Scale7 JB Workbench.

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
I do like the idea of having a 'BRITISH RAILWAYS' liveried J68, but these are all for around '56 to '58, and I'm pretty sure that even Stratford would have seen to having the correct emblems by then..

JB.

Don't be so sure about that, as some locos that were built around 1950 were withdrawn in 1968 with the first B.R. crest.

OzzyO.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Ozzy,

Surely within 8-10 years, emblems would have been changed. I could understand if these were painted on, but being transfers, I'd be very surprised.

Of course I'd be extremely happy to be proven wrong.

JB.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Hi Ozzy,

Surely within 8-10 years, emblems would have been changed. I could understand if these were painted on, but being transfers, I'd be very surprised.

Of course I'd be extremely happy to be proven wrong.

Reasonably common (though in something of a minority as time went on) especially on freight locos. USA tank 30069 is one that comes to mind, but to pick a few examples from a Flickr gallery chosen more or less at random, all dated 1964:

N class 31409 Eastleigh 25 Jan 1964

30089 Eastleigh Shed 25 Jan 1964

44468 Rose Grove 22 Sept 1964

1963:

9604 Swindon Dec 22nd 1963

Didn't steam finish on the GE a bit earlier?

Adam
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Adam, thanks for those, problem is I'm going straight from 1946 numbering to 1956 BR numbering, bypassing the 1948-49 'BRITISH RAILWAYS' period, which I'm sure wouldn't have been missed on such an important time of nationalised railways.

JB.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Nice work pal:thumbs: I'm not sure how I missed the F5 being BR'd but I did, very nice indeed. Are they your bogies under the push pull set? Do you have any idea how far around the Country these got? I only ask as I have a picture of a G5 near Howden with a similar looking set of coaches and wondered if they could be the same diagram?

Mick
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick, hope you're all good!

Not my bogies. They are the bogies from the kit, but with my un-patented springing system between the frames and the wheels.

Unfortunately Sherlock was on last night which prevented any of the castings being attached. A few of them are far too small to solder on, so unfortunately I'm going to have to use superglue.

Not too sure how many sets there were of this diagram and how far they got from London. There are some notes in the instructions(?), I'll have a look for you tonight mate.. Alternatively, a call to Danny Pinnock would answer all I should think..

JB.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi PB..

Yes, you can buy them separately, be careful though, I believe that there are now two different types available. They old style and the new. I use the old style, partly because I have a couple of hundred in the drawer..

Got most of the castings on the bogies today, though fixing the leaf springs is going to take a bit of work as they are separate to the mounting bracket.

image.jpg image.jpeg

JB.
 

2-Bil

Western Thunderer
JB Ive returned to the miasma wafting off the M11 Link Road after a month away and think i mentioned there was no way to pursue our conversation as I've No internet connection(a conscious decision) in Dorset.I thought id sent some words to the "Conversation"page a few days ago but as I'm c***p round keypads that little assembly could be ANYWHERE!! Viewing 57 pages of skill and commitment has been a pleasure (Dibateg was spot on) How you accommodate" pattering "feet, increasingly insistent tugs on a sleeve AND the necessary Tunnel of Concentration...well, all i can say is hats off!Unfortunatly my" tunnel''became structurally unsound a quarter century ago .A tentative inspection of the debris( prodded by what i see on this site) is underway. Lastly, I've a card backed book THE GREAT EASTERN LINE by RC Riley,its from the Colour of Steam Series the images are very crisp and ,topically,has photos (1956) of Saffron Walden Branch trains.IF its not in your library i could wing it to W******D if ,however,it is then it'll stay where it is, a dim beacon, squashed twixt Southern tomes...... If you're going to Bristol ill be the" long man loping " providing the trains run!Maybe Tony (Dibateg)could point you out? Apology for the small highjack Best Wishes/Respect to you and yours from BW aka 2-Bil
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
4 1/2 months since this thread was updated as I've been concentrating on the Saffron Walden Push Pull set for love lane.

image.jpeg

On another note, the last of the true shelf queens, about to go into primer. It's more than likely 10 years old now, and I think the 2nd etched kit I had built. In primer as we speak..

image.jpeg

JB.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi John,

I've started using the Cillit Bang limescale remover which appears to be very good at removing the initial layer of crud. It also seems to be very effective at removing the green power flow flux residue. It certainly has a kick to it as the skin really seems to tickle if you get it on you!

image.png

After the spray, I'll then spend a long time with a brush and bar keepers friend, making it into a nice thick paste and continually grinding away into the brass. One tip is that you can tell how much more cleaning the brass needs by the colour of what comes off the brush every now and then when you rinse.

JB.
 

FiftyFourA

Western Thunderer
JB,

I keep hearing about "bar keepers friend" but what is it and who sells it? If that stuff gets models as clean as yours for painting then it must be some use.

Peter
 

FiftyFourA

Western Thunderer
Cheers mate, Morrisons is just don the road (next to the beach) so as its a lovely sunny day I think I just may have to have a walk down there.

Peter
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
The only down side to Cillit Bang is that it turns solder black or dark grey depending on how long you leave it to soak and turns brass orange, not good for photography of bare metal models. If you're quick, say 20 seconds or so before washing off then it minimises the effect on the solder and brass, but overall it is the best stuff for getting rid of flux residue.

I use Bicarbonate Soda solution first (probaly much like Bar Keepers Friend I suspect), then washing up liquid and finally a quick spray and rinse with Cillit Bang.

Nice model :thumbs:
 
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