7mm On Heather's Workbench - The other Twin

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
In need of a respite from brass wrangling, and not wishing to get too stuck into the WD loco part, I thought it was time to spend a little while on this build.

While the JLTRT body castings are pretty good, they're not quite right for the customer's requirements for 10001 as it ran on Southern Region metals in 1954. I am just checking with the correct date with the customer, as this has a bearing on some of the finer nose details, but meanwhile I am getting on with the mods required that I can confirm.

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Some flush fitted access panels at the No2 end, plus some screws around the vent panel. I've also scribed the various panel lines in on the lower body sections. One problem I can't overcome is the clean air filter panels - the block of three rectangular grilles on each side. For SR use, these grilles were flush fitted. This would mean wholesale removal of the moulded grilles in order to replicate the appearance. I may have to chat with Laurie to see if the grilles are moulded correctly for the later iterations of the loco…

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For some reason, the body strips on 10001 stop short of the cab doors. I carefully scraped and sanded the moulding back. I used a graphite pencil as witness marks to avoid me sanding too far. On the nose, next to the corridor connection doors, two triangular welded plates were fitted with extra marker disc brackets were fitted n May 1954. This is one of the date points I need to confirm with the customer, before I either remove the plates or drill holes for the brackets!

Meanwhile, as the Drifters sang, "Up On The Roof"…

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The boiler flue is incorrect. I used some Evergreen styrene strip to plug the deep slots, which was then carved and filled to make it flush with the roof profile. The boiler room vent panels are moulded as one block, when they should be split into a pair. They're also a little large, but I decided not to ruin the riveted strip and simply carved the space between them.

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Here's the boiler flue replacement in progress. There are various other grilles and panels that need to be added to the roof to be correct. Most of these will be bits box and fabricated from styrene sheet.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
For those three panels, could you cut off all three as a block, fit flush and fill round them?

That's an option. However, as the flush fitting ought to be available for the kit so it can build the loco to represent its later form, I shall tap Laurie first before I attempt major surgery.

UPDATE: As I said, the kits come in early and late forms. The later form sides have the flush grilles. Laurie is happy to sort some out for me, and I'll collect them at Telford.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Some progress on the roof over the boiler compartment.

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The new boiler vent cover, some thin styrene shaped and superglued on a small off cut below it so it's just proud of the roof profile, it still needs a little shaping.

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Marking out in progress for the various roof plates. I suppose these were missed out from the masters because they moved about and varied through the life of the locos. These will be fabricated from thin styrene sheet with the traditional slices of fine styrene rod as the screw heads, then cyanoed in place. Pilot holes have been drilled for the three mushroom-style vents.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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Cooling grilles over generator end of the engine. Thin styrene with strip louvres, scraped and sanded to shape. Dimensions are from the Hunt supplement book, with details gleaned from various photos.

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Three mushroom vents for the boiler end. The one next to the boiler flue is, I think, for water overflow, possibly the steam pressure valve. The other two I can't identify. Brass rod, in the Dremel, attacked with files to get the domed shape. The bases are suitable brass washers.

I think that'll do for this session. The cover plates will take me longer to fabricate, so I will leave them while I cogitate on the best method.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Before I put this build back on the shelf again, I though I'd have a go at fettling Simon T's superb rendition of the 16SVT and get it settled in place within the body.

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Viewed from above, you can see it's a bit tight. It's not a problem. On the real thing, there'd be more space down the sides.

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To get the engine and generator assembly to fit neatly I had to just trim back one of the side location strips moulded on the floor. In this configuration, using a traditional motor and gearbox will only fit in the radiator (No1) end. To fit another motor and gearbox would mean sacrificing part of the generator set. The only other mod to the engine print was to trim down the turbo exhausts to clear the roof.

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I'm not planning on internal lighting, so a little detailing of pipework and cabling will make a lovely impression, I think.
 

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
A great result there! Can't help but imagine it'd want some serious oil and grime all over it though.... what, with the historical reputation of British diesel engines and all....
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
That looks nice Heather all you want now are a few more pipes and bits, like on this one, one of the few true types of E.E. engines of the correct type that were fitted to 10000/1, that are left.

Engine makers plate,
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The full engine,
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OK the gen. has gone, but most of the bits are in place.

HTH

OzzyO.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Mmm, nice. My inner detail geek wants to put all kinds of things in the engine compartment, but I have to rein it in.

I do need to source some nice works and shed plates. Severn Mill doesn't seem to do them, so I think I'll have to talk to Guilplates or one of the others.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
It's been over two years since I picked this build up!

As I explained at the outset, it's for a friend and on a pro bono kind of basis. The box has languished on my shelf since the summer of 2014, pushed further down the build schedule as each new paying commission arrived. Another 10001 has been through the works, currently off being equipped with electronics. Experience of that build has encouraged me that I may be able to turn this stalled build round quickly after all. It has been helped by the acquisition of a surplus power bogie from an upgrade done to another loco.

So, I'm currently reviewing where I got to, and what needs to be done before I glue it all together. Watch this space!
 

Compton castle

Western Thunderer
Mmm, nice. My inner detail geek wants to put all kinds of things in the engine compartment, but I have to rein it in.

I do need to source some nice works and shed plates. Severn Mill doesn't seem to do them, so I think I'll have to talk to Guilplates or one of the others.
Try Narrow Planet. They are very good
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Stephen. I actually got some from Guilplates in the end. Although they don't list them as such, they will do them to order.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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Best Beloved is suffering from man flu, so between tending to him and not feeling quite the full deck of cards myself, I managed to work out what needed doing and did some of it. The roof is now detailed, as well as a major start made on the shore supply and lubrication fillers on the underframe. I'll titivate the latter today, and get the brake parts installed today.

I shall make a start on the bogie frame upgrades later, if the invalid lets me!
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

That is some very nice mods to the roof. You must have the patience of a saint to be adding small slithers of plastic rod as the bolts/ fastenings.

Does look very good though :thumbs:

Cheers
Lee
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Slow progress today, between bouts of acting as nurse to Best Beloved. He's on the mend, but he does ham it up sometimes.

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I fitted the vac cylinders and rigging, and titivated the details I made up yesterday. Silly things like cap retention chains, which will probably fall off before I'm finished!

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Another silly detail is extra horn brackets at No2 end. Experiments, apparently, were made with two-tone horns between 1949 and 1951, but the brackets remained until the major overhaul in mid-1953. The experiment was only carried out using 10001. My renditions, aided by photos and the detail sketches in the pictorial supplement, were formed of brass angle, 0.5mm wire and a small slice of thin-wall tube. Those pictured are the second attempt. I spent an hour fabricating a matched pair, only to find I'd misjudged the overall height. Still, second time round it was quicker! The centre horn will be fitted later.

I don't think there's much more fiddling detail to do, so body erection can happen once I get replacement M3 bolts from JLTRT. The original ones seem to have wandered off somewhere. I suppose I could put the bogies together.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Having just finished one, I felt in need of more. Out came this build once more! Bogies today.

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First, my simplified spring retention cages. As with the other build, these are thin brass sheet, cut to width and length, soldered together, fretted out and tidied up. They're not quite right in shape and detail, but adequate for the job in hand. I didn't feel strong enough to form the pipes for the hornguide lubrication today.

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Most of the brasswork and main assembly is now done. Once the oil pipes and the railguards are fitted, and if the weather stays springlike long enough, I might get some primer on these.

Another job for tomorrow will be making up the trailing bogie chassis. I have a recovered motor bogie, which I will refurbish and use. If I managed to keep my finger pulled out, I may even manage to get most of this beast ready for the paint shop this week. :eek:
 
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