7mm Richards P48 US Thread

Stephen

Western Thunderer
Because their scoring only went up to seven - so I'm told. :rolleyes: ;)

Anyway scoring anything for Soo Line would invoke memories of Spinal Tap....
"yeah, but these go to 11".... :) :p
I was at a guitar show many years ago, and had a chap try and sell me a vinyl overlay for my Marshall Amplifier with all dial markers going to 11. I said I wasn't interested, but the conversation played out within him claiming my amp (1987x 50w Super Lead Plexi, for anyone interested), would then be 'one' louder seeing as the volume went to 11....

He was at it all day, exactly the same rhetoric in homage to Spinal Tap - never saw him make a sale.

Anyway back to railways - @mickoo SP, UP DRG - even in the right order of greatness!

Cheers,

Stephen
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Merry Chirstmas everyone

A bit more modelling has been done

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The FMC boxcar now has couplings and a coat of primer, I'm just waiting for some blue paint to arrive. The Golden West Services decals have arrived in Chicago.

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The gondola is now finished except for some coupling boxes, I'll need to draw some up and get them printed. Hopefully I'll be painting it later today if I can escape for a few minutes !

Richard
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
I just need to get some SOO decals now.
K4 don't have anything suitable.

Best bet might be CMR, possibly adapting one of their HO Scale sheets for the white 'SOO LINE' in particular.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Although it has been pretty cold in the shed I have managed to do a bit more.
One of the main sidings has 2 spurs coming off it, these are now in and powered up.

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And the second one

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I only lasted about an hour in each of the working sessions.
This one is intended to be a freight facility of some kind, whereas the first one above will be for loco storage.
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
Although it has been pretty cold in the shed I have managed to do a bit more.

I only lasted about an hour in each of the working sessions.

Hi Richard,

I'm guessing your shed might be lined with metal panels sandwiching foam insulation (as used for coolstores) ?

My own hobbyspace <1000sqm is very heavily insulated with expanded foam plus fibreglass batts - which keeps excessive heat out nicely during hot summers (not that we are getting a decent summer in NZ this year). But come winter, the frosts gradually take the temperature down, and then all that insulation is very effective at keeping the place as cold as a fridge. It takes a lot of heating $$$/£££ to bring the temperature up, so mid winter to early spring, modelling output slackens off a bit. Some localised heating within works reasonably well.

-Brian McK.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Hi Stephen

Yes that's an atlas GP60, it's one of their better models and of course the headlights are correct for SP as by the time they bought these the big light packages were in the bin. All their SP GP35s are wrong as they should have the big light packages and Atlas didn't do them. MTH did do them on their models so I'm always on the look out for one of their spare bodies just for the nose.

Richard
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Hi Brian

Yes the shed is made of metal panels sandwiching foam insulation. It's not particulalrly effective at anything, it gets too warm in summer and freezes in winter. So plans are being formulated for a new larger shed complete with massive insulation, air condition and heating.

Richard
If your hobby room is going to form a large part of your life then the large investment up front is worth it in the long run.

Mine is vastly smaller but wood construction and double skinned with insulation; a small 2Kw heater will warm it to comfortable levels in 30 mins or so even with it hovering around 0°c outside; getting up to spraying temperature takes a little longer mind.

The critical part I found was insulating the floor, the big concrete slab is a massive heat soak so I jacked the floor up 150 mm and added insulation underneath; same for the roof space.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
If your hobby room is going to form a large part of your life then the large investment up front is worth it in the long run.

Mine is vastly smaller but wood construction and double skinned with insulation; a small 2Kw heater will warm it to comfortable levels in 30 mins or so even with it hovering around 0°c outside; getting up to spraying temperature takes a little longer mind.

The critical part I found was insulating the floor, the big concrete slab is a massive heat soak so I jacked the floor up 150 mm and added insulation underneath; same for the roof space.
You jacked the concrete slab up 150mm ????? Did it sit down flat again on top of the foam ??.
So many questions i have .
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
You jacked the concrete slab up 150mm ????? Did it sit down flat again on top of the foam ??.
So many questions i have .
No I jacked the floor up, the slab is not the actual floor it’s the foundation.

The slab is 9” thick with a steel reinforcing mesh and looking at the invoice used just under three tons of concrete so I think it’d flatten most things lol.

The walls are secured to the slab with a waterproof membrane between, then the internal area filled with 150 mm of insulation and then the wooden floor on top.

The floor is not attached to the walls and has a small gap around the edges for breathing.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
No I jacked the floor up, the slab is not the actual floor it’s the foundation.

The slab is 9” thick with a steel reinforcing mesh and looking at the invoice used just under three tons of concrete so I think it’d flatten most things lol.

The walls are secured to the slab with a waterproof membrane between, then the internal area filled with 150 mm of insulation and then the wooden floor on top.

The floor is not attached to the walls and has a small gap around the edges for breathing.
A 9" thick slab seems a bit excessive for a shed unless you have a traction engine or a steam roller parked in there .
I was pulling your leg about jacking the slab up :)
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I have been doing a bit more work on the Overland GP60, it's all converted to P48 I just need to wire the decoder in, which is more time consuming than you might imagine.

The plan is to have working headlights for each direction and working front ditch lights. so there is quite a bit of wiring to fit in.

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These are the pickups from both trucks.

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These are the wires for the ditch light LEDs, these tiny LEDs sit in the light and the wires pass down through the pilot back up under the nose, under the cab to where you see them now.

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These are the rear head lights I will use a small JST connector to attach them to the decoder board

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The same for the front headlight, the tape is to remind me that is the positive common.

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The decoder board in place

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This was the original idea for the speaker to sit on top of this, but this doesn't fit so a new one that is thin at each end and can be glued to the cover already in place will be printed in due course.
 

timbowales

Western Thunderer
I have been doing a bit more work on the Overland GP60, it's all converted to P48 I just need to wire the decoder in, which is more time consuming than you might imagine.

The plan is to have working headlights for each direction and working front ditch lights. so there is quite a bit of wiring to fit in.

View attachment 232078

These are the pickups from both trucks.

View attachment 232079

These are the wires for the ditch light LEDs, these tiny LEDs sit in the light and the wires pass down through the pilot back up under the nose, under the cab to where you see them now.

View attachment 232080

These are the rear head lights I will use a small JST connector to attach them to the decoder board

View attachment 232081

The same for the front headlight, the tape is to remind me that is the positive common.

View attachment 232082

The decoder board in place

View attachment 232083

This was the original idea for the speaker to sit on top of this, but this doesn't fit so a new one that is thin at each end and can be glued to the cover already in place will be printed in due course.
What’s that phrase. DCC is just two wires
 
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