Genghis's 7mm Workbench

G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Next up is an LNWR D216 50' Arc roof centre brake composite. I have a soft s[pot for this kit as it was the first new design we commissioned after taking over the business. We persuaded Adrian Rowland to blow the cobwebs off his computer and this kit appeared. As always with Adrian's designs, the parts fit. Final detailing will be done post painting.

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it will split into parts for painting, with the bogies, underframe and floor, body sides, interior and roof as separate items.

I fancy a Peckett next. When I was driving at the Middleton Railway, the Peckett was my favourite loco. Easy to fire and drive.

David
 
LarryG

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Genghis said:
Next up is an LNWR D216 50' Arc roof centre brake composite. I have a soft s[pot for this kit as it was the first new design we commissioned after taking over the business. We persuaded Adrian Rowland to blow the cobwebs off his computer and this kit appeared. As always with Adrian's designs, the parts fit. Final detailing will be done post painting.

David
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Agreed. Adrian is top man for design whether it be 4mm/7mm coaches or 7mm locomotives.

That is a particularly attractive LNWR coach. Some of the final arc roof corridor coaches were running on M&GN lines.
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
By way of introduction, try this:


Next up is the Eric Underhill Peckett. It certainly is a Time Warp for me: screw together frames and whitemetal parts for most of the rest. However, there is a nice resin boiler/tank unit and the whitemetal castings are superb. It has been a very long time since I have had the pleasure (!) of soldering large whitemetal lumps together. Not helped by my Antec low temperature soldering iron giving up the ghost. I think that since they moved production to China, quality has fallen off a cliff. I didn't trust myself to use my 80W iron that I usually use out here so I have tried to buy a cheap soldering station. (I have an Ersa at home but don't pack that in the suitcase). The £70 one is out of stock at a local store but they are trying to get one for Monday. As a short solution I spent £7 on a 20W iron and that is OK for now.

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G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
I have to admit that this little kit has stumped me. Nothing wrong with the kit, I just cannot get a solid soldered joint between the components. I have been using my flux of choice (from Building O gauge online) and have also tried a vicious cocktail bought from a local branch of B and Q. Two types of 70 degree solder, but I am still not happy. I have ordered some Carrs yellow flux and some 100 degree solder to pick up at Guildex so I'll have another go then.

Since taking the photo, the rear buffer beam dropped off, as did the front spectacle plate when I added the resin boiler/tank assembly. I have refitted the spectacle plate but all attempts with the buffer beam are fruitless, despite wire brushing the surfaces to ensure they are clean and adding the fluxes. So I'll move onto something else. The Jersey Lily I think. I built one of these before (as a C5) so should get on OK with this.

David
 
Deano747

Deano747

Western Thunderer
simond said:
David

It's anathema to some folks but for soldering whitemetal (and lead) there is nothing to touch it in my view - I never use anything else.

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It does want a good scrub in not-too-hot water afterwards.
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Hi Simon
Where is your source for this flux as I've tried several local plumbing supplies with no luck?! (Not yet tried on-line though!)

Regards, Rob.
 
JimG

JimG

Western Thunderer
I've been using Neale's Mild Telux flux for years and it works extremely well.


Several years ago my tin of Fluxite ran out and I couldn't source any more and I started working my way through the fluxes available at my local B&Q. I found that Powerflux and Laco left an oxidising layer which wasn't a great problem with soldering on models, where you could clean and wash parts easily after soldering. But it was a problem for track laying and wiring where cleaning and washing was not practical. I remember one layout where the joints from rail to busbars underneath all turned bright green after a short while. :) I then found the Telux flux and it left no oxidising residues. In fact I soldered up a test underframe for a coach using the flux and didn't clean after soldering and left it around to see what might happen. That was back in the 1990s and that underframe is still lying around with no oxidisation. :)

Jim.
 
L

Longbow

Western Thunderer
As always the flux safety sheets are quite revealing.

Fry's is based on hydrochloric acid, an aggressive flux more usually associated with harder metals. That would tally with effective fluxing but with more clean-up required.

Both La-Co and Templers are ammonium chloride based fluxes most often used with copper, but the latter is less concentrated which may explain its reduced oxidation effects.
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Guildex provided me with an opportunity to pick up some flux and solder. Which reminds me: a big 'Thank you' to Richard Lambert for the recommendation regarding 100 solder. It is good stuff. Anyway, despite that much of the Pecket had to be assembled using glue. Many small whitemetal castings made soldering too risky. Anyway it's off to Paul the painter now.

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My plan to do the Jersey Lily fell by the wayside and I built 3 more LNWR 50' carriages instead. Forgot to take photos but I'll take some when Warren has finished with them.

Dave
 
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