Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Richard,
First photo...organised chaos ?
First photo...organised chaos ?
7mm Richards P48 US Thread
- Thread starter richard carr
- Start date
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Ian
Yes, something like that.
Richard
Yes, something like that.
Richard
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Since I got back from Japan, I have managed to get a few things done.
The first was putting some decals onto a Trinity 5161 hopper. These are by MIcro Scale and are for a 5161 hopper. They come on a sheet for 5 different types of NS hopper but you only get 1 set for each, so $12.95 a pop.
This has had some initial weathering but there is still quite a bit more to do.
The first was putting some decals onto a Trinity 5161 hopper. These are by MIcro Scale and are for a 5161 hopper. They come on a sheet for 5 different types of NS hopper but you only get 1 set for each, so $12.95 a pop.
This has had some initial weathering but there is still quite a bit more to do.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
The other thing I was working on at the weekend was progressing the Overland Dash 8 39B.
The big hold up had been how to fit tiny LEDS into the limited space at the rear for the rear headlights.
I had designed this for 3D printing but it still needed a fair amount fettling to get it to fit, thankfully I only need one.
This could then be super glued in place. Everything could then be wired into the decoder, an ESU Loksound V5L. I have managed to add front and rear headlights and number board lights..
I then set about adding the decals, I find that adding some masking tape helps get everything straight.
Now thee are done I can put the loco back together again.
The big hold up had been how to fit tiny LEDS into the limited space at the rear for the rear headlights.
I had designed this for 3D printing but it still needed a fair amount fettling to get it to fit, thankfully I only need one.
This could then be super glued in place. Everything could then be wired into the decoder, an ESU Loksound V5L. I have managed to add front and rear headlights and number board lights..
I then set about adding the decals, I find that adding some masking tape helps get everything straight.
Now thee are done I can put the loco back together again.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I was going to start adding the detail decals to the Dash 8 but, these have red letting on a white background and the only ones I have are white lettering on a red background. Does anyone know of source of the red lettering on white background decals ?
Thanks
Thanks
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I have been putting the Dash 8 back together
The overland is on the right an Atlas version is on the left, to say the least there are a few subtle (and not so subtle) differences.
First up the Atlas model seems to have forgotten about the cab roof air conditioning units !
I should be able to 3D print those.
The overland doesn't have any ditch lights, so dating it to prior to 1995, it doesn't have the red multiple working cable either.
Looking down from above, the head light housings are different shapes.
The overland has a cast brass beacon light, I will paint the light part orange.
On the nose the atlas has the 2 sand box fillers but not whatever the 3rd one is on the overland, which is clearly there in photos.
Behind the cab the overland details the fans, Atlas seems to have forgotten about those too.
The noses are a subtly different shape too, I'm not sure which one is right ?
The paint job on the Atlas is better than mine, and it's got all the decals, I hope I can find some for mine. I know I need to paint the handrails white, thats a job for tomorrow. I also need to add all the pilot pipe work, paint the wind screen wipers silver and finish off the number boards.
The overland is on the right an Atlas version is on the left, to say the least there are a few subtle (and not so subtle) differences.
First up the Atlas model seems to have forgotten about the cab roof air conditioning units !
I should be able to 3D print those.
The overland doesn't have any ditch lights, so dating it to prior to 1995, it doesn't have the red multiple working cable either.
Looking down from above, the head light housings are different shapes.
The overland has a cast brass beacon light, I will paint the light part orange.
On the nose the atlas has the 2 sand box fillers but not whatever the 3rd one is on the overland, which is clearly there in photos.
Behind the cab the overland details the fans, Atlas seems to have forgotten about those too.
The noses are a subtly different shape too, I'm not sure which one is right ?
The paint job on the Atlas is better than mine, and it's got all the decals, I hope I can find some for mine. I know I need to paint the handrails white, thats a job for tomorrow. I also need to add all the pilot pipe work, paint the wind screen wipers silver and finish off the number boards.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Microscale offer three diesel data sheets. One is for red and yellow lettering. For red lettering you would have to paint your own white patches or use white decal sheet.
Microscale Decals: O Scale - Diesel Data - Red & Yellow
Microscale Decals: O Scale - Diesel Data
Microscale Decals: O Scale - Diesel Data - Black
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Is there likely to be a spare?
It appears you can obtain cab roof mount 'Vapor' type air conditioning units in O scale but not the cab roof mount 'Prime' type as seen on the SP/SSW Dash 8-40B.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Those are not three sand fillers on the OMI, the larger one is a mushroom vent for the 
potty 
The vent is only applicable to SP units, SSW units did not come with the vent or were (as far as I can see) ever retro fitted with the vent.
The red MU cable is a stowable item (it has a plug each end as opposed to say BR which is permanently fixed at one end and has a plug at the free end), for many years they were taken off and stowed in a cabinet, probably in the nose somewhere, quite common to see engines without them.
Having said that, engines without the MU cable have two identical sockets indicating the cable is removable; however, it looks like SP (probably SP as I'm not seeing that fitting on other Railroads as yet) or GE modified the LH receptacle, it's been made larger with a side entry for a permanent tether fixing, in this case (below) on the inside but the majority seem to be on the outside, either SP or SSW.
Outside tether.
potty The vent is only applicable to SP units, SSW units did not come with the vent or were (as far as I can see) ever retro fitted with the vent.
The red MU cable is a stowable item (it has a plug each end as opposed to say BR which is permanently fixed at one end and has a plug at the free end), for many years they were taken off and stowed in a cabinet, probably in the nose somewhere, quite common to see engines without them.
Having said that, engines without the MU cable have two identical sockets indicating the cable is removable; however, it looks like SP (probably SP as I'm not seeing that fitting on other Railroads as yet) or GE modified the LH receptacle, it's been made larger with a side entry for a permanent tether fixing, in this case (below) on the inside but the majority seem to be on the outside, either SP or SSW.
Outside tether.
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Big Train James
Western Thunderer
The third item on the short hood is almost certainly a vent for the toilet.
There should be sufficient photos with tape measure included in the UP b40-8 photos previously sent, for you to work up an A/C unit. Or you could use the PSC kit, although I'm not sure if it's exactly the right type. I have one of those too if you are interested.
The Atlas nose seems truer to form to me. The X panels are correct, and what little photo info I have here suggests the pointy version of the front is more accurate as well. Although I don't have a definitive shot on hand.
Atlas didn't forget the fans. I'm sure they made a decision based on manufacturing a mass produced injection molded model at a price point likely 1/4 (or less) that of the brass model (at then current prices).
There should be sufficient photos with tape measure included in the UP b40-8 photos previously sent, for you to work up an A/C unit. Or you could use the PSC kit, although I'm not sure if it's exactly the right type. I have one of those too if you are interested.
The Atlas nose seems truer to form to me. The X panels are correct, and what little photo info I have here suggests the pointy version of the front is more accurate as well. Although I don't have a definitive shot on hand.
Atlas didn't forget the fans. I'm sure they made a decision based on manufacturing a mass produced injection molded model at a price point likely 1/4 (or less) that of the brass model (at then current prices).
Big Train James
Western Thunderer
Everybody answering at once. We seem to be in agreement.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I think the OMI nose has the edge and is more accurate in shape, but it really needs to have all the edges rounded off, it's much too angular.
The Atlas model is much better in that respect and it might have the edge on the side taper as well, it'll be a smidge out but the Atlas one seems to capture the taper better than the OMI; but the front faces are a better angle on the OMI.
The Atlas model is much better in that respect and it might have the edge on the side taper as well, it'll be a smidge out but the Atlas one seems to capture the taper better than the OMI; but the front faces are a better angle on the OMI.
simond
Western Thunderer
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
Yes, I think we're all aware...
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Thanks for all the replies everyone, all useful information, and yes Dave there will be a few spares when I do get round to printing the air con units.
The next model to progress is the Overland GP60, again it was brass model that had a small amount of damage that is easy to fix.
On the whole it looks pretty good, but those front steps and pilot, they are not square, sadly it isn't jus the camera distortion, they have been built like that. Thats going to take a bit more fixing
A nice air con unit.
Lots of pipe work and I do plan to narrow the trucks on this one, even though it will be quite a bit of work.
The steps aren't quite as off square on this side.
The next model to progress is the Overland GP60, again it was brass model that had a small amount of damage that is easy to fix.
On the whole it looks pretty good, but those front steps and pilot, they are not square, sadly it isn't jus the camera distortion, they have been built like that. Thats going to take a bit more fixing
A nice air con unit.
Lots of pipe work and I do plan to narrow the trucks on this one, even though it will be quite a bit of work.
The steps aren't quite as off square on this side.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
So there is a bit more work to do than originally planned. I don't know how they put these together but my 80watt soldering iron was useless. I had to go and find my blow torch and thankfully I found the gas canister as well.
So after a blast with the blow torch the front fell apart. A bit of cleaning up was necessary as these model builders certainly are not from the Mickoo school of soldering !
Then I had to put it all back together, oh dear, that was easier said than done.
As I said above the soldering iron was useless, holding anything was difficult as everything was getting really hot the moment you put the blow torch on it.
Eventually I found that the soldering iron would get enough solder on to a piece to hold in position, then you could blast the other end of it with the blow torch and get a property joint.
So after a blast with the blow torch the front fell apart. A bit of cleaning up was necessary as these model builders certainly are not from the Mickoo school of soldering !
Then I had to put it all back together, oh dear, that was easier said than done.
As I said above the soldering iron was useless, holding anything was difficult as everything was getting really hot the moment you put the blow torch on it.
Eventually I found that the soldering iron would get enough solder on to a piece to hold in position, then you could blast the other end of it with the blow torch and get a property joint.
Big Train James
Western Thunderer
Shot in the dark here, many unpainted brass models like this are finished with something like clear lacquer from the factory, to prevent tarnishing. I've no idea why that would affect heat application, but might it affect solder "adhesion" or flow when reassembling?
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Jim
Yes this model is covered in lacquer, the parts I put back together were all cleaned up with files and any lacquer would have been removed during that process.
The problem is simply one of applying enough heat to a very large lump of brass, something that my soldering iron was never going to manage, so thats why it was out with the blow torch, it was very effective.
Richard
Yes this model is covered in lacquer, the parts I put back together were all cleaned up with files and any lacquer would have been removed during that process.
The problem is simply one of applying enough heat to a very large lump of brass, something that my soldering iron was never going to manage, so thats why it was out with the blow torch, it was very effective.
Richard
JasonD
Western Thunderer
2024 reminder: I've still got lots of P48 33" and 36" wheelsets from Mike Calvert's estate and (literally) one or two track P48 gauges. If anyone's interested ... I could be persuaded to do a chart with brand/part no/blah/blah, but hurry, Summer's nearly here and I might be Ow5 track-laying and putting the P...er...48 stuff away till the Winchester Meet Saturday 26 October 2024. Actually no rush, my Post Office closed at the beginning of the year so they'll probably be ballast in my suitcase, March 2025.
Richard, I was assembling a Central Loco Works brass GP38-2 kit many years ago before Dave Parkins introduced Mike and me to thin etched brass. Anyway working on the second end-sill assembly with the blow-torch there was a clunk ... the first had fallen off ... despite the wet tissues and varied solders. Mike brought back a couple of resistance soldering outfits from a US business trip, before they'd appeared over here. Happy days ... must get the footboard back on that PSC SW1.
Jim, my (45-year?) old NJCB RS-3 had a nice thick coat of factory lacquer so into a tray of Nitromors it went, revealing where the solder joints and odd bits of different colour (higher copper content/more bendy?) brass were. Those varnish blobs in the doors/seams/grilles sure enough introduced me to cocktail sticks. Maybe better primers and paints these days would let me ignore the collector's lacquer. And which primer/undercoat for the UP yellow paint jobs - red or grey?
Jason
Richard, I was assembling a Central Loco Works brass GP38-2 kit many years ago before Dave Parkins introduced Mike and me to thin etched brass. Anyway working on the second end-sill assembly with the blow-torch there was a clunk ... the first had fallen off ... despite the wet tissues and varied solders. Mike brought back a couple of resistance soldering outfits from a US business trip, before they'd appeared over here. Happy days ... must get the footboard back on that PSC SW1.
Jim, my (45-year?) old NJCB RS-3 had a nice thick coat of factory lacquer so into a tray of Nitromors it went, revealing where the solder joints and odd bits of different colour (higher copper content/more bendy?) brass were. Those varnish blobs in the doors/seams/grilles sure enough introduced me to cocktail sticks. Maybe better primers and paints these days would let me ignore the collector's lacquer. And which primer/undercoat for the UP yellow paint jobs - red or grey?
Jason
