7mm Ressaldar's Workshop - a paintshop diversion

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Did you say or have i read somewhere that Easybuild might be doing one soon ?Rob

Hi Rob,

I contacted Shawn and have now received a reply stating that he will be on the case after Telford. I have replied saying that there is a large interest for it on here.........keep at him at/after Telford.

cheers

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
some further progress on DS1, the ends are now done, save the drop down boards which you are advised to fix after painting.

IMG_3531.JPG

inside of end D, outside of end C - this end has the tell tale

IMG_3532.JPG

close up of end C - showing where the searchlight bezel was!!

IMG_3533.JPG

close up of end D - showing the searchlight bezel in place - but soon to come off. There is virtually nothing of the bezel when it is in the fret, removing it was one thing and trying to solder it in position, was something entirely different!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So rather than have it look absolutely dreadful, I have decided to leave them off. Would it not have been possible to have etched it as part of the main panel, or can you only have one 'depth' of etch?

So the body shell with the interior partitions in place should be all together by the close of play today and then it's down to real fiction as to what to put inside! and then start thinking about the roof.

cheers

Mike
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Mike

Re the bezel. How about thinning down a washer, splitting it and changing the diameter if necessary....or a slice of tube?

Cheers

Richard
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,

thanks for the comment - the slice of tube could well be the answer, I'll see what diameters I have in stock.

The searchlights themselves are a fabrication of bits and pieces, I would have thought that it would have been an easy task to have made them as a casting, even in whitmetal. The 'tell tale' junction box and the little box on the lower right hand side have to be fabricated! again why no casting?

cheers

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I took Richard's advice and sliced off two pieces of tube for the bezels and they went on no bother. I then tackled the assembly of the sides to the ends and then put in the partitions - everything lining up with the top of the sides to allow for the floor pan. This then just leaves the roof as the main item to finish and I was glad that I had made the roof up before I started building the kit as by now, I was getting quite niggled with things in general.

During the laminating of the roof (and using the template provided) as per instructions, I checked the roof plan included with the kit and the dimensions were hopelessly out - by +170% so I contacted Ivan Smith who sent me a scale drawing to work from. The prototype being Victorian in origin has an elaborate type of 'gutter', which I had calculated to be 2mm thick for 7mm and I cut out a piece of plasticard to the dimensions on the scale drawing and that gave the correct overhang as well. I then sanded down the laminated roof with fine wet & dry and then bonded onto the sheet that I had just cut out. All that meant was that there were two pieces of etch which form up into a bracket arrangement to fix the body and roof together - unfortunately, there is now indication on any of the drawings to show where this bracket goes - and you guessed it, the instructions say..........fix where shown.

Anyway, I have fixed the body to the chassis and placed the roof on - just for the progress photos, I will twiddle my thumbs while I await a reply to my latest email to Ivan Smith!

IMG_3534.JPGIMG_3535.JPGIMG_3541.JPG

More to come in the fullness of time.

cheers

Mike
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The 'tell tale' junction box and the little box on the lower right hand side have to be fabricated! again why no casting?
I think that as regular / rectangular objects are easy to draw as a number of laminates.. or develop a 2D fold-up of a 3D shape... then having the item on the etch is a non-recurring cost to draw with a very low recurring cost as an item within the etched sheet.

Making a pattern is likely to be a higher non-recurring cost than that for drawing an item... and the casting cost is going to be much greater than the cost for the real estate on the sheet metal.

Graham
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Rob's 1 & 2,

many thanks for the comments. The roof problem is now partially resolved in as much as Ivan replied to my email - pointing out that the cross members fit into slots in the upper strengthening strips, they are now fitted. The next problem is that I have marked through the holes in the cross members to the underside of the roof and then measured off the centre of the holes to the roof edge and applied that measurement to the top of the roof and then measured the thickness of the roof at that point - 6mm, the 8BA bolts provided have 6mm of thread and you are suggested to drill and tap the roof (plasticard) to suit. I have ordered some shorter bolts from Items and will let you know what transpires. Needless to say that the cross members near the ends of the coach are alighned over the bracket that has the holding down nuts fitted for the chassis/body connection:headbang::rant:

It's our Open Day at the Club today, so no photos etc until late tomorrow/Monday.

cheers

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
As stated on Simon C's thread I have made a start on a WEP Fruit D - rivets punched on one end, using my new GW rivetter, very pleased with the results, but having read the Guv's comments regarding strapping, I will wait with bated breath for his responses before going too far down the line.

I also bought the NQLTRT version at Telford, I am aware of the buffer centres problem and the general underframe :shit: is there anything else that I should be prepared to 'upgrade'?

cheers

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
with regard to the inspection saloon, that has taken a very big step to the back of the shelf as a result of the paint lifting off whilst applying and adjusting the lining:headbang:there is also an issue with the thinness of the brass used - it has a tendancy to ripple at the bottom of the body and needs some thickening strips added similar to those provided in the kit for the top of the body - more of this to follow - sometime.

cheers

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
a prolem arose earlier this week in that the Heljan 33 that I recently sold was returned to me as it was not running as it should have been (it ran fine when it was with me, as the video shows) - when I checked it out, the problem was the Heljan gearsets - what else!

I contacted Howes of Oxford who put a replacement set in the post which arrived the following day, fitted them and ran the chassis (DCC powered) no problem. However, when I refitted the body, and ran it up, there was a grinding noise coming from the repaired bogie area, I removed the body and the marker pen markings that I had put on the flywheel of the offending bogie had almost been rubbed off so checking at the underside of the body I saw that there were abrasion mark to the underside of the fan motor housing - somehow, the body seems to have become lower, causing the 'coming together' does anybody have any thoughts? I am thinking that a 6BA washer glued to the top of the casting on the chassis might do the trick, we'll see.

regards

Mike
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
a prolem arose earlier this week in that the Heljan 33 that I recently sold was returned to me as it was not running as it should have been (it ran fine when it was with me, as the video shows) - when I checked it out, the problem was the Heljan gearsets - what else!

I contacted Howes of Oxford who put a replacement set in the post which arrived the following day, fitted them and ran the chassis (DCC powered) no problem. However, when I refitted the body, and ran it up, there was a grinding noise coming from the repaired bogie area, I removed the body and the marker pen markings that I had put on the flywheel of the offending bogie had almost been rubbed off so checking at the underside of the body I saw that there were abrasion mark to the underside of the fan motor housing - somehow, the body seems to have become lower, causing the 'coming together' does anybody have any thoughts? I am thinking that a 6BA washer glued to the top of the casting on the chassis might do the trick, we'll see.

regards

Mike

Hi Mike,

I haven't had that problem (yet) with my 33s, and I really hope I don't. I can't see why the body would have dropped a few mm. Is the fan housing fully screwed back against the body, and is the replacement gear the same size as the one it replaced?

Cheers

Tom
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Tom,

many thanks for your reply.

The fan housing has not been touched, I had also checked that the screws were fully 'home'. As for the gears, they are totally within the motor/gearbox unit and the baseplate is fitting as before - fully flush.

The only things that come to mind are:

1. the flywheel is not pushed down fully on its shaft, or

2. there is a sleeve/liner that fits into the 'gimble' socket which has dropped out on the workbench and has escaped like so many other important bits have a habit of doing from time to time.

I shall have a word with Mike at Howes on Monday to see if he is aware of anything and report back.

cheers

Mike
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,

Very annoying trying to find the issue when you're not really sure what you're looking for. If you want I can take the body off my 33 and take some pics for you if you want a comparison?

Cheers

Tom
 

28ten

Guv'nor
As stated on Simon C's thread I have made a start on a WEP Fruit D - rivets punched on one end, using my new GW rivetter, very pleased with the results, but having read the Guv's comments regarding strapping, I will wait with bated breath for his responses before going too far down the line.

I also bought the NQLTRT version at Telford, I am aware of the buffer centres problem and the general underframe :shit: is there anything else that I should be prepared to 'upgrade'?

cheers

Mike
Just seeing this Mike, you will have to do the buffer centers, you may need to do the light switch on the end. I used a WEP rocking unit from the spares box, and you will need to strengthen the steps as they last about 2 seconds in use. If you have both use the JLTRT body on the WEP underframe :))
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,

Very annoying trying to find the issue when you're not really sure what you're looking for. If you want I can take the body off my 33 and take some pics for you if you want a comparison?

Cheers

Tom

Hi Tom,

many thanks for your offer, but hold fire for the time being please, as I shall be investigating further today and speaking to Howes tomorrow.

kind regards

Mike
 
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