On Heather's Workbench - right out of the box

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Wow! Excellent service from HMRS. I posted my order off on Sunday (so that's Monday really) and the sheet arrived in the mail today. I was expecting a wait, as they say you should allow 28 days.

No excuses not to finish this coach properly. :thumbs:

I'm off to complete the painting on the bogies, and I've made a start on the floor and toilet compartment painting.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
While I await paint drying - watching it dry is another hobby which may have its place here - here's a progress update.

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The seats have been cleaned up and painted. They're not getting the full patterned treatment like Richard's got.

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The tables have been constructed, top (visible surface) given a coat of matt black, and the "legs" likewise. Later, the table edge will be picked out in a dark earth brown and the whole shebang given a quick coat of satin varnish.

You can just spot the reinforcing strip I used to support the legs: 1mm square Evergreen. I may do the same to support the foot when it's glued to the floor. I know this is beyond the OOTB remit, but from experience if you don't reinforce the joints like this whole tables, although normally just the tops, come adrift at some point where it becomes a pain in the proverbial.

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Finally, the toilets and partitions have been fixed to the floor. Once the seats and tables are done the whole interior can be assembled.

Which means I guess I should get the sides and ends painted fairly quickly. :thumbs:
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Looks like you have had a visit from Aardvark Animation's favourites... there is a definite presence in the last photo which seems "appropriate" given that you had a "Grand Day Out" at the S7 meeting ;) .
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
there is a definite presence in the last photo which seems "appropriate" given that you had a "Grand Day Out" at the S7 meeting ;) .

Ah yes, the rocket.

"Cracking toast, Gromit!"

It's actually called a Rocket Blaster. It's supposed to live in my photo gear bag, but it's eminently useful at blowing filings and bits off the workbench - on to wet paint, usually. :rant:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I've been trying to get paint on the sides and ends. I have a love-hate relationship with paint applied under pressure. I can well understand why some folk prefer to leave it to others more capable. :bowdown:

Anyway, the ends have some blue on them. It needs a couple more coats to be the right shade, I think. The sides, well, they had a coat of grey primer (as seen at Brightwell), and got a couple of coats of rattle-can BR grey yesterday. Close inspection today showed all manner of problems, so I thought I'd rub down, fill the worst excesses of splodginess, and recoat.

Hmph.

Anyway, I have spent this afternoon rubbing down again, cleaning up my mess, and have just got another coat of primer on. Hopefully tomorrow I will get a couple of decent coats of BR grey on, then I can mask out and get blue on.

All the transfers are here, but I am - surprise! - pending some parts from JLTRT.. Thankfully, not parts that significantly hold up the construction process, so it's highly likely things will be more or less finished next Monday.

Now, if Mr Postman can get those Colletts to me, I can make a start on those. My bubbles of interest are beginning to drift about. ;)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The plaques are not sorted out yet. I'm working on it.

One of my bubbles is a Dennis F8 fire appliance in 1/43rd scale. It wouldn't stop nagging at me as I passed the shelf earlier. It's somehow found its way to my workbench. :confused:
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
The plaques are not sorted out yet. I'm working on it.

One of my bubbles is a Dennis F8 fire appliance in 1/43rd scale. It wouldn't stop nagging at me as I passed the shelf earlier. It's somehow found its way to my workbench. :confused:

Those I find are the best bubbles! I call them stealth bubbles, they sneak up on you and pounce when your most vulnerable, they're very clever, they know exactly what you need, even when you didn't, so their appearance is always a pleasure :thumbs:

The Trolls of Yordligkobing fjord oft whisper of their healing powers so they need courting and wooing, not admonishment for distracting you from other chores, which you foolishly believe to be more important.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
While not perfect, the grey paint has finally played ball. No orange peel, and reasonably smooth. I think I'll let it harden properly overnight before I mask for the blue.

Now, should I start playing with the Dennis, or continue with the Sentinel aircraft tug for yet another of those bubbles?
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Things always go quiet during builds when I'm busy painting. The main reason for this is I may spend 10 minutes in the spray booth, then leave things to dry in the Advanced Drying Facility, during which time I get on with other tasks. I pop in and out of the spray booth until there is enough paint in a dust-free form on the sides that I deem them ready for lining and transfers.

As this coach is basically complete, apart from the paint, I'm busy boning up on Collett coaches, and ducking in an attempt to avoid that Dennis F8 bubble. Once the Mk2 is out of the way, I shall begin the Collett builds in earnest. I'm looking forward to that.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Finally, the blue coats were deemed adequate. They are no more than adequate, for the following reason: I simply couldn't get the paint/thinners mix right this time. I really should work out a systematic method of getting the proportions right.

I know a bad worker blames their tools, but I do think I need to seriously consider a new airbrush. My venerable Badger 120 is showing signs of age. Before anyone makes any recommendations, please bear in mind I do not like those dual-action triggers. I prefer to set the spray size and then just fire away. I can keep things pretty consistent that way, without having to press and twiddle all at once. I'm just old skool with this kind of technology.

Anyway, carefully lifting the masking tape revealed it could have been a lot worse. I used the traditional masking tape this time, instead of the experimental aluminium foil masking I used on Richard's coaches. That technique needs a fair bit more testing, I think.

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I got a bit of a ridge along the masked area, annoyingly. That will make lining difficult, so it'll had to be dealt with by a sharp blade. I also noticed the masking went on with a slight bow, dipping towards the tumblehome slightly in the centre of the bottom. :headbang: After a quick attempt at cleaning up, when more of the blue started to come away from the cellulose grey than I felt comfortable with, I decided it would be prudent to clean up as best as possible and give the sides a coat of satin varnish to seal things.

While that was drying, I tackled the laser-cut plastic ventilators. As ever, the cutting was indifferent, but luckily I had been sent a pair of BSO vent sheets as well as the missing SO sheet. Two BSOs equals one SO, as far as main window count goes, and the SO toilet vents were adequate.

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I gave the sheets a squirt of Hafords grey acrylic primer, then decided I really should have rubbed the laser cut burr down before I started. :rolleyes: Do you ever get the feeling you're having one of those days? So, fine wet and dry was applied to get the worst off, and then I gave the whole shooting match a squirt of the BR grey. Into the Advanced Drying Facility with the sides, while I got on with something else for a while to settle my nerves.

Some time later...

The varnish had dried nicely, so I retouched the worst of the chipped blue with a fine sable brush. I left that to dry sufficiently that I could attempt the lining. I figured it would make sense to do the lining, then I could see the dipped section mentioned earlier and be able to retouch with a bow pen and fine brush up to the white line.

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Tools. I first tried the gouache on Richard's coaches, and it was pretty successful. The key is getting the paint thinned sufficiently that it flows from the bow pen and doesn't "ball up" on the surface. I found the ideal consistency is slightly thinner than a typical well-stirred new tin of Humbrol enamel, if that makes sense. I loaded the bow pen with a brush, rather than dip it in the mixture, wiping off excess from the outside faces on a kitchen towel.

I use an 18in aluminium rule made by Linex. It has a rubberised back which prevents it slipping, and the measuring edge has a slight undercut which prevents paint or ink wicking underneath. I'm getting enough practice now I can more or less line out a BR coach without needing to mark it up first!

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With the gouache I find I need a couple of passes with the bow pen to get the coverage. This doesn't always go to plan, but being water-based, it's fairly easy to clean up with a dampened cotton bud. In the case above, the paint on the end of the bow pen had begun to dry. In such circumstances, I wash the whole pen out in water, and clean it up with towel, reload and try again.

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Here's the gap between the white line and where the blue should be. You can also see the flaking edge. Heather was not a happy bunny, and created a fair old fireworks display when she saw it.

Not to worry, it'll be alright on the night. How about corners?

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Rounded corners are a proper nightmare. I created a series of templates many moons ago, designed to allow me to create the lining for BR steam locos. Happily, the template for the inner red line is just right for the BR blue/grey lining, or near enough anyway. In order to hold the small template I used a blob of blu-tack and a cocktail stick. To draw the corner, I find it best to draw it in short steps, rather than majestically sweep around the curve - mainly because it's all but impossible to do the latter with a bow pen as you have to maintain the orientation to keep the paint flowing.

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Most of it went according to plan. A little tidying up with a fine brush and suitable paint is all that's needed.

I'm now letting my nerves settle again. Final tidying will be tomorrow, I think. Each side will then get a coat of gloss varnish for the transfers, and finally a coat of satin to seal it all in.

I still need to paint the inner sides, and paint the ends where the gangway connections go. Once that's dry, glazing and final assembly. We're nearly there.
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
I know a bad worker blames their tools, but I do think I need to seriously consider a new airbrush. My venerable Badger 120 is showing signs of age.
That's because a bad worker chooses poor tools, or doesn't repair/replace them when worn.
As this patently isn't the case here, you ain't a bad worker. ;)
 

TheSnapper

Western Thunderer
..........I do think I need to seriously consider a new airbrush. My venerable Badger 120 is showing signs of age. ........I do not like those dual-action triggers. I prefer to set the spray size and then just fire away...........

Hi Heather

What you need is one of these:

http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/revolution/hp-tr2/

I find that dual-action trigger airbrushes are great for fine work, such as weathering, but this type is ideal for laying down a lot of paint on large surfaces - I wouln't be without mine for 7mm work!

Regards

Tim
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I wouln't be without mine for 7mm work!

That's impressive. :cool: Now, I can't get my head around how much paint is actually contained in a half-ounce cup. What's that in metric? A tinlet? Half a tinlet?

I always tend to mix more paint than I think I need for a project. I'd rather have more of a consistent mix than not enough and have to keep making fresh batches. I'm currently using large capacity glass jars, around the 50cc size.

I've just found Squires carry the entire Badger range and spares, so I think I can get away with getting a replacement tip (which is the bit that's worn on mine). That'll be cheaper than buying into a whole new system right now, but I'll carry on investigating the options for an upgrade at a later date.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Right. Transfer time!

I've done the gauge restriction and speed data on the ends. What I need to know now is the dimension from either the bottom of the body, or the bottom of the window frame, of the baseline for Inter-City and the running number.

Anyone? :oops:
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I wouldn't worry about it Heather, just look at some photos, the I lines up with the edge of the first window, but the height seems to vary, its somewhere between the midpoint and towards the white line. There doesn't appear to be any consistency as far as I can see. Go and have a look on 80sRail.

Richard
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard. It does appear to shift about a bit, doesn't it. The only certainty is the horizontal location under the first main window.

You'd've thought someone would have the official spec somewhere on th'internets.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
On the back of the HMRS 7mm transfer sheet, there's a reference to "65mm from the bottom of the body". That dimension doesn't seem to refer to anything in this dimension...

Anyway, here's the result, now hardening before I clean off the gum tomorrow morning and get a coat of satin varnish on it all.

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There's supposed to be a strip of info below the "SO(A) 100MPH" text about heating and braking. Not on the transfer sheet I have, and there wouldn't be room anyway. :oops:

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Getting those perishing numbers aligned is Hard Work. I had two attempts at the 6, and even then one still slipped. :rant:

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I think this bit came out okay.

After the satin varnish fix coat, the interior painting needs to be done, then the glazing. I must remember to do it in the right order.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Satin coat done, paint has been applied to the inside, er, sides. When that's dry, I'll set about the glazing. I'm spending the time between watching the paint dry by picking out the various bits on the buffer beam, and getting deep into Western stuff (researching Collett coaches for the next thing on the bench).

Nearly there now.
 
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