Amanda's Workshop: Scratchbuilding Toward A Layout
- Thread starter WM183
- Start date
simond
Western Thunderer
The geometry of Peco points gives a radius a bit less than the 6’ that you’d expect. I did measure one once but can’t recall the number.
In any case, I reckon that a 13xx will do that with ease, with just running clearances between wheels and chassis. If you can hang on til mid week, I’ll measure mine and confirm.
In any case, I reckon that a 13xx will do that with ease, with just running clearances between wheels and chassis. If you can hang on til mid week, I’ll measure mine and confirm.
WM183
Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon. I can swap out the little thrust washers easy enough, in any event. Slater's wheels are so nice for this. I'll go for perhaps .5mm or so on the front (compensated) axles and .3 or so on the rear fixed axle. I have enough clearance between my wheels and brake shoes, and have faced the shoes with .010 plasticard besides. Running clearance "plus" feels good. I am curious what yours are set to though, when you get round tuit.
simond
Western Thunderer
Sure, no problem. @davey4270 is also building a couple. He might be able to offer some insight.
WM183
Western Thunderer
The chassis has been assembled for the final time, with pickups installed and the motor and gearbox fitted. It runs, and it runs wonderfully; quiet and smooth, forward and backward, and with the nearly 1kg weight of this thing, it pulls like a 20 mule team. The care I took in adding brass bushes to the rods so that the brass rod "ends" ride on the Slater's brass bushings with a floating fit drive the coupled wheels paid off. I didn't have a good place to put scratcher pickups on the rear axle, so used some push-buttons there, and it seems just fine. This engine will get DCC and a keep alive capacitor bank too, and will hopefully run for many many years to come.
I still am waiting on a few final parts to finish the body off; etched numberplates, handrail knobs, and a new chimney and safety valve cover. The kit came with cotter pins to use as handrail knobs and at this point, there's no way I am making that particular compromise. I will probably number it as 1370 or 1371, just because I like those numbers! Oh, I guess I need to make a bell too, as these engines had a bell.
7mm | Springside Models in this list, would no 42, the "14xx Chimney" and 47a, "GWR safety valve to suit Dean goods, 57xx" be the correct bits? I will get fire irons and lamps from Springside as well.
I still am waiting on a few final parts to finish the body off; etched numberplates, handrail knobs, and a new chimney and safety valve cover. The kit came with cotter pins to use as handrail knobs and at this point, there's no way I am making that particular compromise. I will probably number it as 1370 or 1371, just because I like those numbers! Oh, I guess I need to make a bell too, as these engines had a bell.
7mm | Springside Models in this list, would no 42, the "14xx Chimney" and 47a, "GWR safety valve to suit Dean goods, 57xx" be the correct bits? I will get fire irons and lamps from Springside as well.
WM183
Western Thunderer
The ultimate goal for the little pannier tank is to operate on a layout themed somewhere around a sleepy seaside wharf, not unlike Weymouth, but where the GWR handles the goods to the docks, and the SR handles the passenger service - such as it is, usually consisting of a single brake third - and parcels. While not particularly profitable for either company even pre-nationalisation, neither wanted to abandon service and allow the rival company to have full domain over the line. Due to years of deferred maintenance, the line is off-limits to all but the lightest locomotives either company operates - an old 1366 tank for the GWR, and a little Terrier tank for the SR, though the Terrier sometimes switches off for a shiny new class 2 2-6-2 tank, or perhaps an Adams radial. Since nationalisation, a successful petition by the residents of the town - West Sothesquay is a working name, but suggestions for a name appreciated! - as well as simply escaping Beeching's hawkish gaze has let the line carry on. The little tank engines, their Big 4 livery having been exchanged for BR(W) and BR(S) livery, soldier on, wheezing and clanking away, and life goes on much as it always has here.
The location is "somewhere west of Southampton" and the time is summer, the busy period for the line. Folks eager to avoid the summer crowds further west or east come here for a day of sea air, a chance at a feisty mackerel on a rod and reel, or for a number of specialty shops along the waterfront street. A draw for boatnerds (as we called them on the Great Lakes) is the surprisingly busy wharf, where not only do packet and bulk freighters from the islands call, but so do loads of Baltic timber from time to time, laden with timbers and pit props for mines further west, as well as daily catches of fish destined for local tables and local tummies.
Eventually the layout will consist of three Ikea "Lack" shelves, of the 120 x 40 cm size. I have an industrial shelf bracket system thing in my workshop to support a layout of this size already when it's at home, though I do hope to exhibit sometime. One board will serve as the fiddle yard, and two the scenery. The various ships will be waterline models that can be switched out, allowing the stock switched by the goods engine to match whatever sort of vessels are docked at the time.
I will use Peco track - building track is among my least favorite pastimes - but I will probably modify the points to allow more, uh, prototypical operation than just pokey finger, but who knows.
The location is "somewhere west of Southampton" and the time is summer, the busy period for the line. Folks eager to avoid the summer crowds further west or east come here for a day of sea air, a chance at a feisty mackerel on a rod and reel, or for a number of specialty shops along the waterfront street. A draw for boatnerds (as we called them on the Great Lakes) is the surprisingly busy wharf, where not only do packet and bulk freighters from the islands call, but so do loads of Baltic timber from time to time, laden with timbers and pit props for mines further west, as well as daily catches of fish destined for local tables and local tummies.
Eventually the layout will consist of three Ikea "Lack" shelves, of the 120 x 40 cm size. I have an industrial shelf bracket system thing in my workshop to support a layout of this size already when it's at home, though I do hope to exhibit sometime. One board will serve as the fiddle yard, and two the scenery. The various ships will be waterline models that can be switched out, allowing the stock switched by the goods engine to match whatever sort of vessels are docked at the time.
I will use Peco track - building track is among my least favorite pastimes - but I will probably modify the points to allow more, uh, prototypical operation than just pokey finger, but who knows.
Last edited:
simond
Western Thunderer
I just had a quick look at my 13xx, there is rather more clearance than I think is necessary, it’s probably around 0.4-0.45mm, but rather difficult to measure due to the pickups.
I haven’t tried a minimum radius, if I get the chance I’ll try a Peco settrack point on Thursday
hth
Simon
I haven’t tried a minimum radius, if I get the chance I’ll try a Peco settrack point on Thursday
hth
Simon
WM183
Western Thunderer
Thank you Simon. I'm right around .4mm on all axles.
Meanwhile, the Netherlands has decided that even though eBay collects VAT on purchases, I now get to pay an "Inklaringskost" on all packages from outside the EU to "declare the packages for me". I bought one of the "Midland Engines" monographs by Hunt, Essery, and James (Class 2 Superheated 4-4-0s to be precise) on ebay for 16,99 pounds... roughly 20 euro - and paid VAT. I just got an invoice from postNL for 10 euro.
Sigh.
Meanwhile, the Netherlands has decided that even though eBay collects VAT on purchases, I now get to pay an "Inklaringskost" on all packages from outside the EU to "declare the packages for me". I bought one of the "Midland Engines" monographs by Hunt, Essery, and James (Class 2 Superheated 4-4-0s to be precise) on ebay for 16,99 pounds... roughly 20 euro - and paid VAT. I just got an invoice from postNL for 10 euro.
Sigh.
WM183
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,
I guess it's just further impetus to learn to make as much as I can in-house. I hope to be able to use my lathe and my 3d printer, along with a good ol piercing saw, to make basically everything save wheels and gearboxes at home, and I could *probably* eventually even do those. I do need books of drawings though, so will just grit my teeth and bear it for now.
And I think it will be fine too! It's such a relief to see it run so well after the agony this project has caused. I just need a few final bits to arrive!
I guess it's just further impetus to learn to make as much as I can in-house. I hope to be able to use my lathe and my 3d printer, along with a good ol piercing saw, to make basically everything save wheels and gearboxes at home, and I could *probably* eventually even do those. I do need books of drawings though, so will just grit my teeth and bear it for now.
And I think it will be fine too! It's such a relief to see it run so well after the agony this project has caused. I just need a few final bits to arrive!
davey4270
Western Thunderer
? Not sure what is being asked here.
WM183
Western Thunderer
The question was about clearance between frames and wheels. I built my 1366 and it has about .4mm of clearance or side play and I was wondering if this was enough. Simon said you are also building this type.
WM183
Western Thunderer
Today was the day I decided to put the wheels, rods, and so on in the Jinty chassis I have been building. I need to get longer crankpin bushes for this; the High Level rods are made of 3 layers, and the standard bush is just too short. The long ones have a bit of extra that I can file down. However, in the meantime, I can fit the pickups, but wow there's not much real estate here to work with! I think I am gonna try to mount a strip of copperclad inside the sides of the firebox and pick up the rear 2 axles from there. Seem workable?
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hello @WM183
Nice work. Not many places to place pick ups, are there? It’s at moments like this that split axles begin to look attractive…. I’d agree that the only place seems to be above the axle. Unless you can make some wire busbars that run under the axles, and add wipers to those?
Three layers for coupling rods? Crumbs. Two’s enough for me. I think Gibson do extended bushes.
Cheers
Jan