstate a pair of screw heads above the filled skirting step, but that’s no problem.
Now the recent lack of sleep is catching up with me. I think I’ll do some further drawer filling, now I have extra drawers to use.
michael mott
Western Thunderer
Heather, I don't know if you have made yourself one of these types of little sanding pads,
but they work like charm. basically it is a model aircraft clevis stuck on the end of a pole with a screw through the end and then a short lenght of Plastruct "T" section that snaps onto the screw. I made it snap on so that the pads could be swapped out easily and quickly without fiddling with the screw. The various sandpapers (wet and dry) were stuck on with double sided carpet tape.
The reason I like Using them is because it puts an even pressure on the area to be sanded as the pad is self leveling like a drywall sander only in miniature. and you can add all sorts of shapes.
Michael