. . .
View attachment 196481My first outside cylinder, not counting the Kitmaster/Airfix ones. But this one works, and very sweetly too.
Thank you everyone for the ideas for this loco and for future models. I am especially glad I followed Alan's suggestion to fix the cylinder with a stud and a nut. This lets the cylinder find its own angle on the frames and the cylinder and slide bars can remain as a bolted subassembly to make painting easier.
I am doing more snagging than I had expected, starting with the left cylinder.
For some reason, my brass stud was free to turn in the casting, though it would not unscrew. I cannot remember how I secured these studs (probably 100 degree solder) but it has failed to hold.
I have dribbled Loctite 601 (green) onto the bottom of the stud, and this seems to be holding. I know, I shouldn't really be using Loctite anywhere on a model, but it is the only approach I could think of. Fingers crossed it will be permanent.
The cellulose paint has such a high gloss, the camera autofocus won't work. Amazing.
The drain cocks on the ash pan will be nearly invisible when the model is finished so here is a photo of them. The Slater's detail castings are of a very good standard. The handles are about 0.7 mm across, so I didn't think to look for mould release lines let alone try to remove them.
The rest of the chassis has gone back together with plenty of curses but everything is back where it was last December.
The four strips of copper-clad are here to hold wire pick-ups if I decide to give up on radio control.
The connecting rods are tapering inwards onto the big ends. I could pack out the crankpins with extra washers, but the big ends already look quite chunky. The tapering does not show from normal viewing angles, so it may be best to leave well alone.
At the moment, the final drive gear is loose on its axle but this chassis runs very sweetly as a push-along model. My best so far.