Weathered Locos & Stock

NewportRod

Western Thunderer
I hope this is okay but during the video I jotted down some notes the materials that Neill was using

Windsor and Newton Winton oil colours: titanium white, ivory black and raw umber; Artists oil colours Brown ochre and Indian red

Humbrol enamels Matt 160 Matt 33 Matt 119

Omen Miniatures Super-matt water-based modelling paint : underframe dirt, oily black and dirty black.

Vallejo pigments dark yellow ochre and natural oxide

Humbrol powder - Earth brown

Dry brush for axle boxes Ivory black

Roof Omen Miniatures worn tarmac
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Thanks Mike,
Really scratching the surface of what I make quite a complicated and in depth thing .
Neil.
Hi Neil

Did you use the same paints etc on the 4f as to what you used on the Dapol wagon? The finish you achieved on the 4f is brilliant and something I'd love to be able to emulate on my own locos.

Mike
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
That 4F really takes me back to my earlier days when I worked in Coalville, Leicestershire. The local shed, 17C, then altered firstly to 15D and finally to 15E, was always well stocked with these every-day workers, both those allocated there and others from far and near. I had the pleasure of an unofficial footplate trip from Coalville East to Shepshed on one and discovered first hand how draughty it was when travelling tender first! Once again a beautifully rendered reproduction of a very well-known otherwise mundane class.

Roger.
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
That 4F really takes me back to my earlier days when I worked in Coalville, Leicestershire. The local shed, 17C, then altered firstly to 15D and finally to 15E, was always well stocked with these every-day workers, both those allocated there and others from far and near. I had the pleasure of an unofficial footplate trip from Coalville East to Shepshed on one and discovered first hand how draughty it was when travelling tender first! Once again a beautifully rendered reproduction of a very well-known otherwise mundane class.

Roger.
Thank you Roger.
 

Arun Sharma

Western Thunderer
Another ‘work horse’ weathering job completed, only a much larger loco this time; another Lee Marsh 9F.
I’ve said it before but it’s a real pleasure to work on such a superb model.
I’ve really enjoyed adding the many varied textures and tones to the model. All were copied directly from one main reference.View attachment 175263View attachment 175265View attachment 175264View attachment 175266View attachment 175267View attachment 175268View attachment 175269View attachment 175270
That looks awfully like a real engine to me - are you sure you haven't mixed up the pics of the model and the prototype?
 

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Hi Neil, I had to go back and watch the video after looking ad this newest loco, you make the work look so easy but like everything, I can see that you have spent many hours doing this work and you skill level at this art is exceptional. thanks for sharing some of it with us.

Michael
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Very kind of you Both, thank you.

It helps Michael that I had a ‘career’ painting on canvas before this and so from a very young child until now, I’ve gained a great deal of experience with colour, tone and texture.
I’m now applying it to 3 dimensional things but using the same ways of looking - and actually painting - as I did on canvas.
It also helps that the canvas - in this case a wonderful Lee Marsh model - is such a great starting point.
 

Renovater

Western Thunderer
The weathering on that 9F is about the best i've ever seen, incredible job. It's as close to the real thing that anyones going to get. Thanks for posting. Cheers.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Another wonderful project, Neil.

May I enquire as to how you achieved the ‘mottled’ effect around the windows, boiler, rods and under frame etc, please?

I’m guessing you stippled it with a brush, if so, which type? Perhaps you cut the ends off the bristles to create a fan effect which I’ve tried myself in the past? Is the medium paint or powder? If paint, I’m guessing most of the paint has to be removed from the brush before application; if powder, I’m plumping for it being applied in liquid form, either mixed with water or thinners?

Apologies for all the questions, and of course, as you’re a commercial ‘weatherer’, I’ll understand if you’re reluctant to be quite so specific about your methods, but I’m always curious about those employed by other modellers.

Cheers.

jonte
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Thank you All for your very kind comments.
Another wonderful project, Neil.

May I enquire as to how you achieved the ‘mottled’ effect around the windows, boiler, rods and under frame etc, please?

I’m guessing you stippled it with a brush, if so, which type? Perhaps you cut the ends off the bristles to create a fan effect which I’ve tried myself in the past? Is the medium paint or powder? If paint, I’m guessing most of the paint has to be removed from the brush before application; if powder, I’m plumping for it being applied in liquid form, either mixed with water or thinners?

Apologies for all the questions, and of course, as you’re a commercial ‘weatherer’, I’ll understand if you’re reluctant to be quite so specific about your methods, but I’m always curious about those employed by other modellers.

Cheers.

jonte
The effect around the cab windows etc Jonte is all done with paint layers.
Around the windows are about three layers;
I apply a coat of grime, in oils, then wipe most of it off. Whilst wet/tacky with a soft small brush I lay weathering powders over the top - but faintly - they adhere to the paint. I then - in this case because the loco is pretty clean - add a further layer of black (base colour of the loco, oils) but dry brushed, so it doesn’t obliterate all areas previously weathered.
The chassis is over sprayed by airbrush with a base colour (I use a lot of Humbrol 32 and 98). Before this dries - or dries in its entirety - I apply weathering powders, stippled as you suggested, into the airbrushed paint. After that, due to chassis being generally filthy, once dry I add further paint, over those previous layers; much, I guess, as would happen in real life.
To add another chassis grime layer I will flick it over (dry brush) with a very dry either black or weathering colour mix just to highlight areas and therefore add another visual element.
Hope this helps.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Thank you All for your very kind comments.

The effect around the cab windows etc Jonte is all done with paint layers.
Around the windows are about three layers;
I apply a coat of grime, in oils, then wipe most of it off. Whilst wet/tacky with a soft small brush I lay weathering powders over the top - but faintly - they adhere to the paint. I then - in this case because the loco is pretty clean - add a further layer of black (base colour of the loco, oils) but dry brushed, so it doesn’t obliterate all areas previously weathered.
The chassis is over sprayed by airbrush with a base colour (I use a lot of Humbrol 32 and 98). Before this dries - or dries in its entirety - I apply weathering powders, stippled as you suggested, into the airbrushed paint. After that, due to chassis being generally filthy, once dry I add further paint, over those previous layers; much, I guess, as would happen in real life.
To add another chassis grime layer I will flick it over (dry brush) with a very dry either black or weathering colour mix just to highlight areas and therefore add another visual element.
Hope this helps.
Many thanks, Neil, for sharing and for a most comprehensive account.

Very interesting, especially with regard to the ‘layering’, which, whilst protracted, can be appreciated in the ‘Senior Scales’.

Wonderful stuff.

Thanks once again,

Jon
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Merry Christmas All
One of two weathering jobs I completed before the ‘big day’; a Lee Marsh Dean Goods in Edwardian livery.
Every surface of this model has been treated-weathered. Of course, much of that weathering has been ‘cleaned’ then the surfaces buffed to give the effect(s) you see here.
I say it every time, but it is an exceptional RTR model and a treat to work on.D063D849-104C-44C2-A644-3CE1841ED68E.jpeg
5D67EA6F-F6DB-4811-ADC3-FCC4FCDA4B48.jpeg
 
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