7mm On Heather's Workbench - The other Twin

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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I did the oil pipes. As with the other build, each was formed freestyle using small round nosed pliers. I began to think about setting up the trailing bogie, but got sidelined by refurbishing the old motor bogie instead. This involved some disassembly so I could replace the quite worn Slater's plungers, as well as clean up a good deal of lubrication. A patch was fitted to reinforce a crack - it was deemed too much effort to move everything over to a second frame, as the delrin sprockets had been pinned to their axles - and while the wheels were off they were given some Birchwood Casey treatment. I'll set about the trailer tomorrow.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Today I set to and wired up the bogies for current collection, blackened the wheels, and then noticed the temperature in the paint shop was well into double figures. Time to get paint on things - first time this year!

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With the underframe and bogie frames up in the paint shop getting satin black top coat and white primer applied (along with a certain pannier tank getting some treatment as well), here's what's left on the bench. I'm going to prime the cabs, body sides and roof while they're in pieces, mainly because I'm not quite ready to stick them all together. Hopefully, they'll get a dose of red oxide this evening so I can see what might need filling and fettling before I think about top coats.

Blimey! It all happens a bit quick sometimes.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Heather,

I'm delighted to see you using one of those weird "clamp on a file handle thingies" to hold some little people, presumably for painting. I bought one some years ago, thinking, "mmm, that looks useful", and don't think I've used it twice. At least I now have some inspiration!

What is the V2 for?

Best
Simon
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
What is the V2 for?

Ha! It's actually a rocket-shaped blower/puffer. It is even named a Rocket blower. It's supposed to live in my camera bag for puffing dust off things, but I find it just as useful around the bench. Ideal for blowing glass fibre scratch brush shards out of things, when blowing with my face might risk ending up with some lodged about my person. Ouch!

The clamp doesn't get used a lot. It has a lot of little pegs which are supposed to let you clamp oddly shaped items, but I find - as you have - it isn't quite as useful as it should be. Holding tiddley peeps by their pegs is the current best use, although it should be useful for when a jeweller's hand vice isn't quite big enough.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Having been a bit of a bench queen since March, I've been pondering the next stages in this build.

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As noted above, I'd squirted a quick coat of red oxide primer on the body parts. I then screwed the parts to the chassis, and that's where things stayed, lurking on the test plank, biding its time. Yesterday, with the 2251 drawing to a logical conclusion, and July well under way, I brought 10001 forward and had another look at things.

A spot of remedial work was needed, revealed by the primer coat. The cosmetic engine got a dose of silver paint, because I was sick of looking at it in naked form! The bogies had also been given a coat of silver/aluminium, and the chassis was satin black. Things looked okay.

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While the soldering iron was on, I got round to joining the bogies together so the chassis was able to haul itself along under power for the first time. It will need a fair amount of weight in strategic places to give it some adhesion: I'm pretty sure the soldering iron brass sponge won't do, but it's fine for testing purposes! I must call the client and have a natter about how heavy he would like the beast.

The engine won't sit where it really ought to be, aligning with various side windows. To be accurate, it needs chopping back by one set of cylinder heads. The surgery won't be visible through the windows, but it seems a shame to do it. The alternative is to have the engine sitting too far the other way. Who would notice? Well, I would, for one. Something I'm still pondering.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Heather,
it looks to be tight on the motors at both ends! Which way do you need it to move? Does it clear the roof now?
Simon
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Simon, this is your Mk1 print. I think the ones fitted to more recent builds had been modified slightly.

The roof height is fine. The major difference is this model has a vertical motor, where the other two are horizontal and have a little clearance at the ends.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Not modifed by me. I presume that this the one where you cut off most of the sump to get it to fit.
Simon
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Could be… though I've now cut off something else so it fits.

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Oops! :oops: It's now the rather rarer V14 version.

To be fair, this unfortunate hack is invisible once installed inside the body, and means the generator end sits in the right place in relation to the various windows.

This is NOT a criticism of Simon's work, and was never intended to come across that way in case anyone thought that might be the case. In the other Ivatt diesels, the motor was mounted horizontally, and aside from some sump surgery the engines fitted in the correct place.

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Having lopped an end off, it made it easier to cram some ballast into the engine! While my client felt something just over a kilogram in weight would be adequate, and I've gone a little further which has resulted in topping the scales at just over 1.1kg, I suspect some further ballast will be required over the motor bogie in due course. This may be a job the client will have to do, in the light of running tests hauling trains. We'll see.

I took the step of gluing sides and ends together earlier. A fresh coat of red oxide primer has just gone on. Tomorrow, I shall probably reinforce the joints internally with some epoxy resin, and then I shall spend a bit of time in the paint shop getting some coats of gloss black airbrushed on.

It'll be nice to get this build finished.
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Shiny black paint was applied to the bodywork yesterday. It ought to have hardened enough for a light sanding to remove the inevitable grollies, and a dusting top coat later.

Meanwhile, my attention turned to installing the truncated engine and assigning the crew.

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Being aware the client may well wish to fit further weight to the floor, with the hollow area inside the battery box a prime target, I've used some self-tappers to hold the engine in place. I shall ponder whether to cover the unused motor slot at the right hand end in this shot.

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Various sources for the cast peeps. I have an ice cream tub where I store a load of cast figures for various builds. I tend to mix and match to fit the model I'm working on, so it's hard to assign a casting to a particular maker. Anyway, with separate arms, I've arranged the driver to be working the power control, with the second man in the act of hopping out of his seat to head for the steam heating boiler room once more to relight the perished after another blowout caused by going under a bridge…

My storage tub seems to have acquired a bag full of spare arms. It's a bit like a miniature tailor's dummy store room! Oddly, I have one arm with the shirt sleeve rolled up, but I'm darned if I can find its opposite number.

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To facilitate removing the body - the dashboard and cab rear will be fitted inside the body, not fitted to the floor - I cut the power control tower from the dash and stuck it to the floor. The reason? The driver's arm would get in the way when fitting the bodywork. You can't actually see the join, so one wonders why the kit wasn't designed with the column as a separate part, like the brake column.

Right, with the Eng v SA second test well under way at Trent Bridge, time to see how the paintwork went.
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
I'm curious about the suspension springs pictured to the right of the Timken journal box in the photo in post #61 at the top of the page. Are they plastic? Cast as integral with the sideframe? Separate springs?

They look quite good. Most of the springs I see on US outline models are underwhelming. They are typically of a wire gauge which is entirely too anemic to convey the proper look. I presume a wire of proper gauge would be too stiff to actually offer any suspension for the mass of most of our models, or at least rolling stock. I've been thinking that a plastic spring might be the solution, affording proper sizing while allowing compression.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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The roof got a coat of aluminium silver today. I have some Bare-Metal matt aluminium foil ready for the waist band. I'm not going to attempt to hand paint this time.

The livery on this one will be the first BR totem. I need to check to see if the client wants a mild weathering done as well.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I ought to be working on another build, but I had the wind in my sails and the enthusiasm to get on with this one.

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I eventually got my eye in on using the Bare-Metal foil. The resin casting doesn't give as sharp an edge to the waist strip as would have been useful. Some of the metal trimming was achieved by careful use of a Swann Morton No15 blade and a steel straight edge. The bits round the nose ends were done Freehand, as it were.

With the transfers done, I'll now let it sit and dry for a spell before getting a dose of protective varnish on. I am tempted to go with a gloss, rather than my usual satin. I think the shine will be more suitable, even under some weathering.
 

Jon Fitness

Western Thunderer
Looks stunning. Gloss varnish with some subtle weathering would suit it I think, as they were kept fairly well scrubbed in the early days.
JF
 
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