On My Virtual Workbench...

Rob R

Western Thunderer
Interesting bolt heads Dave, but they used spikes and trenails


If you're doing separate keys why not go the whole hog and put holes in the chair and supply a selection of Trenails/Spikes/Screws to suit all tastes?:)

As an aside, does anyone know how tall 65lbs bullhead rail is/was? If not, 72lbs would do as a slightly later alternative.

TTFN

Rob R
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
If you're doing separate keys why not go the whole hog and put holes in the chair and supply a selection of Trenails/Spikes/Screws to suit all tastes?:)

Ian Pusey did that with the first white metal chairs for S Scale track way back in the 1960s. The chairs had small dimples which locates the drill to make the holes and he used entomological pins to hold the chairs down. I did see him do this on a demo stand at the London Easter exhibition at the time.:) I've still got some of his original chairs lying around somewhere with the dimples.:)

As an aside, does anyone know how tall 65lbs bullhead rail is/was? If not, 72lbs would do as a slightly later alternative.

Maybe Andy May's page on the S Scale web site might be of use

http://www.s-scale.org.uk/rails.htm

Jim.
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
Dave also forgot to mention the scale keying hammer...;)
The 1972 catalogue of Thos.W.Ward Ltd (Railway Sidings Division), Albion Works, Sheffield S4 7UL shows 3 different track hammers. Actually it only shows the hammer heads so perhaps you had to supply your own handle? No dimensions given so if anybody's got one in their shed...
  • 15. Side Keying Hammer
  • 16. Keying Hammer
  • 17. Spiking Hammer
Hammer Heads.gif
Unfortunately I don't have a copy of the 1872 catalogue so cannot comment on what the GER might have been using at the time.
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
They are LNER boltheads, could be later replacements? They'll just have to wait until later in the week.
fixings.jpg
Shown here somewhat larger than 7mm scale as they both scale out at a little over 3mm tall. The GER spike is 0.51mm diameter which probably won't 3d-print very well; likewise the required holes through the chair. The GER trenail is a little larger with the parallel section being 0.73mm diameter but I don't know where you'd get a drill that size and shape to clean out the holes in the chairs. I'll add a few to the sprue; they'll do for the track-gang's toolbox if nothing else!
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
Nearly ready to be "sprued up". I'm considering "hammering in" the trenails a bit more; any thoughts?
GER S1 v9.jpeg

Just in case any Western Thunderers are wondering what all this Eastern Drizzle is about...
DSCN2679a.jpg
...no, not the lathe. A Great Eastern Railway 1905 chair. If it falls off of the table it'll go straight through the floor and the ceiling below, ending up on Love Lane. At least it's difficult to trip over, unlike the stretcher bar just inside the front door...
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
Here's one for PJH at tomorrow's S7 East Anglian Group meeting; GER chairs with holes, seperate keys and fixings :)
GER S1 Chair Holes Sprue v01.jpg
For scenic use only of course (but don't tell Peter that!). These scale keys won't allow the current rail with it's overthick web to fit. So until somebody rolls a 7mm scale rail the working keys will be printed slightly thinner.

Note for tomorrow: will whoever breaks into the gingerbread house please photograph the inside before devouring what has taken the whole family hours to construct today.
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
Can you tell what it is yet?
GER S1 Chair v10 sprue vC.jpg
It's actually only 1/12th of the sprue which is now available here for those WT'ers who requested GER chairs with seperate keys.

There are 96 chairs and keys on the sprue which is described by 811,418 triangles. The Shapeways limit is a million triangles so it would be possible to add a few more chairs (or spare keys!).

Mark the thin end of the keys with a coloured permanent marker; coloured to contrast with your floor which is where the key will end up if you're not very careful.:( The keys are attached to the sprue at their thick end so can be left on the sprue, inserted and then snapped off.

If you cut the sprue to seperate the chairs and keys then each could be painted before assembly, the thick end of the keys being touched up after assembly.

I'll look forward to seeing your finished samples at Sudbury on 27th January.:)
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Excellent Dave:thumbs: , I shall be ordering in the New Year.
I have an off white coloured floor so hopefully I'll be able to see the keys:D

ATB, Col.
 

28ten

Guv'nor
You do a darn sight better in autocad 3d than me :oops: I found the transition from 2d really difficult and i prefer Solidworks for that sort of thing. The problem with solidworks is that you cant really draw fullsize and scale as in Autocad which is a drawback for our sort of stuff.
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
I have an off white coloured floor so hopefully I'll be able to see the keys:D
The acrylic used to print them is virtually transparent. If you don't colour the bits before you drop them you stand very little chance of ever finding them again regardless of the colour of the floor, workbench or baseboard.
A length of double-sided tape stuck to the workbench is useful for keeping parts that have been cut off of the sprue (or off of an etch).
You do a darn sight better in autocad 3d than me :oops: I found the transition from 2d really difficult.
Thank you; but I cheated :rolleyes:. Twenty plus years ago I went to evening classes and dived straight in to a City and Guilds in 3d Autocad leaving out the 2 years of 2d stuff which everybody else was doing! It was all surface modelling (the college couldn't afford the solid modelling bolt-on to v12) but a good grounding nonetheless.
After that it was just a case of decades of practice and I'm still learning. "Undo" must be the most used command in the armoury :).
This may be the next project I go back to:
spoke-boss.jpg 4ft 10spoke wheel for the GER 0-6-0 tanks. It's only taken me 18 months to get a reasonable blend between the spoke and the boss. Now there's the other end of the spoke to blend into the rim, and then the crank boss and balance weights will need spokes blending in as well.
Or should I try something simple like GER brake blocks, a GWR buffer stop or a 1 in 6 single slip?
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
should I try something simple like GER brake blocks, a GWR buffer stop or a 1 in 6 single slip?

David - Given your involvement with West Mersea, I thought it might be some time (if ever), before you got around to a GWR buffer stop, so I'm having a go myself....


Buffer Stops WT Print.JPG

It's a long way off being finished, but I'm pleased with the progress so far. :)

Nice work on your chairs by the way - it's something I need to learn how to draw soon!


Regards

Dan
 
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