Building an MMP RMB - a box of delights

djparkins

Western Thunderer
All those exclamations marks... please calm down David, there are WTers who are waiting for future MMP releases and none of us want you to suffer from medical conditions which might result from Mk.1 hysteria ;) .

Graham -

The time for really heavy use of exclaimation marks is if I see your phone number coming up on the caller ID display!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is then I know I'm really in for it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, I've gone way past hysteria with this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
A quick update, after the jollity!

It has been agreed that the gangways, which are designed to work almost exactly like the real thing, don't need to be made functional if it makes things easier. Of course, this means they may well end up functional anyway, because that's how they've been designed. :bowdown:

Meanwhile, some hackery is occurring below the underframe buffer beams in order to allow access to the fixing nuts for the body. Some chump went and added a load of extra pipework in the way, didn't she! :rolleyes:
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Hi Tom.

Just looked at this site - not one I've seen before. There's some really interesting stuff on there.

This is probably a very sill question, but will the tip of the pick up pen melt in the presence of heat, ie a soldering iron. I guess it will, but it'll still be useful for those bits which have to be glued in place. Especially useful, I suspect, for builds like the Slaters Milk Tanks. Need I say more?

Brian
Hi Brian,

Can't say I've used it for holding bits in place to be soldered but I suspect it'd melt. Very good for gluing though.

Cheers
Tom
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
29 years ago I did that last! (5 or 6 white shirts & blouses + 1 random red sock = PINK)

Sorry for the brief excursion Heather...
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
No need for apologies. We've all done it. Happily, most of my clothes are now so old there's no dye left in the dark colours to worry about!

Back at the bench, today's lesson is to not only read the instructions, but understand them. :oops: :headbang:

I've been merrily applying all the lovely fiddly bits to the ends of the coach. Something was nagging away at the back of my mind, something about closing all the joints with solder. Something that finally made its way to the front of my mind.

I should have fitted the ends to the coach body BEFORE applying all the fiddly bits.

What a nitwit.

Anyway, having come this far, who am I to give it all up as a bad job? The ends are now fitted, and mostly fettled (final filling of the body joins will be Squadron putty), using a low temperature solder and a cool iron. Only one detail succumbed, and it hadn't been properly attached to begin with.

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Lesson learned. I am now going to read some more of the instructions, very carefully.
 

djparkins

Western Thunderer
The ends are now fitted, and mostly fettled (final filling of the body joins will be Squadron putty)

Heather -

One idea if I might - and I DO realise this might not be to everyones liking!

Especially with flush sided stock like Mk.1s or Bulleids - I have always made the corner joints by soldering on the OUTSIDE of the coach, using hot tape as a safety barrier. This way you only get minimal solder on the inside [looks like you have acheived that nicely anyway] but you then have a good seam of solder you can 'dress' to make that nice radius so characteristic of Mk.1 stock - no filler required, as the solder does that job too.

Regards,

DJP
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
This way you only get minimal solder on the inside [looks like you have acheived that nicely anyway] but you then have a good seam of solder you can 'dress' to make that nice radius so characteristic of Mk.1 stock - no filler required, as the solder does that job too.

Thanks, David. I had intended to solder from the outside, and I nearly made it. Due to my stupidity, I found it easier to run the fillet inside the body, with some on the outside as filler. If I'd done it the right way round to start with… I will probably scrape back a little of the fillet to ensure there are no clearance issues later.

John, I don't normally do requests but as you asked so nicely on the phone just now… ;)

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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Slow progress, again. I've started fitting out the gangways, which involves adding some suspension/spring parts to the underframe drawbar.

Again, some chump has been adding pipework that gets in the way, but nothing a little work with a file didn't cure.

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Here's one end, with the first couple of gangway parts attached to the body end, and the suspension brackets in place.

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While we are upside down, you can see the surgery I had to do to give me access to the body/roof fixing nuts. Even now, it's a good ten minutes of fiddle to get them on. The split washers mean it's not necessary to tighten the nuts right down, which is a godsend.

The reason for fitting the body, apart from the exercise in vocabulary extension, is to ensure the drawbar suspension thingies align properly.

I'm off to take the body off again to begin fitting the rest of the gangway bits!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Not helped by being encumbered with a four-day cold, picked up from RailEx, I think, the body shell very nearly undertook a test flight across the room today.

Gangways. I know they're fiddly. There are some very small parts. I found another thing where I'd forgotten to read the instructions properly. Grr.

Anyway, I got some framework attached to the gangway bases, no thanks to glue that didn't and solder that wouldn't. Not my finest hour.

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I am currently stumped by how to glue the fabric material, which makes up the flexible part of the gangway, to the brass frame. Knowing how this model will be rostered with coaches from A N Other manufacturer, I am seriously thinking of missing this step out. (Sorry, David.)
 

djparkins

Western Thunderer
I am currently stumped by how to glue the fabric material, which makes up the flexible part of the gangway, to the brass frame. Knowing how this model will be rostered with coaches from A N Other manufacturer, I am seriously thinking of missing this step out. (Sorry, David.)

Evo-Stik trapped between the brass parts.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Evo-Stik trapped between the brass parts.

That would probably do it. I was, with my cold-addled brain, struggling to work out the trapping mechanism. You have clarified it nicely, thank you. :thumbs:

Further work will have to wait until next week. As of now, I am on holiday until Monday. Best Beloved and I are heading down to the West Country, to deliver a 5700 to its new owner, and to spend a couple of days with my parents in Dorset. If the weather cheers up, we might take in a trip on the Swanage line.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
While on our trip on the Swanage Railway - thoroughly recommended if you're ever down that neck of the woods, by the way - I made it my mission to get detail photos of some of the Mk1 coaches the line runs. Particular attention was paid to gangways, as well as interior fittings.

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BR Mk1 details by Snaptophobic, on Flickr

Having assessed where I'd got to before the trip, I was pleased to note I had got further than I thought. I trimmed out the flexible material, scored it carefully with the back of a scalpel blade, and folded it so it could be trapped in a brass etch sandwich. Just like the real thing, only without the working bolts.

A smear of Evo-Stik on the brass gangway frame, and some careful poking with a pair of tweezers, and the material was in place. Having done both sides of both ends, I let things mull for a while as my brain tried to work out how to do the same fixing routine on the outer plate of the gangway.

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Today, I made a decision to break the back of the gangway construction, if not actually complete it. The outer plates are made of various parts, and needed only a little attention with the RSU to get to a point where I could begin to work out how to put it all together.

You probably don't need reminding that the kit's designer has tried to be as faithful to the prototype as possible within the limits of the materials at hand. While it can be fiddly, and sometimes frustrating, the results are worth the effort. The thing is, sometimes you have to be pragmatic about things. Let me explain…

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You may recall earlier I fitted the gangway support spring doodads to the buffer beams. These cast rams are supposed to attach to the gangway outer plate assembly, and slide into the spring supports. Just like the prototype. Incidentally, castings have to be trimmed so they clear the body fixing bolts, and I worked out a length of 11mm is sufficient. Now, I don't plan on attaching the frames to the body until the main painting has been completed. This means the gangway outer plates have to be left loose, because once they're attached, you can't really take the body off again. I could leave the lower spring rams out completely - I'd wager almost no-one would even notice. What I've decided to do is glue them into the buffer beam parts, and not attach them to the end plates. That way, the end plates can be fixed to the gangways proper, leaving the body free to be removed.

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Anyway, after some soldering, and some gluing, here's where we are. The outer plate here is not attached at the moment, but I've posed it to show how it all looks. Very effective, I have to say.
 
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