Weathered Locos & Stock

cmax

Western Thunderer

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Thank you very much Chaps,
Very kind.
The photo Michael, is point and shoot iPhone - nothing more. I’m constantly disappointed with my efforts on this front in truth.
Neil.
 

Buntobox

Active Member
Magnificent work Neil. I have an HO model of a German Class 01 4-6-2 kettle to weather and I'd like to ask how you achieved that wonderful oily sheen on the driving wheels and valve gear of that stunning Class 94 0-10-0 tank . It's just the best rendition of that effect I've ever seen.

Alan
Edinburgh
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Magnificent work Neil. I have an HO model of a German Class 01 4-6-2 kettle to weather and I'd like to ask how you achieved that wonderful oily sheen on the driving wheels and valve gear of that stunning Class 94 0-10-0 tank . It's just the best rendition of that effect I've ever seen.

Alan
Edinburgh
Thank you Alan,
Very kind.
I use oil paints, which have a slight natural sheen anyway due to their make up, but I also add Windsor&Newton Liquin medium to the mix (normally used for glazing when painting in oils on canvas) which has/adds a further sheen.
I apply this in thin layers until it builds up to the levels I’m after.
Hope that helps.
Best wishes,
Neil.
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Very impressive weathering on those Ellis Clark Presflow wagons any chance of an insight as to how you have achieved this excellent finish
Thank you for the kind words.
The process I used was to cover the whole wagon from the top down with a white-grey-cream oil paint wash. The wash was more intense at the top and receded as it went down the body. This was then wiped off - in the direction of gravity - to varying degrees, more so towards the bottom of the tank. Whilst the oil wash was still wet-tacky I gently added white-buff weathering powders to it very carefully. Also over the upward facing areas of the underframe and anywhere else the cement powder would adhere-get onto.
Hope that helps.
 
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Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Very nicely weathered (as I’d expect) but what on earth has happened to the shocvan? The body seems to float in mid air. Is it simply that the body is separated for weathering?

Adam
Hi Adam,
A total cop out by me, but my knowledge of wagons - in any detail - is embarrassingly poor.
I don’t know the vehicle well enough to know what’s going on with it, it’s how it came to me and it’s not separated for weathering purposes.
As you might see, the body sits on two girders above the main frame; no idea why, or if that’s correct or not.
Thanks for the compliment on the weathering.
 
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Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Love the flaking paint effect on the grey 7 plank. Is that a paint effect of post-painting distressing?
Thanks for the kind comments.
The wagon in question is a Dapol ex-PO one, so the paint job is already applied.
I over paint the planks and such with a near matched colour (acrylic) and then scratch back through -with a cocktail stick - to the original paint finish in the direction of the planking . For any bear wood, it’s the same process, in that I apply it - quite crudely really - then gently scratch back to the RTR surface until I’m happy with the effect. It’s then matt varnished, but not heavily as I don’t what to flatten all the effects I’ve tried hard to create.
Hope that’s useful.
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
I was shocked when I saw it! :))

Excellent weathering (as usual), Neil, but the “Presflo” buffers are the OLOE pneumatic type, so the rams (made of stainless steel I believe), should be nice and shiny.

Edit: Some OLOE buffers on a brake van….
View attachment 180497


Regards

Dan
Love the pun Dan .
Thank you for the kind comments and also the heads up with the buffer shanks.
It’s an area I tend to play down on models as I think it can look a bit garish (in this case in 7mm scale) but in this circumstance I shall correct it, thank you.
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
To be entirely honest I know nothing about the technicalities of' Shocvans' (or any other wagons for that matter) but having looked at the excellent work carried out on these models, and examined the close up quite carefully, may I, as a mere layman, offer the view that the body is so mounted to allow some 'to-and fro' movement along the underlying girders as part of it's shock-absorbing action in 'rough shunts' ? Hence the elevated appearance.
Just a thought ;) !

Roger
 
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