adrian
Flying Squad
That's nothing a mere 3 1/2yrs is one of the more recent purchases. I've still got a part built Ivatt2 I started in 1985!
That's nothing a mere 3 1/2yrs is one of the more recent purchases. I've still got a part built Ivatt2 I started in 1985!
adrian
Flying Squad
As mentioned they do appear on ebay from time to time
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-mm-Scal...-Kit-Parts-0-Gauge/121266908658#ht_348wt_1193
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian,
I saw this earlier today but it already has quite a bit of interest, which may mean it goes for silly money. I'm watching it though and may bid if it's not gone too daft. I don't usually like started stuff but in true Dikitriki style may take this on as so far the contruction doesn't look too bad ? From your kit does this one look like it's mostly all there?
ATB Mick
I saw this earlier today but it already has quite a bit of interest, which may mean it goes for silly money. I'm watching it though and may bid if it's not gone too daft. I don't usually like started stuff but in true Dikitriki style may take this on as so far the contruction doesn't look too bad ? From your kit does this one look like it's mostly all there?
ATB Mick
adrian
Flying Squad
Strewth! I suppose I shouldn't be surprised what some people will pay on ebay at times. Fortunately I think I paid just less than a 1/3 of that price for mine.It went for silly money in the end, especially a started kit
adrian
Flying Squad
Whilst my drawings were at PPD for etching I turned back to the Siphon. Fitting the whitemetal castings to the bogies wasn't that difficult once I'd sliced 1/32" off either side of the bolster with a junior hacksaw. I know I said I'd paint them prior to fitting the axle boxes and the compensation beams but I needed to check that everything fitted first. One difficulty was getting the springs to sit properly in the brass castings on the frame and the compensation beam. These had to be attacked with a small dental burr to clean up the flash in the seatings, the other thing I did was to grind the ends of the springs flat. As supplied the springs are simply cut at the ends, it made a huge difference by grinding the ends to a taper. The spring on the left is the original as supplied, that on the right after I've tapered the ends, as illustrated it's a lot easier to get it sitting square on the seating.
So I've just used a wire loop as a temporary keeper plate to hold the axle boxes in. This is the current state of play.
So I've just used a wire loop as a temporary keeper plate to hold the axle boxes in. This is the current state of play.
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
Very nice indeed Adrian, I love the attention to detail here and the minor engineering adjustments make all the difference. Finished they look great, a massive improvement on the originals. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished article as it will be a lovely model, upgraded to present day standards expertly 
Serious modelling envy here, I'll keep watching flea bay 
Cheers Mick
Serious modelling envy here, I'll keep watching flea bay Cheers Mick
West Junction
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian
I have also made a pair of these JLTRT 9'.0" American bogies (not yet fully finished as I have temporarily left the steps off). I also found the folding of the etch awkward but managed to do it. I had no trouble with the bolster which fitted without any trouble. One thing I did do was hack off part of the back of the spring top castings so that they fitted around the cross bracing allowing the bottom casting to line up better with the two rivets in the compensation beam (were they originally made for the 8'.0" bogie?). These castings took a lot of fettling to allow the springing/compensation to work reasonably smoothly. My main reason for replying was the look of your springs which appear much more substantial and realistic than the ones supplied with my kits and just to confirm that yours were supplied from JLTRT.
You can also see from my photographs how much I have hacked off the back of the brake blocks to avoid them fouling the wheels. The wheels are from Roxey (no longer available). They are lovely wheels but the axles are on the large size and fouled the castings on the bogie frame. I therefore had to take the wheels off and turn down the axle to suit.
Peter
I have also made a pair of these JLTRT 9'.0" American bogies (not yet fully finished as I have temporarily left the steps off). I also found the folding of the etch awkward but managed to do it. I had no trouble with the bolster which fitted without any trouble. One thing I did do was hack off part of the back of the spring top castings so that they fitted around the cross bracing allowing the bottom casting to line up better with the two rivets in the compensation beam (were they originally made for the 8'.0" bogie?). These castings took a lot of fettling to allow the springing/compensation to work reasonably smoothly. My main reason for replying was the look of your springs which appear much more substantial and realistic than the ones supplied with my kits and just to confirm that yours were supplied from JLTRT.
You can also see from my photographs how much I have hacked off the back of the brake blocks to avoid them fouling the wheels. The wheels are from Roxey (no longer available). They are lovely wheels but the axles are on the large size and fouled the castings on the bogie frame. I therefore had to take the wheels off and turn down the axle to suit.
Peter
adrian
Flying Squad
To resurrect a long long dormant thread! For a couple of future projects I decided that I needed to clear some space in the 7mm erecting shop so this Christmas the project was to finish this siphon.
So the brake rigging was finished off and the bogies were given a coat of paint.
The photos managed to highlight one of the springs not sitting straight so that will have to be sorted. I also turned up a couple of brass bushes to sit in the white metal bolster.
So then I turned back to the main body, which involved fitting various etchings for hinges, footboards corner strapping etc. etc.
I just about managed to finish it last year but it's taken 4 days of cleaning scraping and burnishing to get it into a fit state for the paint shop. At times it felt like it was tarnishing quicker than I could clean it! At least with the 2mm modelling I can clean a wagon in an hour!!
Hopefully the paint shop stays warm enough to throw on a coat of etch primer before it tarnishes again so I reckon I have a 48hr window!
So the brake rigging was finished off and the bogies were given a coat of paint.
The photos managed to highlight one of the springs not sitting straight so that will have to be sorted. I also turned up a couple of brass bushes to sit in the white metal bolster.
So then I turned back to the main body, which involved fitting various etchings for hinges, footboards corner strapping etc. etc.
I just about managed to finish it last year but it's taken 4 days of cleaning scraping and burnishing to get it into a fit state for the paint shop. At times it felt like it was tarnishing quicker than I could clean it! At least with the 2mm modelling I can clean a wagon in an hour!!
Hopefully the paint shop stays warm enough to throw on a coat of etch primer before it tarnishes again so I reckon I have a 48hr window!
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Isambarduk
Western Thunderer
Well done, Adrian.
The Metalmodels Siphon F was my first attempt at an etched brass kit in the mid 70s (to be fair, there were not so many around then!) and I think it was a leader at the time.
It's travelled a few miles (on an extensive garden railway but also to the USA and back) and it could do with some touching in on the lettering but I doubt that I could make any better a fist of it today.
David
The Metalmodels Siphon F was my first attempt at an etched brass kit in the mid 70s (to be fair, there were not so many around then!) and I think it was a leader at the time.
It's travelled a few miles (on an extensive garden railway but also to the USA and back) and it could do with some touching in on the lettering but I doubt that I could make any better a fist of it today.
David
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Very nice and finished in Lake as well if my screen is not deceiving me. Please post a photo of the end of your model, I am interested to see how you have written the doors.
Isambarduk
Western Thunderer
Please post a photo of the end of your model, I am interested to see how you have written the doors.
Thank you. Yes, GWR Lake livery. I do not have a photo of the ends on file and the model is packed away at present* but I will take a photo for you. I doubt that I did anything extraordinary with the doors, though
* I am looking for suitable display cabinets, nothing fancy just sort of 800 x 800 x 100 with glass doors that may be removed or opened (not sliding that cannot be removed); any suggestions/recommendations?
David
Thank you. Yes, GWR Lake livery. I do not have a photo of the ends on file and the model is packed away at present* but I will take a photo for you. I doubt that I did anything extraordinary with the doors, though
* I am looking for suitable display cabinets, nothing fancy just sort of 800 x 800 x 100 with glass doors that may be removed or opened (not sliding that cannot be removed); any suggestions/recommendations?
David
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I'd be inclined to leave it and apply light weathering to make it appear well used commensurate with it's actual age and milage.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
And I was just about to say "that brown looks a weird shade"
Now where's me coat
Now where's me coat
Isambarduk
Western Thunderer
I don't do weathering! I am not really a railway modeller at all and I have never had a railway of my own but have relied on running powers offered by kind friends to give my models the occasional run. I am more of a model engineer so my models remain in the condition that they left the paint shop.
David