P48 for Cotton Belt: Roster addition SW1200

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Carried out a bit more weathering on the body this morning.

These were taken in daylight but only with a tablet (which has limited metering and exposure manipulation) as I haven't purchased a replacement camera yet. When I do so I'll also invest in a photographic light booth/box at the same time.

The black area also received a blue (with a touch of gunmetal) rinse wash. Unfortunately the photograph has not picked this too well.
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A start was also made around the step well
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Once the weathering has been completed (as there's still more to do!) it will be sealed with a coat of matt varnish with a few drops of light brown paint in order to 'bring it together'.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I don't know about anyone else but I wouldn't mind knowing how you have achieved the weathering effects. Tools, techniques and so on. :thumbs:
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dave,
I'm loving it. Don't overdo the final tint as that isn't the impression I get from photos. It doesn't seem 'together' and the battery acid staining has worked brilliantly.
It's interesting to see the heavy rust on the short hood; was your loco originally boiler fitted?
Interesting it's a Ph2, I thought the SSW GP9s were all Ph3?
As Heather has said, a run down of your techniques would be useful.

Steph
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Don't overdo the final tint as that isn't the impression I get from photos. It doesn't seem 'together'.....

I've looked at the photos again and it will just be sealed with a coat of clear Alclad matt varnish. The problem was the grey was too dark to start with and after decals I didn't want to strip and repaint it. I did try a very light grey/white wash to tone it down a bit on the long hood though.

Interesting it's a Ph2, I thought the SSW GP9s were all Ph3?

They were all ph3. This is a SP GRIP rebuild of the SSW ph3 GP9 - the two 48'' radiator fans were replaced by four 36'' fans and the Farr air filter box added. I don't think they had boilers as they were originally ordered as freight locos.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
As for the weathering I used the brushes below and use Vallejo acrylic paints. The paint dish is one I inherited but an old saucer will work just as well. The kitchen towel is used for wiping brushes.

Paint 1.jpg

I have more brushes but used these four for the GP9 weathering.
Paint 2.jpg

Acrylics tend to dry out quickly so you can always create a wet palette by placing the paint on greaseproof paper on top of a damp kitchen cloth in a Tupperware container to keep the paint moist. My wet palette is one I purchased a few years ago.
Paint 3.jpg

My technique is a mixture of solid painting, washes (using water or Vallejo airbrush thinner), dry brushing and stippling/dabbing.

For the larger rusted areas I used the light rust and the large Daler-Rowney brush. I put some paint onto the brush and wiped this on the kitchen towel as if I were going to dry brush.
Paint 6.jpg

Instead of dry brushing I dabbed this onto the model which created the rust patch and created a feathered edge. Once dry (well, it dries almost immediately) I went over the centre of the rust patch to intensify the colour. In order to create some variation I randomly added a spot of German camouflage brown, dark rust and light rust into the mix. On SSW/SP diesels, as they were not cleaned in the period I'm modelling the rust around the cab and short hood is probably the primer after the grey has worn off. The paint was also applied over the numbers and I cleaned these afterwards with a cocktail stick.

Part of the battery cover here was painted with dark rust using one of the smaller brushes. I then loaded dark rust onto the Daler-Rowner brush, wiped it dry and then dabbed over the dark rust.
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The area of the battery acid stain was painted black and then I created the colour gradient with washes. After this was dry I applied a thin dark blue wash.

On the driver's side the battery box cover was just dabbed with dark rust. Unfortunately the nature of the lighting I have and the tablet camera don't appear toshow this too well.
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I tried to demonstrate this on a boxcar but the washes did not work too well. The boxcar was sprayed with Testors dullcoat but this did not take the paint too well (also looks a bit orange peeley in the photo). The GP9, on the other hand, was sprayed with Alclad matt varnish after the decals were applied and this seems to be a better surface on which to weather.

Using the smaller brushes the rust patches are a dot of German camo brown or dark rust. I then use light rust to add the streaks. These haven't worked here. The boxcar will eventually be stripped when I rebuild it to either a SOO Line or ATSF version.
Paint 7.jpg

This was a HO SOO Line insulated boxcar I converted and weathered many years ago which shows the rust streaks.
SOO reefer.jpg
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Two phrases come to mind...

1 - "Like" button utterly inadequate :thumbs: :drool:

2 - "I give up" :oops: :( :bowdown:

Other than that - funny how 'naked' the trucks look without all the brakegear. ;)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Wot Jordan said. Thank you for sharing your weathering tools and techniques. I now need to find some time to try them out for myself!
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
My brush collection really looks like this... and not a Type 4 among them. There are however, a few which I use constantly.

I tend to buy the £2 to £4 sets of four or ten from The Works discount art chain as it's cheaper than buying a single brush. And at that price they're consumable.

Brushes.jpg
 

Alan

Western Thunderer
I hope when I start on my new Hymeck and rather clean Warship and Western sometime this week I can approach your standard of weathering Dave.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
You will Alan. If you haven't started I would practice on some wagons to get the feel of the materials and what works for you. I look forward to seeing them when finished.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Well it happens to all of us at some point. I was busy weathering the front and rear pilots and did a double take.....

It turns out I had missed a detail with this particular locomotive, Doh! on both pilots naturally and should have spotted this earlier in the build :headbang::rant:.

Both top corners should have been cut away to allow the switchman (shunter) to operate the uncoupler lift bar from the pilot without alighting from the loco.

The corners to be removed are highlighted.
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Et voila, the corners have been removed from both pilots and weathered. Rear.
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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
With grateful thanks to Mickoo :thumbs: I now have a set of slack adjusters for the GP9 trucks.

I made up one set to see how they have turned out and temporarily fitted them to one sideframe - brilliant as far as I'm concerned and the photographs are below:

The brake block assemblies have been bolted to the slack adjusters using Alan Gibson 4mm crankpins. Once I have made all eight of them I'll grind the crankpin washers flush with the slack adjusters.

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Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Just thinking, Richard is supporting the case that WTers go the extra mile... this is a candidate for that measuring stick. Split pin, Sir? :thumbs:
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
With grateful thanks to Mickoo :thumbs: I now have a set of slack adjusters for the GP9 trucks.

I made up one set to see how they have turned out and temporarily fitted them to one sideframe - brilliant as far as I'm concerned and the photographs are below:

The brake block assemblies have been bolted to the slack adjusters using Alan Gibson 4mm crankpins. Once I have made all eight of them I'll grind the crankpin washers flush with the slack adjusters.

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Looks good, but now you have done the outer ones you really need to add the inner ones as well or it just won't look right. It is only 8 more pieces. Shouldn't be a problem with P48 wheels to space them accurately from each face of the wheels.
 
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